Remember to check the unis on your jackshaft as well as your driveshafts as these go too. the last ones I did in my old zook where fixed in (no circlips) so the caps had to be drilled out of the yoke. Was a real pita!
Ive found the easiest backyard method to get old ones out/put new ones in is to use a socket thatss about the same diameter, or a bit less, as the end caps. Put the socket over the caps and clamp it in the vice until you can see the circlip groove. Then just unclamp and install the cirlip. Do this for each end cap and you're done. After you,ve done it a couple of times you'll get quicker at it.
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clunk when I take off
I'd be surprised, but if it is, it's time for a rebuild. I'd vote though if the internals of a case had enough wear they'd cause you're clunk, you'll be throwing the whole case away- there's not really anywhere for play to develop in a case.
Steve.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
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Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
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I would be supprised too if the acutal clunk was from the case. There will always be a bit of play in the t-case, as there has to be a slight clearance between the gears. How much are you talking about? If you are still having problems diagnosing this, before you waste your money on a new set of gears maybe get a mechanic mate to look at it, or take it to your local mechanic.
Layto....
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
is that 20mm of play before the diff flange moves? IF it is then the play must be in the diff.brendan_h wrote:the amount of play at the tires (bf muddys 32s) the tire will move at a maximum of abou 20mm total.
I'm happy to be corrected but, (assuming uni's are good) starting with the tires on the ground and the case in N grab the tail shaft and see how much play (in degrees) there is, that would be play in the diff. Then drop the tail shaft put the gear box in 1st (or park for an auto) and transfer case in 2h, 4h or 4L grab the tail shaft and see how much you can turn it, that would be transfer/gearbox play. I guess there will always be some play as gears tend not to like being completely meshed but i have no idea how much is "normal". Any one have definitive numbers for drivetrain play/backlash?
How did you work this out? What method did you use? Did you check the jackshaft (the shaft running from the gearbox to tcase) for movement?brendan_h wrote:found out the slack is in the tcase. what could this be?
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
ok did everything there but i didnt drop the tailshaft (will do on weekend)PCRman wrote:is that 20mm of play before the diff flange moves? IF it is then the play must be in the diff.brendan_h wrote:the amount of play at the tires (bf muddys 32s) the tire will move at a maximum of abou 20mm total.
I'm happy to be corrected but, (assuming uni's are good) starting with the tires on the ground and the case in N grab the tail shaft and see how much play (in degrees) there is, that would be play in the diff. Then drop the tail shaft put the gear box in 1st (or park for an auto) and transfer case in 2h, 4h or 4L grab the tail shaft and see how much you can turn it, that would be transfer/gearbox play. I guess there will always be some play as gears tend not to like being completely meshed but i have no idea how much is "normal". Any one have definitive numbers for drivetrain play/backlash?
i have play in the unis and in the diff. how do i fix the diff play
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
Useful link for understanding diff setup, it may not apply to all diff universally but does have easy to understand definitions. That being said I personally don’t have the know how to attempt setup my self. The limit of what I would do is to remove the carrier and take it to a diff specialist for setup.
http://www.thedirtforum.com/differential.htm
Did you check the jack shaft as per V840's suggestion (car in gear, t'case in gear, wheels on ground, rotational and lateral play in jackshaft???)?
http://www.thedirtforum.com/differential.htm
Did you check the jack shaft as per V840's suggestion (car in gear, t'case in gear, wheels on ground, rotational and lateral play in jackshaft???)?
i think i payed 18 for a grease able one ... was about mid last year i did my last uni4130warrior wrote:There's a mob on eBay who sell them for $44 + shipping for the pair...lay80n wrote:Sierra uni's are easily obtained from most parts places, and are an easy job to change. To those that are having clunks, put your handbrake on, car in gear, and try to turn the drive shaft, if there is any play in your uni replace it. You should feel the uni "clunk" as you try to rotate the shaft.
Layto....
was just at my local auto shop
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Mmmmm I have had a few thrusts split on me causing quite alot of play. Dont know how or why tho. Anyone else experienced this?Gwagensteve wrote:I'd be surprised, but if it is, it's time for a rebuild. I'd vote though if the internals of a case had enough wear they'd cause you're clunk, you'll be throwing the whole case away- there's not really anywhere for play to develop in a case.
Steve.
Dan
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