I haven't posted anything for a while so here's something different.
Well kiddies I have finally installed a “bypass filter” on my Australian Diesel Rocky.
This should increase my oil change intervals from 5,000klm to at least 15,000 klm.
It’s basically an extra filter with a 1 micron rating that filters out the small particles that the normal oil filter lets through. The old filter remains in place and the bypass filter has an oil feed from near the oil pump and returns the oil into the top of the tappet cover (I couldn’t find any oil return galleries on the side of the motor)
I got the idea from the overlander forum which does a far better job explaining the technicalities than I could ever do.
http://forums.overlander.com.au/viewtop ... 92af5dc9a4
If the link fails just go to the overlander site and do a search on "bypass filters" The posting was in the "technical" forum and was dated May 22 2003.
I am using the Baldwin filter and Caltex Delo 400 oil as mentioned in the link above.
The filter is installed on the firewall near the air conditioning pipes.
I will be getting an oil analysis every 5000 klm to see how long the oil will last.
Here's two pictures.
Bye the way how can I add more than 2 pictures as attachments?
I got a couple more showing the supply line that I would like to add.
Stu.
Brisbane, Australia
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Diesel Rocks bypass oil filter
Moderator: Tiny
Yes, the fittings and hoses did cost a bit more than expected, mainly because I went with 150 degree hose instead of the lower temp stuff.
The hydraulic man told me the lower temp stuff tends to become brittle after a couple of years if run close to it's maximum temp.
These expensive fittings are reusable which means if ever I sell the Rocky (the mere thought of that makes my shiver) I can take the filter with me and just have to buy some longer hose.
The only piece of hose that is exposed goes from the side of the motor to the side guard and there is a bash plate that covers it. This plate has been removed for the photo.
But I dunno know if I would ever go off road. That means I would get it dirty wouldn't it.
Stu
The hydraulic man told me the lower temp stuff tends to become brittle after a couple of years if run close to it's maximum temp.
These expensive fittings are reusable which means if ever I sell the Rocky (the mere thought of that makes my shiver) I can take the filter with me and just have to buy some longer hose.
The only piece of hose that is exposed goes from the side of the motor to the side guard and there is a bash plate that covers it. This plate has been removed for the photo.
But I dunno know if I would ever go off road. That means I would get it dirty wouldn't it.
Stu
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
Looks good Stu, I've always liked the secondary oil filters, what sort of dollars did the whole setup cost you - I'm assuming you did the install yourself, I would do the same. Been thinking of putting one on the Camolux and the Mav.
The forum is limited to uploading 2 pics per post - it's the way it has been setup by the admin.
The forum is limited to uploading 2 pics per post - it's the way it has been setup by the admin.
Built, not bought.
Let me check them receipts that I have hidden from my wife .....
Here they are:
Baldwin filter head DB1305 $68.55
Baldwin B50 filter $11
(Queensland diesel spares - I think from memory you live in QLD)
2 hoses at 800mm long each with all "Ryco" fittings to suit $130 total
(local hydraulics shop)
The Hoses cost a lot more that I originally expected but what price do you pay for a poor quality broken hose.
I reckon if I was doing a lot of miles it would pay for itself in no time, not to mention the benefit to the engine.
By the way I reckon your Area 54 rock crawling videos are excellent.
Stu
Here they are:
Baldwin filter head DB1305 $68.55
Baldwin B50 filter $11
(Queensland diesel spares - I think from memory you live in QLD)
2 hoses at 800mm long each with all "Ryco" fittings to suit $130 total
(local hydraulics shop)
The Hoses cost a lot more that I originally expected but what price do you pay for a poor quality broken hose.
I reckon if I was doing a lot of miles it would pay for itself in no time, not to mention the benefit to the engine.
By the way I reckon your Area 54 rock crawling videos are excellent.
Stu
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
Big-Stu wrote:Let me check them receipts that I have hidden from my wife .....
Here they are:
Baldwin filter head DB1305 $68.55
Baldwin B50 filter $11
(Queensland diesel spares - I think from memory you live in QLD)
2 hoses at 800mm long each with all "Ryco" fittings to suit $130 total
(local hydraulics shop)
The Hoses cost a lot more that I originally expected but what price do you pay for a poor quality broken hose.
I reckon if I was doing a lot of miles it would pay for itself in no time, not to mention the benefit to the engine.
By the way I reckon your Area 54 rock crawling videos are excellent.
Stu
Thanks for your feedback Stu, I put a lot of work into the videos, and I really enjoy bringing the action to everyones' loungerooms.
I reckon any additional product that can actively remove more combustion waste products from the lubrication system is fantastic. You'll probably find the oil will only stay usable for about 10,000k's (could be wrong though with the oil analysis) Reason: Trucks have larger sumps and a lot more oil to distribute the combustion waste load into; Trucks see less startup/shutdown/short distance running than a passenger vehicle, and tend to run their oil and engines at better operating temps - this sees a better atomisation of fuel and waste burn off.
Also, most oils have certain chemical compounds that are self sacrificial, ie lubricant additives that 'wear out' or are consumed during the life of the oil. The fluid that remains is basically the carrier of these additives, and is not as good at lubricating as new oil. Also most jap diesels are well fed with fuel, the smallest amount of fuel will remain on the cylinder wall after combustion, this fuel then finds its way into the lubrication system and dilutes the oil. The oil may still look clean, but the unseen additives may be depleted.
I'd change the oil at 5,000km/10,000km anyway, safe in the knowledge that the motor will last much much longer now with the additional filter.
Built, not bought.
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