gad zooks batman.. another onboard air question

Post by **robbie** » Thu Dec 18, 2003 2:05 pm

ok, just wondering if there are pressure regulators that would allow me to have say 150psi in my tank, but say regulate only 95psi -> the ARB diff locks (when they arrive god knows when)..

Post by **Area54** » Thu Dec 18, 2003 2:58 pm

You can get a filter/regulator (with or without a water trap) from any decent tool shop that sell compressors. plumb the regulator before the outlet manifold that your locker solenoids are screwed into, with the pressure cutout switch directly before the regulator, or on the tank if there is provision. The regulators are manual, so you can set them up to whatever pressure you desire, and then lock down the handle. They will also trap the moisture (and oil vapour) that flows through the hoses.

Post by **N*A*M** » Thu Dec 18, 2003 3:05 pm

the regulator and fittings will cost more than your compressor, but not as much as my hourly fee.

Post by **bogged** » Thu Dec 18, 2003 3:17 pm

Pirtek... they should have your shiat.

Post by **robbie** » Thu Dec 18, 2003 7:41 pm

I will do a quick diagram tonight when I get home.. tell me what you guys think when its up

Post by **robbie** » Thu Dec 18, 2003 11:49 pm

just did a quick 5 minute mspaint diagram of what I sorta have planned.. its missing heaps of detail/bits, but you should get the idea

Post by **80diesel4play** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 7:33 am

Why run the front line seperate from the tank? :?:

I am putting together a setup now and I'd rather have the tank drive air when I have to re seat a bead (more than likely on the front as well..) If you keep the same layout - you may as well buy an ARB comp for your front wheels dude.

10 mins extra work and a T piece at the tank will save you so much PITA time on tracks champ. Okay - maybe another 3 meteres of airline...

Just my $0.02 worth

Post by **robbie** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 8:38 am

the tank will be at the back of the vehicle, so its going to be easier to run a shorted bit of hose t-peiced to the front of the car..

why not an ARB? cause a york would do my tyres up in 10-20 seconds, where as the ARB takes 2-5 minutes..

Post by **V8Patrol** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 10:16 am

80diesel4play wrote:Why run the front line seperate from the tank?

I am putting together a setup now and I'd rather have the tank drive air when I have to re seat a bead (more than likely on the front as well..) If you keep the same layout - you may as well buy an ARB comp for your front wheels dude.

10 mins extra work and a T piece at the tank will save you so much PITA time on tracks champ. Okay - maybe another 3 meteres of airline...

Just my $0.02 worth

Sorry Robbie but i sorta tend to agree with "diesel4play", my main reasone being in th e drawing you supplied there's no room for error in the front "airing up " line,.... atleast theres a "safety popout valve" off of the tank where the rear line comes from.

Post by **robbie** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 10:19 am

yer.. I see what he is saying now.. sorta miss understood it..

Post by **RoldIT** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 10:40 am

The question is, how often do you wanna replace blown seals in you difflocks from a dodgy, half ass air system all for an extra 50psi?!?!? Sounds expensive to me ... :roll:

My mate runs the same system but using a ARB pressure switch through the whole system. 85-105psi is enough to run a rattle gun and air up 33" from 15-35psi in about 40 seconds.

Put the time and effort into making sure you have a big tank, that's gunna make the performance difference in the system.

Post by **robbie** » Fri Dec 19, 2003 10:47 am

well.. all the dudes in the stats run those pressure regulators..

I could possibly have a safety valve after the pressure regulator set @ 110 PSI so if its going to high, it will pop the safety valve leaving my seals in tact..

that could work yer?

Post by **bazzle** » Sat Dec 20, 2003 5:26 am

well.. all the dudes in the stats run those pressure regulators Who said??

My experience is that lots of "dudes" buy the ARB or equivalent pressure sw to keep system within airlocker design limits.

Put your pressure blow off and pressure sw on tank not in line

Bazzle

Post by **robbie** » Sat Dec 20, 2003 5:04 pm

here is one site I found: http://www.webejeepin.com/jeep-onboard-air6.htm

thats the page he has modded his system to run a regulator to run ARBs.. obviously the rest of his system is 130-150psi working range

let me know what you think

Post by **Ruggers** » Sat Dec 20, 2003 10:47 pm

the air line at the front of vehcile is still hooked up to the tank cause its after the one way valve so it will drave air from the tanlkk when needed.
that said i just run an arb pressure switch it was cheaper than getting an adjustable p/s i dont need the extra regulator and it keeps it at the reconmended pressure and i can fill up my 33's from 15 psi quicker than i can let them down

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gad zooks batman.. another onboard air question

gad zooks batman.. another onboard air question

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