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Help Jumpstarting?
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Help Jumpstarting?
Hi i have got a diesel mq patrol, its dual battery and my aux battery has gone flat therefore i canot start my truck, i have got one of the 1200amp portable jumpstarters and do i just hook that up to the aux battery to get it going again, by the way its a 24 volt system
thanks benny
thanks benny
AFAIK, if you've got a 24v system, and your "auxilary" battery is flat - your stuffed. Reason: it isn't an auxilary battery - its half of your actual system. Flattening one battery is a really good way to stuff up the other good one all in one hit (the good one will equalise to the crappy one).
In your position, i would probably disconnect BOTH batteries, put them both on a charger for a day or overnight, then try to start it. You'll probly find that hooking your jumper pack onto the dead battery wont crank the motor over well enough, as the other will be half flat too.
If you have enough power to glow the plugs, you could always roll start it...
Coxy
In your position, i would probably disconnect BOTH batteries, put them both on a charger for a day or overnight, then try to start it. You'll probly find that hooking your jumper pack onto the dead battery wont crank the motor over well enough, as the other will be half flat too.
If you have enough power to glow the plugs, you could always roll start it...
Coxy
if your primary battery is fully charged (how do you know?) then you should be able to hook your jump start pack to the flat (auxilarry) battery and start the car
however
as you now have one flat battery, and one charged one. The altenator will push current through BOTH batteries tryting to charge the flat one. This will kill your good, fully charged battery very quickly.
The only way to fix your problem, is to charge both batteries seperately, then put them back in car, and hit the starter.
any other way will just end up killing a battery, if they arent already stuffed.
however
as you now have one flat battery, and one charged one. The altenator will push current through BOTH batteries tryting to charge the flat one. This will kill your good, fully charged battery very quickly.
The only way to fix your problem, is to charge both batteries seperately, then put them back in car, and hit the starter.
any other way will just end up killing a battery, if they arent already stuffed.
Generally with a 24v sysem you will need the two for things to work "as normal". On a 24v system, if you have one good battery, and one flat battery, generally the bad battery will actually pull down the good one, leaving you with two half dead batteries.
Best bet is to either a) disconnect the leads off the dead one and recharge it; b) just stick your jump starter pack onto the dead batteries terminals and start it. Either way it should work.
Coxy
Best bet is to either a) disconnect the leads off the dead one and recharge it; b) just stick your jump starter pack onto the dead batteries terminals and start it. Either way it should work.
Coxy
I think this is incorrect. It will just fail to charge the weak battery.Shadow wrote:as you now have one flat battery, and one charged one. The altenator will push current through BOTH batteries tryting to charge the flat one. This will kill your good, fully charged battery very quickly.
But this I agree with anyway. I just think it's the weak battery that will die, not the strong one.The only way to fix your problem, is to charge both batteries seperately, then put them back in car, and hit the starter.
any other way will just end up killing a battery, if they arent already stuffed.
This is not legal advice.
ill tell you exactly what to do, as for some time i had a fair bit of trouble here...
firstly, to jump start you car, put you jumper leads on the PASSENGER side battery, this is the one closest to the starter motor, so the current wont have to travel as far.
2ndly, you can either drive the vehicle (or at least keep it around 1800 revs) for about 2 hours, your dead battery will charge fully (if it doesnt, its dead beyond repair. get a new one). OR you can dissconect it and charge it on a charger overnight.
the good thing about this vehicle is, once its started, it doesnt need power to run. so in theory you could take your battery out and put it onto charge while your driving about (dont larf, iv driven my mq about for a week with no batteries )
firstly, to jump start you car, put you jumper leads on the PASSENGER side battery, this is the one closest to the starter motor, so the current wont have to travel as far.
2ndly, you can either drive the vehicle (or at least keep it around 1800 revs) for about 2 hours, your dead battery will charge fully (if it doesnt, its dead beyond repair. get a new one). OR you can dissconect it and charge it on a charger overnight.
the good thing about this vehicle is, once its started, it doesnt need power to run. so in theory you could take your battery out and put it onto charge while your driving about (dont larf, iv driven my mq about for a week with no batteries )
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
I would disconnect the flat battery, hook up the jumper pack to these terminals and try to start the car, then I would just reconnect the terminals after started. This would stop the flat battery trying to charge off the starter pack.
With these types of systems do the batteries seperate when the car is switched off? Otherwise I can't reelly see how you could have one flat and one fully charged system in when they are connected in series.
With these types of systems do the batteries seperate when the car is switched off? Otherwise I can't reelly see how you could have one flat and one fully charged system in when they are connected in series.
My Cruiser is Environmentally Friendly.
It runs on recycled Dinosaurs.
It runs on recycled Dinosaurs.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
The voltage regulator will want 24Volts in the system.......chimpboy wrote:I think this is incorrect. It will just fail to charge the weak battery.Shadow wrote:as you now have one flat battery, and one charged one. The altenator will push current through BOTH batteries tryting to charge the flat one. This will kill your good, fully charged battery very quickly.
seeing that one is apparently good and holding 12volts, the other "aux battery", may because of drainage have as low as 4volts showing.......
a total of 16 volts which means that the voltage regulator will continue to add charge to both batteries untill 24 volts ( its actually 28volts in a MQ system ) is shown thus charging the 'flat battery' and over charging the 'good battery'.
Whilst the flat one is getting what it needs the good one will be boil dry due to the excesive current unless its fluid level isnt watched very carefully.
Basically you over cook the good battery whilst trying to revive the not so good battery..... the end result is usually 2 dead batteries.
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
God of Magnificant Ideas!
No.Chucky wrote: With these types of systems do the batteries seperate when the car is switched off?
The system is a full 24Volt system.
A 12volt 'feed' is available only for the radio.
as is often the case, ppl "add" too many 12volt appliances to one of the batteries instead of 'sharing' the load/drain.Chucky wrote:Otherwise I can't reelly see how you could have one flat and one fully charged system in when they are connected in series.
add in a set or two of driving lights, CB &/or UHF + stereo, etc to one battery and the drawn current load becomes unequal...... forget to switch off the appliances overnight and that battery will loose enough to start the problem off.
I've seen a 12volt LPG system alone stuff one of a 24volt systems batteries it was connected to in less than 3 months of operation, when the battery was replaced the new battery lasted 4 months before it began to give trouble...... the problem was that a 12volt 'working light' was also draining from the same battery.
Once the system was equalised and both batteries had a 12 volt draw from them they lasted the 'normal lifetime'.
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
Clarify one thing in your mind:
You do NOT have an "auxiliary" battery
You have a 24 volt system. Any attempt at running 12v appliances (driving lights, doof doof stereos, etc) off the "lower" battery will result in the batteries being mismatched and will result in one (the lower one) recieving the heavier charge it needs at the expense of the other (upper one) that will need to be consistantly overcharged to fulfil the requirements of the lower one.
The other option is that the lower battery never gets the charge it needs.
Very easy and quick way to kill 1 or 2 batteries.
You do NOT have an "auxiliary" battery
You have a 24 volt system. Any attempt at running 12v appliances (driving lights, doof doof stereos, etc) off the "lower" battery will result in the batteries being mismatched and will result in one (the lower one) recieving the heavier charge it needs at the expense of the other (upper one) that will need to be consistantly overcharged to fulfil the requirements of the lower one.
The other option is that the lower battery never gets the charge it needs.
Very easy and quick way to kill 1 or 2 batteries.
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
I thought i pointed that out earlier, but i spose this will make it a bit clearer for him.DAMKIA wrote:Clarify one thing in your mind:
You do NOT have an "auxiliary" battery
Coxy
PS. My old auto elec boss always said to me, "When sh!t goes wrong with 24volt systems, it happens twice as fast, and twice as bad".
whats the point of the 24V system then, Is it because the wires are running half the current and therfore half the heat loss? Seems pretty trivial reason for all the extra effort
If your appliances are running off 1 battery, why not just run two 12V in parallel?
Did you have to get a 24V alternator and starter too?
If your appliances are running off 1 battery, why not just run two 12V in parallel?
Did you have to get a 24V alternator and starter too?
At first I thought it was a sea anemone, upon closer inspection I realised it was a funky ball of tits from outer space.
they come like that from factorycruiser60series wrote:whats the point of the 24V system then, Is it because the wires are running half the current and therfore half the heat loss? Seems pretty trivial reason for all the extra effort
If your appliances are running off 1 battery, why not just run two 12V in parallel?
Did you have to get a 24V alternator and starter too?
everything is 24v
the reason is as you said, lower current for same power, means smaller wires, and less heat.
Spot on. I have a 24v MQ for the farm car, and its a complete PITA cause whenever you want to use it your guaranteed that some pr!ck has "borrowed" one of the two batteries.Shadow wrote:they come like that from factorycruiser60series wrote:whats the point of the 24V system then, Is it because the wires are running half the current and therfore half the heat loss? Seems pretty trivial reason for all the extra effort
If your appliances are running off 1 battery, why not just run two 12V in parallel?
Did you have to get a 24V alternator and starter too?
everything is 24v
the reason is as you said, lower current for same power, means smaller wires, and less heat.
Coxy
lock it?coxy321 wrote:Spot on. I have a 24v MQ for the farm car, and its a complete PITA cause whenever you want to use it your guaranteed that some pr!ck has "borrowed" one of the two batteries.Shadow wrote:they come like that from factorycruiser60series wrote:whats the point of the 24V system then, Is it because the wires are running half the current and therfore half the heat loss? Seems pretty trivial reason for all the extra effort
If your appliances are running off 1 battery, why not just run two 12V in parallel?
Did you have to get a 24V alternator and starter too?
everything is 24v
the reason is as you said, lower current for same power, means smaller wires, and less heat.
Coxy
He obviously needs a bit of knowledge, because the initial post states he has a dual battery system, where it really isn't in the sense of seperate starting batteries and batteries to run accessories off and also the comment about being an auxillary battery.coxy321 wrote:I thought i pointed that out earlier, but i spose this will make it a bit clearer for him.DAMKIA wrote:Clarify one thing in your mind:
You do NOT have an "auxiliary" battery
Coxy
PS. My old auto elec boss always said to me, "When sh!t goes wrong with 24volt systems, it happens twice as fast, and twice as bad".
When you get it running again, you need to hook up a seperate battery if you're going to run a fridge or other accessory for an extended time.
[quote="RockyF70 - Coming out of the closet"]i'd be rushing out and buying an IFS rocky[/quote]
Shadow wrote:lock it?coxy321 wrote:
Spot on. I have a 24v MQ for the farm car, and its a complete PITA cause whenever you want to use it your guaranteed that some pr!ck has "borrowed" one of the two batteries.
Coxy
ya can get under the bonnet of a locked MQ with no probs i kept my spare key in the air intake (not the engine side of the filter...) because i knew if i got locked out i could get to my spare in about 15 secs
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
nope, Just try amd jump start 1 battery and if that doesnt work try the other. Maybe charge each for 5 mins from jumper car if neededMatt N wrote:So, to jump start one of these Patrols you'd have to use another 24v car or truck? or?
BUt, IMHO batteries are cheap and a PITA when they dont work, GO buy 2 new ones if one is stuffed. Buy good ones and theyll last for years. a Cheap investment for going bush.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
2 x 12volt batteries and 2 sets of jumper leadsMatt N wrote:So, to jump start one of these Patrols you'd have to use another 24v car or truck? or?
or
run two battery paks
or
tow or roll start it
I roll start my old MQ every day
( luckily I have a steep driveway )
All the original poster had to do was hook the battery pak up to the one dead battery.
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
If one batt is down you can jump just one battery on a 24v system, makes it the same as 2 good 12v in series.
Later MQ diesels (called MK by some) has a 12v system .
On these the 2nd batt is an aux batt and both are 12v.
Because on the 24v system both batts are in series any charge current runs thru both. If one is charged its internal resistance goes up (as seen by reg)and current flow drops therby the lower batt will never see a full charge.
as stated charge each batt seperately on a 24v system to get by but you will need to purchase 2 bew ones MATCHED if required.
Do not run acc off either of these batts but use an invertor or voltage dropper from a truck wrecker if you are going to run 12v light, fridges etc.
Bazzle
Later MQ diesels (called MK by some) has a 12v system .
On these the 2nd batt is an aux batt and both are 12v.
Because on the 24v system both batts are in series any charge current runs thru both. If one is charged its internal resistance goes up (as seen by reg)and current flow drops therby the lower batt will never see a full charge.
as stated charge each batt seperately on a 24v system to get by but you will need to purchase 2 bew ones MATCHED if required.
Do not run acc off either of these batts but use an invertor or voltage dropper from a truck wrecker if you are going to run 12v light, fridges etc.
Bazzle
Thanks for explaining,V8Patrol wrote:No.Chucky wrote: With these types of systems do the batteries seperate when the car is switched off?
The system is a full 24Volt system.
A 12volt 'feed' is available only for the radio.
as is often the case, ppl "add" too many 12volt appliances to one of the batteries instead of 'sharing' the load/drain.Chucky wrote:Otherwise I can't reelly see how you could have one flat and one fully charged system in when they are connected in series.
add in a set or two of driving lights, CB &/or UHF + stereo, etc to one battery and the drawn current load becomes unequal...... forget to switch off the appliances overnight and that battery will loose enough to start the problem off.
I've seen a 12volt LPG system alone stuff one of a 24volt systems batteries it was connected to in less than 3 months of operation, when the battery was replaced the new battery lasted 4 months before it began to give trouble...... the problem was that a 12volt 'working light' was also draining from the same battery.
Once the system was equalised and both batteries had a 12 volt draw from them they lasted the 'normal lifetime'.
Kingy
I was talking to a old bloke at the pub about the old 24v patrols. He reckons when the japs were designing the patrols they asked a heap of aussies what they wanted in a 4by, and they all said duel batteries, they took this to mean 24v.
Don't know how true this is as 24v systems make alot of sense in current draw and size of motors to power, but he told a good story over a drink or two.
My Cruiser is Environmentally Friendly.
It runs on recycled Dinosaurs.
It runs on recycled Dinosaurs.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Tis a true storyChucky wrote:I was talking to a old bloke at the pub about the old 24v patrols. He reckons when the japs were designing the patrols they asked a heap of aussies what they wanted in a 4by, and they all said duel batteries, they took this to mean 24v.
the Japs came here to better "understand' the "enviroment" and the "needs" of their potential customers, the MQ and LJ50 & LJ80 were built / designed mainly on what they had learned from Aussie farmers and their needs which is probably why these vehicles are so strong and reliable even after such a long period of use.
Yes the 24volt system was mainly for Aust conditions & was so that farmers could jumpstart much of the then farm machinery.... trucks, tractors, self propelled bailers, headers, etc etc were largely 24volt and remain that to this day.
The m/cycle industry was also largely based on what Australians needed back in the 70's but has now shifted to the 'American needs'.
Japan makes ALL the motorcycles that Australia needs in 2 days..... Thats EVERYTHING from minibikes to full blown road bikes and farm bikes
The rest of their production is largely for the US market ( number 1 importer) and the 'Asian' market was 2nd followed by the european market....... we are ranked way down the ladder nowdays, so our "opinion" of what a bike should have no-longer counts.
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
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