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Big oil change,Can i use diesel to flush diff's,gearbox et

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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Big oil change,Can i use diesel to flush diff's,gearbox et

Post by simcoe »

Hey Guys
well it's time for a major oil change on the beast :cool:
now iv heard that diesel can be used as a flushing agent but is it safe to use on the engine,diffs,gearbox and transfer case in a gu tb45

Thanks lads

(i did do a search and couldn't find anything)
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Post by Mark2 »

If your gearbox diffs etc arent contaminated, I'd just drop the oil when they're warm - I cant see a need to flush them.

I've heard of people using diesel in the engine but I personally wouldnt be game. There is a mob who advertise a special diesel flushing compound which is supposed to remove a lot of sludge from indirect injection diesels.
Cant remember the name atm.
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Post by Bad JuJu »

Posting quality not quantity!

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Post by simcoe »

Mark2 wrote:If your gearbox diffs etc arent contaminated, I'd just drop the oil when they're warm - I cant see a need to flush them.

I've heard of people using diesel in the engine but I personally wouldnt be game. There is a mob who advertise a special diesel flushing compound which is supposed to remove a lot of sludge from indirect injection diesels.
Cant remember the name atm.
well i forgot to say that i have been through some big water crossings lately..ie over the head lights and at night... :shock: scary!! couldnt see a thing!!

since then the gearbox has been abit notchy and with the rear diff i can feel it engage when i take of sometimes..! so id say there's some water in there somewhere!?

i guess i'l soon know tomorrow when i dump oil left right an centre :roll:

if there is milky oil anywhere i might flush diesel through it(not engine)

cheers
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FLUSH

Post by ratbagpatrol »

YOU CAN USE KERO TO FLUSH THE ENGINE JUST GET A TWENTY LITER DRUM OF THE STUFF AND A DRUM PUMP A FITTING THAT SCRWES IN TO WHERE YOUR OIL ORESSURE SENDER GOES( 1/8 BSP) PUT THE FITTING ON THE END OF THE DRUM PUMP SUPPY LINE DROP THE OIL UN SCREW THE SENDER FIT THE LINE AND PUMP A WAY THE KERO WILL CLEAN OUT THE SLUG IN THE OIL PATHWAYS AND IN THE BOTTOM OF THE SUMP PUMP IT THOUGHT THREE OR FOUR TIMES DO THIS WHEN THE MOTOR IS HOT BUT DO NOT RUN THE MOTOR LEAVE IT TO DRAIN OVER NIGHT FILL WITH OIL AND RUN MOTOR RUN TAKE IT FOR A DRIVE AND COME HOME AND DROP THE OIL AGAIN AND CHANGE THE FILTERS IS A PRICEY JOB BUT THE GIVE AN OLD ENGINE A FLUSH IS A GOOD IDEA IT WILL GET RID OF ALL THE SLUG IN IT WHICH WILL HOLDS ALL THE CARBBON AND CRAP IT WILL BLOW YOUR MIND THE AMOUNT OF SHIT THAT COMES OUT

OK TO DO YOUR DIFFS AND GEAR BOX DROP THE OIL HOT FILL WITH KERO DESIEL AND SPIN IT AROUND BIT DRIVE UP AND DOWN THE DRIVE WAY TEN TIMES OR SO DROP THE FULID AND LEAVE IT TO DRAIN OVER NIGHT FILL WITH NEW OIL AND AFTER ABOUT 1000 KM CHECK AND SEE WHAT THE OIL LOOKS LIKE IF IT IS SHITTY LOOKING CHANGE IT THIS IS A GOOD FLUSH FOR YOUR CARS DRIVE LINE BUT REMBER DO NOT START THE MOTOR WITH THE KERO IN IT OR GO FOR A BIT DRIVE WITH THE KERO IN YOUR DIFFS OF GEAR BOX OR YOU WILL CHANGING THE OUT DAME SOON
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Post by simcoe »

sounds like a plan!
thanks for that :)
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Post by coxy321 »

Sounds like your unis or rear diff's backlash need to be adjusted too if you can hear/feel it engage on takeoff.

Coxy
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Post by simcoe »

coxy321 wrote:Sounds like your unis or rear diff's backlash need to be adjusted too if you can hear/feel it engage on takeoff.

Coxy
might get the old boy to suss that one out Coxy!
i'v got know idear how to do that or what to look for!

cheers
00 td42t wagon
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Post by coxy321 »

Park your car, put the handbreak on, and chock the wheels up (for safety of course!). Leave the car out of gear, make sure its in H2 (high range 2wd).

Jump underneath the rear of the car, and give the rear tailshaft a wiggle (now is a good time to check out your universal joints for play). Basically what you are looking/feeling for is slop/play between the diff's input shaft (pinion), and the crown wheel inside the diff. If you rotate the input shaft, you should only have very minimal play, if any.

Too loose of a backlash setting and it will cause clunking on takeoff, rough gear changes, will damage seals and bearing, and will also eventually chew out the crownwheel if left for a lot of time. Its definately one of those things that is a complete pain in the @rse to do, but makes such a big difference in the end.

Coxy
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Post by simcoe »

cheers Coxy
well just changed the diff oils..the rear one dropped out a good 5.4 odd litres.. it only took 4 on re-filling before it over flowed out!
and the front dropped a ridiculus 7 odd litres!! which in turn took about 5.6 beofre it over flowed!

has someone filled them up way to much in the past??!!

rear didnt look conteminated but the front had a small amount of white froth!

cheers
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Post by coxy321 »

First things first - check your diff breathers and make sure they're not blocked.

Secondly, your milky oil means that its had moisture in it. If it were me, id go and rack up 200-300km with the hubs in (do it on gravel roads to avoid wind-up), this will agitate the new oil, loosen any gunk in the diff, and flush/dilute whats left of the milky oil.

After you've done this, drop the diff oil again (do it just after you've driven it while the diff oil is hot), and then throw some new stuff in.

You cant really overfill diffs unless a) you have castor issues and the diff is over rotated, hence raising the fill level; b) you park the car on such an angle that it raises the fill level.

Coxy
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