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In my old 40 I could go from any gear to the next or previous (even 1st to reverse and back ) smoothly and silently with the exception of 5th, I could not get it in no matter what
I think I have done it in my Bundera as well, I will have to have another go
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
oh yeah i know the theory of it, like i said, i used to do it in the MQ, its just thins thing doesnt like me doing it give her time tho... the gear stick doesnt like smooth changes at the best of times mind you
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
joel HJ60 wrote:
Rev it to increase engine RPM to match it to box speed. Then clunck
How do you know when the engine RPM matches the box speed? I've read up on the theory but can't get my head around matching the speeds when downshifting????
TheOtherLeft wrote:can't get my head around matching the speeds when downshifting????
Just increase revs at a slow rate as you hold the shifter in the gate for down shift. It will fall in when they are close (syncros).
A noisy exhaust or observing the RMP and speedo is the key. Then you know where the revs are at in relation to the previous gear, not withstanding the speed variation between gears!
joel HJ60 wrote:
Rev it to increase engine RPM to match it to box speed. Then clunck
How do you know when the engine RPM matches the box speed? I've read up on the theory but can't get my head around matching the speeds when downshifting????
don't you know your car well enough???
if you know that your car pulls 3200rpm in 2nd while doing 40k's an hour, then when your downshifting to second, at 40, you need to take the revs up to 3200rpm...
and if you don't know this sort of thing, you don't pay enough attention to your car
joel HJ60 wrote:
Rev it to increase engine RPM to match it to box speed. Then clunck
How do you know when the engine RPM matches the box speed? I've read up on the theory but can't get my head around matching the speeds when downshifting????
don't you know your car well enough???
if you know that your car pulls 3200rpm in 2nd while doing 40k's an hour, then when your downshifting to second, at 40, you need to take the revs up to 3200rpm...
and if you don't know this sort of thing, you don't pay enough attention to your car
x2.
If you have had your car for a while, you should know by sound and feel when it is right. Just imagine what revs you think it will be doing in the lower gear, then rev it up to that.
Had to drive a B-Double from Albury through to canbourne once, with a broken clutch, now that was fun when you got a set of lights. Lucky it was late at night. Only got one set of lights the whole trip.
I actually don't drive the Troopy much as I have the (auto) Suzuki as a DD, hence the question, but I want to learn for more the curiousity then anything else.
Because of lower back injuries, the use of the clutch becomes quite difficult over constant use. Like in peak hour etc.
I've been driving mine without the clutch for years for this reason.
Don't always get it right, but I can still use clutch when needed.
Like starting off, parking etc.
Its been 10 years with same box.
It still feels fine, but of course I can't see inside the box.
christover
4WD SUZUKI CLUB VICTORIA
http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum/
hey guys great thread i've been doing it for years best fun ever had was in mates VX R8 6 speed i went from 2nd all the way to 6th he shit himself
(never let me drive again till i promised never to do it again i never crnched them once LOL i learnt on old tractors on bannana farms up north you had to stand up to push clutch in then you lost you head to a 80+kg bunch of bannanas lol
j-top paj wrote:ive done it on my bike for the last 17,000Ks since brand new without a drama.
except for takeoffs at lights
Don't know a lot about bikes, but I thought most of their gearboxes have all gears constantly meshed - so you don't have to use the clutch, except for smoothness. Any bike nuts like to correct me?