i'm with steve on this one...
keep it low, cut the gaurds and adjust the bumpstops to suit
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what lift for 35's?
Ive been waiting for this to come up as I have similar questions for you steve.
I have spoa toys with ruf and 35s, following your advise awhile back Ive lowered the stock bumpstops 3"in the front which gives me 2 1/4" between the u bolt plate and the bumpstop tip.
Ive raised the flares and cut out the back of the headlight bucket but I still have rubbing.
I dont want to lower the bumpstops more as it all ready is a rough ride without much up travel or is this because Im using the stock 20yr old bumpstop?
What type do you use and what is the "ideal" amount of uptravel without hurting ride quality too much?
My ruf springs are dead flat to keep it low as possible even contemplating the reverse wrap eye springs to lower it more.
And for my input on the original question I personaly would extend the w/b Im running ruf on my lwb with 35s and Id hate to be much shorter I supose it depends where and how hard you wheel.
Nik
I have spoa toys with ruf and 35s, following your advise awhile back Ive lowered the stock bumpstops 3"in the front which gives me 2 1/4" between the u bolt plate and the bumpstop tip.
Ive raised the flares and cut out the back of the headlight bucket but I still have rubbing.
I dont want to lower the bumpstops more as it all ready is a rough ride without much up travel or is this because Im using the stock 20yr old bumpstop?
What type do you use and what is the "ideal" amount of uptravel without hurting ride quality too much?
My ruf springs are dead flat to keep it low as possible even contemplating the reverse wrap eye springs to lower it more.
And for my input on the original question I personaly would extend the w/b Im running ruf on my lwb with 35s and Id hate to be much shorter I supose it depends where and how hard you wheel.
Nik
Solid axle or IFS Lux rears? and they must be reversed from there usual orientation. You must have only about 2 leaves in the rear, because all Lux springs I've stuffed around with a built like brick dunnys.Rhett wrote:lux rears in the rear suzi rear in the front. only a 50mm rear chassie exention. front hasn't been extended. spring havent been redrilled
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
MORE PICS REQ'D OF THE YELLOW ZOOKRhett wrote:95" wheelbase on a swb chassie with stock spring hangers in front and rear exended 50mm
'93 sierra WT, 2" BL, 3" TG springs, 2" zorst, CD, 235's
To do: xtractrs, bigger tyres, gears, etc
See members for pics/info
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/sutra1368130.php#1368130
To do: xtractrs, bigger tyres, gears, etc
See members for pics/info
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/sutra1368130.php#1368130
droop?http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic59798-0-asc-0.phpcjdeane10 wrote:MORE PICS REQ'D OF THE YELLOW ZOOKRhett wrote:95" wheelbase on a swb chassie with stock spring hangers in front and rear exended 50mm
back in a zook....
The new bump stops I have are ALOT bigger than the stock ones so I,ll have to shorten the extensions. What is an a good balance between up and down travel?
I have 2 1/4 uptravel and its alot more stable but the tyres are eating the guards should I keep this hight and cut more or lower it a bit more.
Once this is sorted I can adjust the shocks atm on full up they and compress fully then they limit droop.
Nik
I have 2 1/4 uptravel and its alot more stable but the tyres are eating the guards should I keep this hight and cut more or lower it a bit more.
Once this is sorted I can adjust the shocks atm on full up they and compress fully then they limit droop.
Nik
I went to Climax suspension as Ive known them for years and its across the road from work.
I was expecting to buy some but as they fit alot of airbags they remove the stock bumpstops so they said theres some grab what you want
I,ll try to get a pic, I also checked out the reverse wrap springs so you can run less lift but still have an arch in the springs.
Nik
I was expecting to buy some but as they fit alot of airbags they remove the stock bumpstops so they said theres some grab what you want
I,ll try to get a pic, I also checked out the reverse wrap springs so you can run less lift but still have an arch in the springs.
Nik
Yes, Bumpstop spacing can be used to prevent shackle inversion.
Nik, I've been going though your members photos and having a look at your setup. Here's some ideas.
A) I don't know what shocks you're running, and that might be some of the problem with your harshness. They look like Ranchos (?) If you supply a part number I might be able to get an original fitment so you have an idea of valving.
B) with 2.5" of compression to the bumpstop you shouldn't be experiencing bottoming under "normal" conditions. that's still more than a stock sierra and more than some with lift in them. That's partially why I'd point the finger at shock valving.
C) Lower your top shock mounts and go to a known soft shock like a N76 OME. These have nearly 11" of travel and should be plenty for your application. To really work the droop you can try opening up the front spring clips.
D) more droop= more articulation = you're going to be cutting more. Judging by your last members photo with the claws on, you can do a LOT more cutting yet before headlight interference becomes a problem.
E) By all means try other more progressive options, but stock sierra bumpstops (front) work well and are quite squishy. They should not be causing ride problems even if your hitting them from time to time.
We have successfully set up cars with far less compression travel than you and they ride fine. Even 1" of compression will still ride pretty good on road. Obviously hitting stuff at speed off road will cause some jarring but all things considered it's not excessive.
Steve.
Nik, I've been going though your members photos and having a look at your setup. Here's some ideas.
A) I don't know what shocks you're running, and that might be some of the problem with your harshness. They look like Ranchos (?) If you supply a part number I might be able to get an original fitment so you have an idea of valving.
B) with 2.5" of compression to the bumpstop you shouldn't be experiencing bottoming under "normal" conditions. that's still more than a stock sierra and more than some with lift in them. That's partially why I'd point the finger at shock valving.
C) Lower your top shock mounts and go to a known soft shock like a N76 OME. These have nearly 11" of travel and should be plenty for your application. To really work the droop you can try opening up the front spring clips.
D) more droop= more articulation = you're going to be cutting more. Judging by your last members photo with the claws on, you can do a LOT more cutting yet before headlight interference becomes a problem.
E) By all means try other more progressive options, but stock sierra bumpstops (front) work well and are quite squishy. They should not be causing ride problems even if your hitting them from time to time.
We have successfully set up cars with far less compression travel than you and they ride fine. Even 1" of compression will still ride pretty good on road. Obviously hitting stuff at speed off road will cause some jarring but all things considered it's not excessive.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Thanks Steve. the front shocks are explorers and are pretty stiff.
I have ome hilux shocks in the rear and it sways all over the place.
I adjusted the bumpstops under the chassis and your right makes a big difference to droop on the opposite side.
Also equals more cutting too.
I have the spring clamps opened up and the top of the 35 drops to roughly the sill line so its improving.
This post is a bit all over the place but is there an ideal amount of uptravel, does it differe between spoa and spua? Is less better?
Thanks for the help (and not pointing out the rear extended shackles there gone now but may be replaced with 1" over standard ones)
Nik
I have ome hilux shocks in the rear and it sways all over the place.
I adjusted the bumpstops under the chassis and your right makes a big difference to droop on the opposite side.
Also equals more cutting too.
I have the spring clamps opened up and the top of the 35 drops to roughly the sill line so its improving.
This post is a bit all over the place but is there an ideal amount of uptravel, does it differe between spoa and spua? Is less better?
Thanks for the help (and not pointing out the rear extended shackles there gone now but may be replaced with 1" over standard ones)
Nik
In short, the starting point for droop/compression would be 50/50, but most of our cars would be far too high if set up that way. I reckon about 2" of compression is heaps - a zook is never going to be a high speed car so it shouldn't need all that compression.
Steve.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
getting there mate!! Waiting for a box of goodys from low range off road to get here, the zook is all pulled apart pretty much ready for the lux diffs!! The centres are in at ARB at the moment getting air lockers installed.. so im waiting for all the parts at the moment!! After talking to Liam from BBM, im going to "trial" a setup similar to what he was running with the front shackles (utilising drop shackles with a RUF). Not sure how it will go, but hey.. i'll give it a shot!! 
F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear, drop shackles, inboarded ranchos, stage 4 reduction gears, 35" silverstones, 9500 winch, RUF, 1.6 EFI, swimming goggles
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