Hey all, looking into a auto conversion for my gu coil cab cause my legs aren't getting any younger and im sick of having a clutch pedal!!!!
gotta a quick question for the experts and those who have done a auto conversion on a td42 before
What are the differences if any between an auto from a gq 4.2 petrol and a gu 4.5 petrol?
reason i ask is i may have found a gq series auto but i will give it a miss if the gu 4.5 boxes are a better choice
either or will get sent to wholesale autos for a valve body trick up
any rason i shouldnt use the gq box and any hints or tips i should look out for with the swap??
all you help is appreciated cause its my daily driver and the least amount of down time the better
cheers sean
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Manual to auto conversion - diesel
Manual to auto conversion - diesel
Gu Ute td42t, dzltech turbo, front mount and aus4wd manifold, 18 x 10 rims and 36 15.5 mickey t's for bling
Re: Manual to auto conversion - diesel
The 4.5 box has a better ratio for touring compared to the GQ box, having run one of each in mine..bigpatrol89 wrote:Hey all, looking into a auto conversion for my gu coil cab cause my legs aren't getting any younger and im sick of having a clutch pedal!!!!
gotta a quick question for the experts and those who have done a auto conversion on a td42 before
What are the differences if any between an auto from a gq 4.2 petrol and a gu 4.5 petrol?
reason i ask is i may have found a gq series auto but i will give it a miss if the gu 4.5 boxes are a better choice
either or will get sent to wholesale autos for a valve body trick up
any rason i shouldnt use the gq box and any hints or tips i should look out for with the swap??
all you help is appreciated cause its my daily driver and the least amount of down time the better
cheers sean
Speak with Rodney at Wholesale Automatics, but the hard part is finding someone that knows what the fuk they are doing in relation to the wiring. The tool working on mine is still trying to fix it after 6 months.
Cheers bogged, was hoping i'd here from you, ive tried the search but it hates me and nothing i searched for came up
what needs to be done in relation to the wiring so i can try and get a heads up on what im up for,
Also do you know if rodney can fit the box and do the wiring side of things cause i might just come over form tassie and get him to do it or would a auto sparky still need to do stuff
If i went for one of the manual valve bodys do you still have to do any of the electrical stuff or will it by-pass it like in most other autos ive used in cars before
cheers sean
what needs to be done in relation to the wiring so i can try and get a heads up on what im up for,
Also do you know if rodney can fit the box and do the wiring side of things cause i might just come over form tassie and get him to do it or would a auto sparky still need to do stuff
If i went for one of the manual valve bodys do you still have to do any of the electrical stuff or will it by-pass it like in most other autos ive used in cars before
cheers sean
Gu Ute td42t, dzltech turbo, front mount and aus4wd manifold, 18 x 10 rims and 36 15.5 mickey t's for bling
Give
Kewish Automotive
29A Amberley Crs
Dandenong
VIC, 3175
Ph: (03) 9793 2220
a ring they are doing my conversion as we speak. They do the whole conversion from modding the box to the wiring loom.
As to which auto to use and which way you want to go. Well there are 2 types of auto's for the diesel gq a light duty and heavy duty, 1 has a smaller torque converter than the other. As to Full Manual or Auto that is up to you and only you, I've been tossing up between the 2 myself and have finally decided on full auto (as you said not getting any younger).
Kewish Automotive
29A Amberley Crs
Dandenong
VIC, 3175
Ph: (03) 9793 2220
a ring they are doing my conversion as we speak. They do the whole conversion from modding the box to the wiring loom.
As to which auto to use and which way you want to go. Well there are 2 types of auto's for the diesel gq a light duty and heavy duty, 1 has a smaller torque converter than the other. As to Full Manual or Auto that is up to you and only you, I've been tossing up between the 2 myself and have finally decided on full auto (as you said not getting any younger).
cheers mate, will have a chat to them too,
as for the box, as far i know is out of a petrol, you say theres two different diesel ones, how do i know whats what and other than a bolt near the starter (so ive been told) that wont line up to the diesel is there any other things that wont let this work, would i need a stall from a diesel one or will a petrol work ok
I imagine like all my car race autos ive had wholesale autos or kewish would be able to have a custom stall built but would the petrol one work??
sorry for all the question, if it wasnt a daily driver i'd just jump in head frst and fix things as i go but that cant happen!!!
cheers sean
as for the box, as far i know is out of a petrol, you say theres two different diesel ones, how do i know whats what and other than a bolt near the starter (so ive been told) that wont line up to the diesel is there any other things that wont let this work, would i need a stall from a diesel one or will a petrol work ok
I imagine like all my car race autos ive had wholesale autos or kewish would be able to have a custom stall built but would the petrol one work??
sorry for all the question, if it wasnt a daily driver i'd just jump in head frst and fix things as i go but that cant happen!!!
cheers sean
Gu Ute td42t, dzltech turbo, front mount and aus4wd manifold, 18 x 10 rims and 36 15.5 mickey t's for bling
The diesel bellhousing is different it has 3 holes for the starter motor to mount onto, you will need to track down a diesel bellhousing, thats where the 2 different types come into it. The lighter duty of the two is a smaller internal bellhousing and smaller torque converter, the heavy duty version has a larger internal bellhousing and a larger torque converter with a welded ring around the converter.
Talk to them about your requirements, I had to go with the larger of the 2 as my motor is highly modified with a hell of a lot more torque and HP than standard. You maybe able to get away with the lighter duty version if your motor is near standard and the work you are doing is only light 4X4'ing.
Talk to them about your requirements, I had to go with the larger of the 2 as my motor is highly modified with a hell of a lot more torque and HP than standard. You maybe able to get away with the lighter duty version if your motor is near standard and the work you are doing is only light 4X4'ing.
Good luck is all I can say..GutSquisher Media wrote:Give
Kewish Automotive
29A Amberley Crs
Dandenong
VIC, 3175
Ph: (03) 9793 2220
a ring they are doing my conversion as we speak. They do the whole conversion from modding the box to the wiring loom.
actually they dont do the loom, they get an auto spark in to do it, adn if its the same one they used on mine, hes fuking useless. They told me NISSAN CAN SUPPLY A WIRING LOOM.. yet they didnt use it
7 mths on the 19th this has been going on for.
Last edited by bogged on Sun May 18, 2008 8:18 pm, edited 2 times in total.
think ill need the bigger one then, about to replace the turbo with the bigger disco potato and get the pump done, already running a maxed out stock pump and 20psi on a standard turbo, dont do much 4x4 ing cause its the tow rig for my race car but it still cops a flogging cause its cool passing cars up hill when your towing a car on 36's!!!!GutSquisher Media wrote:The diesel bellhousing is different it has 3 holes for the starter motor to mount onto, you will need to track down a diesel bellhousing, thats where the 2 different types come into it. The lighter duty of the two is a smaller internal bellhousing and smaller torque converter, the heavy duty version has a larger internal bellhousing and a larger torque converter with a welded ring around the converter.
Talk to them about your requirements, I had to go with the larger of the 2 as my motor is highly modified with a hell of a lot more torque and HP than standard. You maybe able to get away with the lighter duty version if your motor is near standard and the work you are doing is only light 4X4'ing.
all this info is great, maybe it can go in the bible?? looked in there and didn't really find anything
cheers guys
Gu Ute td42t, dzltech turbo, front mount and aus4wd manifold, 18 x 10 rims and 36 15.5 mickey t's for bling
I fitted a full manual value body last year. (one of Rodneys) There are 2 wires to conect to switchs etc.
One is for 4th gear which I wired to the power switch on the shifter and the other is for the lock-up torque convertor and you'll need a switch somewhere for that.
I love it as it gives you the best of both worlds. Manual control and no clutch. It is a bit rough at changing gears when there is light load but at full noise it is a super smooth change.
Just means for it to be good you HAVE to cane it all the time.
One is for 4th gear which I wired to the power switch on the shifter and the other is for the lock-up torque convertor and you'll need a switch somewhere for that.
I love it as it gives you the best of both worlds. Manual control and no clutch. It is a bit rough at changing gears when there is light load but at full noise it is a super smooth change.
Just means for it to be good you HAVE to cane it all the time.
93 Nissan Pathfinder / Terrano Turboed VH45, GQ Trans and T-case, coil overs, hydraulic winch and fair bit of other stuff. (Currently a pile of parts in the workshop)
thanks for that mate, does that mean with the full manual setup i dont really need any of the other elctrics like the trans computer or tps??nzdarin wrote:I fitted a full manual value body last year. (one of Rodneys) There are 2 wires to conect to switchs etc.
One is for 4th gear which I wired to the power switch on the shifter and the other is for the lock-up torque convertor and you'll need a switch somewhere for that.
I love it as it gives you the best of both worlds. Manual control and no clutch. It is a bit rough at changing gears when there is light load but at full noise it is a super smooth change.
Just means for it to be good you HAVE to cane it all the time.
as for caning it all the time, well thats the easy bit!!!!
Gu Ute td42t, dzltech turbo, front mount and aus4wd manifold, 18 x 10 rims and 36 15.5 mickey t's for bling
Strange you say that they don't do the loom, because as I write this I'd just got off the phone from talking to them about my loom. I have to pick mine up early to fit it in my car before reassembling the dash in my new Troll.GutSquisher Media wrote:
Good luck is all I can say..
actually they dont do the loom, they get an auto spark in to do it, adn if its the same one they used on mine, hes just as fuking useless. They told me NISSAN CAN SUPPLY A WIRING LOOM.. yet they didnt use it
7 mths on the 19th this has been going on for.
Sorry I may have given the wrong impression in my first post, they don't make the loom they use a loom out of a Auto and unpick it so only the wires needed for the auto and computer are left. They may of used a auto sparky once to make looms but your experience may of change their minds.
bigpatrol89,
Yeah if you go down the full manual route you won't need the loom of the computer and auto, also if you change your mind it's possilbe to change it back to a Full Auto box at a later stage.
Was thinking of doing it that way myself, Full Manual (because it's quicker to do) then back to Full Auto (when I had the time). But me Troll got a bit delayed, so I had more time up my sleeve than I first thought I did.
Yeah if you go down the full manual route you won't need the loom of the computer and auto, also if you change your mind it's possilbe to change it back to a Full Auto box at a later stage.
Was thinking of doing it that way myself, Full Manual (because it's quicker to do) then back to Full Auto (when I had the time). But me Troll got a bit delayed, so I had more time up my sleeve than I first thought I did.
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bit delayed ???GutSquisher Media wrote:bigpatrol89,
Yeah if you go down the full manual route you won't need the loom of the computer and auto, also if you change your mind it's possilbe to change it back to a Full Auto box at a later stage.
Was thinking of doing it that way myself, Full Manual (because it's quicker to do) then back to Full Auto (when I had the time). But me Troll got a bit delayed, so I had more time up my sleeve than I first thought I did.
start a thread & show us !!
MissForbyNoob wrote:
and one day i'll just become a worthless housewife.
and one day i'll just become a worthless housewife.
Mine is there as we speak, with the auto spark working on it.. They showed me the picked clean loom weeks ago, saying they were going to use it to replace the $1000 of work the as it put to me "useless idiot auto spark" or similar did... Then they didnt replace it as they said they were going to.GutSquisher Media wrote:Strange you say that they don't do the loom, because as I write this I'd just got off the phone from talking to them about my loom. I have to pick mine up early to fit it in my car before reassembling the dash in my new Troll.
Sorry I may have given the wrong impression in my first post, they don't make the loom they use a loom out of a Auto and unpick it so only the wires needed for the auto and computer are left. They may of used a auto sparky once to make looms but your experience may of change their minds.
They have had it for 3 weeks this time, when they were having it for a week...
Funny part is "we will call you with an update"
NOT ONCE HAVE THEY! and to top it off, they had to ask me my mobile # yesterday!!! HOW THE FUK WERE THEY GOING TO CALL ME?
Last edited by bogged on Sun May 18, 2008 8:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Due to what my conversion was we started from scratch so no factory loom at all. So literally there is only 2 wires for a full manual value body! No requirement for anything else! It can be done on the floor in your garage as all you do is pull the old valve body out and fit the new one minus the acumlator piston springs. I fitted a temp gauge at the same time and that was the hardest part of the job!bigpatrol89 wrote:thanks for that mate, does that mean with the full manual setup i dont really need any of the other elctrics like the trans computer or tps??
as for caning it all the time, well thats the easy bit!!!!
Previously I'd done manual conversion that removed the computer but retained the TPS for line pressure control. It worked pretty well but was a bit complicated.
93 Nissan Pathfinder / Terrano Turboed VH45, GQ Trans and T-case, coil overs, hydraulic winch and fair bit of other stuff. (Currently a pile of parts in the workshop)
Due to what my conversion was we started from scratch so no factory loom at all. So literally there is only 2 wires for a full manual value body! No requirement for anything else! It can be done on the floor in your garage as all you do is pull the old valve body out and fit the new one minus the acumlator piston springs. I fitted a temp gauge at the same time and that was the hardest part of the job!
Previously I'd done manual conversion that removed the computer but retained the TPS for line pressure control. It worked pretty well but was a bit complicated.[/quote]
Thanks mate, thats just what i wanted to hear, no wires, no bulls*&t, just 4 gears and no damn clutch pedal
what are the two wires for you had, are they for the over drive or stall lock up??
Previously I'd done manual conversion that removed the computer but retained the TPS for line pressure control. It worked pretty well but was a bit complicated.[/quote]
Thanks mate, thats just what i wanted to hear, no wires, no bulls*&t, just 4 gears and no damn clutch pedal
what are the two wires for you had, are they for the over drive or stall lock up??
Gu Ute td42t, dzltech turbo, front mount and aus4wd manifold, 18 x 10 rims and 36 15.5 mickey t's for bling
Are we talking about the same company Bogged, when I was there on Monday they had no other patrol's there other than a tray back with a wicked TB42 motor.
I've heard of the story of a other 4x4 mod shop (which will not be named) in the same area that has fcked up a couple of manual to auto conversions.
If you have had a problem I feel for you, but be real careful about saying company names and calling people reputation into question with out going first though the proper channels.
PM. me with who and what and when your conversion was done just so I know we are talking about the same company
I've heard of the story of a other 4x4 mod shop (which will not be named) in the same area that has fcked up a couple of manual to auto conversions.
If you have had a problem I feel for you, but be real careful about saying company names and calling people reputation into question with out going first though the proper channels.
PM. me with who and what and when your conversion was done just so I know we are talking about the same company
Excellent, keep the info comingGutSquisher Media wrote:Are we talking about the same company Bogged, when I was there on Monday they had no other patrol's there other than a tray back with a wicked TB42 motor.
Lets just say, they will NEVER touch it my Patrol again. It has been a disappointment. I'll take it elsewhere to get the things fixed.
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I would have to side with Bogged here.
I wouldn't use them again either.
I know people on here don't like others saying bad about companies, but if it can save one person from having the dramas we have had then I will.
I wouldn't use them again either.
I know people on here don't like others saying bad about companies, but if it can save one person from having the dramas we have had then I will.
My club
www.vfwdc.com
My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
www.vfwdc.com
My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
One wire is for the 4th gear / over drive which you wire to the switch on the shifter to select the top gear. All the other gears are selected by moving the shifter to either 1,2 or D.bigpatrol89 wrote: Thanks mate, thats just what i wanted to hear, no wires, no bulls*&t, just 4 gears and no damn clutch pedal
what are the two wires for you had, are they for the over drive or stall lock up??
The other wire is for the lock up stall convertor. You need a switch for that. I have one on the dash with a small LED as if you stop with it on you will stall the motor.
93 Nissan Pathfinder / Terrano Turboed VH45, GQ Trans and T-case, coil overs, hydraulic winch and fair bit of other stuff. (Currently a pile of parts in the workshop)
thanks mate, i actually just re-read a few posts back where you already said that, must have been having a blonde day when i asked that q!!!!!
would it be possible to wire the o.d switch up to a swith on the steering wheel, i imagine it would be but with out seeing one i just thought i'd ask while im at it
cheers guys for all the answers
would it be possible to wire the o.d switch up to a swith on the steering wheel, i imagine it would be but with out seeing one i just thought i'd ask while im at it
cheers guys for all the answers
Gu Ute td42t, dzltech turbo, front mount and aus4wd manifold, 18 x 10 rims and 36 15.5 mickey t's for bling
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