My passengers front wheel is on a slant if you look from front then it looks like |--\ So am thinking the wheel bearings? I also need a hub seal kit as both sides have grease and oil leaking..
I am buying a hub seal kit and wheel bearings this week and was wondering whether I should replace the CV's while I am at it.
Do people normally change all of these at the one time or should I just do the hubseal and bearings and wait until the CV's pack it in before changing em?
I was looking at hobzees4wdshop on ebay and can get the the hubseal kit, wheel bearings and CV's for $324. Whats this price like?
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hubseal, CV's and wheel bearings advice
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
For above, yeswhiteknight wrote:Do I need to engage 4wd and lock the hubs to check? as mines a part time 4wd..
try locking the hubs in, getting on a reasonably flat grass paddock put it in 4wd and drive forward and reverse full lock, repeat full lock the other way. While you are doing this get someone outside to hear if it makes any noises....
This is the easiest way to check if it is a cv.
But!!!
I doubt it
I would say by what you have said in your post that it is more than likely a swivel hub bearing....
Best to pull it all out, clean it up and then work out what you need to replace.... Check the price on the wheel bearings (prob bout $40 for both sides from repco) IMOP while it is apart you may as well spend a couple of extra dollars and do it all... Once it is done you don't have to worry for a while.
Brad
3.0L turbo diesel, 4" lift, bud's front housing, track assasin cv's, air lokker front + Rear, beadlock'd 37 stickies, high steer, 15.5" travel ranchos, high pinion diff and coils on the rear
same thing happened to my 60 series while it was the old lady's
it turned out the swivel hub bearings had collapsed, wheel bearings were fine.
jack it up, grab the wheel and see whats moving, will be very easy to see if the whole swivel hub is moving.
if the wheel bearings were gone, i think siomething catastrophic would have happened.
when the swivel hub bearings collapse, the swivel hub still moves as normal, its just that the wheel is on a huge camber, and ofcourse your damaging the cv, and the axle housing.
it turned out the swivel hub bearings had collapsed, wheel bearings were fine.
jack it up, grab the wheel and see whats moving, will be very easy to see if the whole swivel hub is moving.
if the wheel bearings were gone, i think siomething catastrophic would have happened.
when the swivel hub bearings collapse, the swivel hub still moves as normal, its just that the wheel is on a huge camber, and ofcourse your damaging the cv, and the axle housing.
i dont have a pic of the seal itself as i have installed it in the car already.
1 the rubber on the Toyota seal was alot stronger and thicker that was on the aftermarket one.
2 the actual thickness of the steel used in the toyota seal was about 1mm whereas the other seal was only about .7mm thick.
3 the aftermarket seals both didnt touch the axel at all once installed there was about .9-1mm clearance between the 2.
the toyota seal actually had what looked like a copper coating on it also.
it was only $17inc gst and i thought it was well worth it once i saw the quality. It went in so much nicer aswell.
when i spoke to toyota about the seal problem he seemed to know about it, and told me that quite often most aftermarket seals arent 100% spot on and if they are even .1 off it wil leak like a siv. I just thought it was interesting that he actually new there was a problem. i just though yeah yeah trying to convince me to buy genuine....... Damn i hatewhen there right.
1 the rubber on the Toyota seal was alot stronger and thicker that was on the aftermarket one.
2 the actual thickness of the steel used in the toyota seal was about 1mm whereas the other seal was only about .7mm thick.
3 the aftermarket seals both didnt touch the axel at all once installed there was about .9-1mm clearance between the 2.
the toyota seal actually had what looked like a copper coating on it also.
it was only $17inc gst and i thought it was well worth it once i saw the quality. It went in so much nicer aswell.
when i spoke to toyota about the seal problem he seemed to know about it, and told me that quite often most aftermarket seals arent 100% spot on and if they are even .1 off it wil leak like a siv. I just thought it was interesting that he actually new there was a problem. i just though yeah yeah trying to convince me to buy genuine....... Damn i hatewhen there right.
Don't have a decent camerapunk_180 wrote:You wouldnt think so.
however i got mu seals at $17inc gst send me a pic of your seal.......
Mind you i bought what was a genuine "seal kit" from autobarn that was badged with toyota all over it and it was in fact a rip
EDIT: Had a REEEALLY good look, there are very subtle differences. So subtle that they could almost be put down to manufacturing tolerances. The rubber in the toyota seal seams to be a little softer, but that could be my imagination.
-Stu
Reading all this with interest as a few months back I had full seal kits and bearings done in my swivel hubs.
Ever since the grease has been oozing out past the wiper seals and coating the swivel ball and now it looks like it is getting thinner suggesting that the inner seals are leaking again.
I trust the guy that replaced them for me (a workmate) but a new guy at work reckons the wiper seals may have gone on in the wrong order. I've also read that if wheel bearings are done up too tight the hub will heat up excessively causing the grease to thin and ooze out. Thirdly I've read of blocked breathers which could force grease and oil out of the diff. I don't know where to start ?
Ever since the grease has been oozing out past the wiper seals and coating the swivel ball and now it looks like it is getting thinner suggesting that the inner seals are leaking again.
I trust the guy that replaced them for me (a workmate) but a new guy at work reckons the wiper seals may have gone on in the wrong order. I've also read that if wheel bearings are done up too tight the hub will heat up excessively causing the grease to thin and ooze out. Thirdly I've read of blocked breathers which could force grease and oil out of the diff. I don't know where to start ?
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