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Baleno Motor (With build up pics)
Just a few more updates on my build
The 1.6 with the wildcat extractors, here the engine mount is modified as they only just fit.
Bulletproof armour for my gearbox, otherwise known as the 6mm adapter plate ive started to make. So far everything is lining up perfectly.
The locating dowel i lathed up at work out of half an old ubolt. Basically the thicker part is 15mm or the thickness of the original engine dowel, and the other 12.95mm which is the original size of the gearbox dowel. Then i drilled and tapped the inside to 10x1.25mm thread, so now im going to insert a 10mm 'recoil' into the engine bolt holes to reduce the diameter, then fit a long threaded rod through my dowel pin. So then i screw the rod and dowel pin into engine block till it bottoms out, then fit the gearbox over the smaller part of the dowel pin, then use a nut to hold gearbox on. For the opposite lower dowel pin, im going to use the original and precicely drill a 15mm hole in the 6mm plate to locate it.
The lot sitting on a bench in a corner at work. Makes it so much easier to work on. When i removed the gearbox at lunchtime to measure things up, i came back to it at the end of the day and the smart ass bastards at work bolted it back onto the engine, they even bolted the starter motor back onto the gearbox. They said they were even considering carrying it out the back and refitting it back into the sierra hehe
Other side of the gearbox plate.
Few other interesting views.
The 1.6 with the wildcat extractors, here the engine mount is modified as they only just fit.
Bulletproof armour for my gearbox, otherwise known as the 6mm adapter plate ive started to make. So far everything is lining up perfectly.
The locating dowel i lathed up at work out of half an old ubolt. Basically the thicker part is 15mm or the thickness of the original engine dowel, and the other 12.95mm which is the original size of the gearbox dowel. Then i drilled and tapped the inside to 10x1.25mm thread, so now im going to insert a 10mm 'recoil' into the engine bolt holes to reduce the diameter, then fit a long threaded rod through my dowel pin. So then i screw the rod and dowel pin into engine block till it bottoms out, then fit the gearbox over the smaller part of the dowel pin, then use a nut to hold gearbox on. For the opposite lower dowel pin, im going to use the original and precicely drill a 15mm hole in the 6mm plate to locate it.
The lot sitting on a bench in a corner at work. Makes it so much easier to work on. When i removed the gearbox at lunchtime to measure things up, i came back to it at the end of the day and the smart ass bastards at work bolted it back onto the engine, they even bolted the starter motor back onto the gearbox. They said they were even considering carrying it out the back and refitting it back into the sierra hehe
Other side of the gearbox plate.
Few other interesting views.
The tacho works off the alternator, so just connect the alternator up properly and it should work fine.
I was just thinkin too, has anyone machined up an adapter and spaced out theyre flywheel 6mm to compensate for the adapter plate? From doing a bit of measuring the input shaft should still sit a little into the spigot bearing so thats ok, and the friction plate should still have enough contact on the input shaft splines so thats ok, but im worried about the throwout bearing moving too far off the gearbox nosecone and getting jammed or something. Maybe instead of spacing out the flywheel i could make a 6mm spacer and fuse it to the wear surface of the throwout bearing to space that out, but im not sure if it needs to be hardened to survive wearing against the pressure plate fingers.
EDIT: *erk* cant beleive i said tacho runs off alternator, its wrong ppl
I was just thinkin too, has anyone machined up an adapter and spaced out theyre flywheel 6mm to compensate for the adapter plate? From doing a bit of measuring the input shaft should still sit a little into the spigot bearing so thats ok, and the friction plate should still have enough contact on the input shaft splines so thats ok, but im worried about the throwout bearing moving too far off the gearbox nosecone and getting jammed or something. Maybe instead of spacing out the flywheel i could make a 6mm spacer and fuse it to the wear surface of the throwout bearing to space that out, but im not sure if it needs to be hardened to survive wearing against the pressure plate fingers.
EDIT: *erk* cant beleive i said tacho runs off alternator, its wrong ppl
Last edited by PJ.zook on Wed Sep 24, 2008 7:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
ooo, how did you work that one out pj?. im guessing because we run the same head config, that i could run mine like this.... will have to do it when i swap the BB into the LWB.PJ.zook wrote:The tacho works off the alternator, so just connect the alternator up properly and it should work fine.
85 LWB w. FRP Canopy
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
Finally hooked up my baleno tacho today grafted into suzys instument cluster! So now i have the baleno 200Km/h speedo,And the baleno tacho!
T'was abit fiddly but it was sort of a bolt in thing!
*1 long screw for a tachowire screwed it all in.
*Cut abit off the sierra original plastic (around the backing light bulbs)
*Wired in some connection hoops to the tacho terminals, Work out which one is Power,earth and tacho signal from the ecu. Then wired it into the original accesorys power/earth
*Used part of the baleno black surround cos the tacho is smaller, so u get light coming through.
*Use baleno arrows
*Also found out, mine was showing it was revving at 3k, so i popped the arrow off again and put it on kinda crooked below the stopper, so it grabs the spindle, then move it past the stopper, push on and check again. Hard to explain.
*Also used the vitara vss in speedo for the computer, lines up with the baleno odometer kinda ok. But the kms were more in my odo.
ah well 
T'was abit fiddly but it was sort of a bolt in thing!
*1 long screw for a tachowire screwed it all in.
*Cut abit off the sierra original plastic (around the backing light bulbs)
*Wired in some connection hoops to the tacho terminals, Work out which one is Power,earth and tacho signal from the ecu. Then wired it into the original accesorys power/earth
*Used part of the baleno black surround cos the tacho is smaller, so u get light coming through.
*Use baleno arrows
*Also found out, mine was showing it was revving at 3k, so i popped the arrow off again and put it on kinda crooked below the stopper, so it grabs the spindle, then move it past the stopper, push on and check again. Hard to explain.
*Also used the vitara vss in speedo for the computer, lines up with the baleno odometer kinda ok. But the kms were more in my odo.
ah well
Last edited by BlueSuzy on Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
I am Tim
I'd like you know how you figured that too, I think it runs off the crank/cam angle sensor and the signal is provided by the ECU.Spike_Sierra wrote:ooo, how did you work that one out pj?. im guessing because we run the same head config, that i could run mine like this.... will have to do it when i swap the BB into the LWB.PJ.zook wrote:The tacho works off the alternator, so just connect the alternator up properly and it should work fine.
The Alternator just has ig+ and L terminals like any other.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
you can't make a flywheel spacer other wise your starter will not engage properly. i have just finished making 2 adapter plats, yes they work but i wish i was not so miserable and just bought them off bent. looks like you have the right tools to do it but damn it has to be accurate
WANTED: swb vitara rear seat. the 3 seater bench type
for sale: wt diffs, snake hi steer, maruti 4.1 wt centres,
for sale: wt diffs, snake hi steer, maruti 4.1 wt centres,
More pics
Modded sump, unfortunately i didnt have access to a tig as planned so i mig'd it and ground it back a little.
Before i welded the section on, i dry fitted teh sump and made sure that none of the crank would hit the baffle, it was at least 15mm away so that will be fine. I heard that some ppls cranks are hitting the baffle so i checked.
Crank angle sensor section cut from baleno sump and grafted onto zook sump. Is this how everyone else did it?
Modded pickup. I cut the large diameter mount from the baleno pickup and welded it in place of the sierra one, then cut the old tag off, refashioned it and welded it on over the bearing cap with the threaded hole. There was no hole where the old bracket was.
Transferred the larger EA alternator onto new engine from my old 1.3, fit great, have to get a multirib pulley though.
Modded sump, unfortunately i didnt have access to a tig as planned so i mig'd it and ground it back a little.
Before i welded the section on, i dry fitted teh sump and made sure that none of the crank would hit the baffle, it was at least 15mm away so that will be fine. I heard that some ppls cranks are hitting the baffle so i checked.
Crank angle sensor section cut from baleno sump and grafted onto zook sump. Is this how everyone else did it?
Modded pickup. I cut the large diameter mount from the baleno pickup and welded it in place of the sierra one, then cut the old tag off, refashioned it and welded it on over the bearing cap with the threaded hole. There was no hole where the old bracket was.
Transferred the larger EA alternator onto new engine from my old 1.3, fit great, have to get a multirib pulley though.
Its the 1.3 brackets that i previously modified to fit alternator. Plus the 1.6 brackets wouldnt have fitted, as the 1.6 alternator has a single wide lug that sits between the two lugs on the bracket, whereas the 1.3 alternator had 2 lugs held by 2 lugs on bracket, which was same as most larger alternators, such as the Fords.
Yup your sump looks b e a utiful! Did mine the same, but with a stick welder, and yes it was a pain in tha bum. The support bracket also i found out the same, and i made the little baby support bracket same as u. And also, i just kept my alternator. I thought it would be stronger than the sierra one anyway as its meant to run a power windowed/steering airbagged baleno 
I am Tim
Q. is there any main reason that the Vit block(as i have) has two bars running over the bearing caps? like belowPJ.zook wrote:
Modded pickup. I cut the large diameter mount from the baleno pickup and welded it in place of the sierra one, then cut the old tag off, refashioned it and welded it on over the bearing cap with the threaded hole. There was no hole where the old bracket was.
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
for strength under hi load conditions. don't remove them. later models didn,t have these but they also had a different cap design.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
Posts: 912
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2004 6:29 pm
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2004 6:29 pm
Location: {Sydney, Australia or Rio, Brazil Ride: Sierra JXi}
Posts: 912
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2004 6:29 pm
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2004 6:29 pm
Location: {Sydney, Australia or Rio, Brazil Ride: Sierra JXi}
few questions,
1) could you just use the jimny sump on the baleno motor if you suck at welding?
2) the 'hi load conditons' bars running along the g16, were they on the carbies? or early 16vs?
3) Could the bars be used on a 1.3l? (g13a, ba, b, bb)
(like building a turbo block or something)
1) could you just use the jimny sump on the baleno motor if you suck at welding?
2) the 'hi load conditons' bars running along the g16, were they on the carbies? or early 16vs?
3) Could the bars be used on a 1.3l? (g13a, ba, b, bb)
(like building a turbo block or something)
-[b]Santos[/b][img]http://www.teamswift.net/images/smilies/icon_furious.gif[/img]
Suzuki, Jeep & Toyota Soft tops with welded seams for SALE (PM me)
Suzuki, Jeep & Toyota Soft tops with welded seams for SALE (PM me)
Just a small update, i have been sorting out the wiring from what i need and dont need, snipping out all the wires i can use. Im keeping the airconditioning too, going to use the baleno evaporator and TIG up a custom airbox. This means a suprising amount more wiring and relays, so im also keeping the relay and fuse box and mounting infront of my second battery.
The loom went from this giant mess...
...to this neat little bunch
Also for everyone looking for a wiring diagram and plenty more info on the motor and electrics, you only need to download archive part 9 from the following link. The PDF contained therein had every little bit of info i needed.
http://www.skidmark.co.uk/suzuki/sy.htm
On another note, does anyone happen to have the aircon 'computer' that they dont need from theyre conversion, it should be on the side of the airbox, i need it and forgot to keep it from when i stripped the baleno.
The loom went from this giant mess...
...to this neat little bunch
Also for everyone looking for a wiring diagram and plenty more info on the motor and electrics, you only need to download archive part 9 from the following link. The PDF contained therein had every little bit of info i needed.
http://www.skidmark.co.uk/suzuki/sy.htm
On another note, does anyone happen to have the aircon 'computer' that they dont need from theyre conversion, it should be on the side of the airbox, i need it and forgot to keep it from when i stripped the baleno.
My original water piping as you see in the pics is mostly cut up now. I didnt have a thermostat. It caused endless problems
However i have one now, Its full custom but...
Steel machined on a lathe, all recessed for the thermo and sensor tapped, welded piping etc. I will get a recent pic 4 ya
However i have one now, Its full custom but...
Steel machined on a lathe, all recessed for the thermo and sensor tapped, welded piping etc. I will get a recent pic 4 ya
I am Tim
PJ i take it that u have trimmed the loom a bit? as i think mines a bit longer than that.Santos wrote:few questions,
1) could you just use the jimny sump on the baleno motor if you suck at welding?
2) the 'hi load conditons' bars running along the g16, were they on the carbies? or early 16vs?
3) Could the bars be used on a 1.3l? (g13a, ba, b, bb)
(like building a turbo block or something)
where u guys mounting the ecus?
Santos
1 no idea, i'd say if sump fits the G13 then it should fit the g16 fine cept for the sensors if there. mine is a std 1.3 sump as no CAS
2 G16A mpfi thats what mine is
3 maybe
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
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