Lifted transfer

Post by **BlueSuzy** » Mon May 19, 2008 6:12 pm

Has anybody lifted the transfer case in a sierra (with a bodylift) before just using simple 2" rubbers insted of the old 1" ones?

Or i was thinking what if i was to lift the mounts, like bodylift blocks?

I know the driveshafts will be pulled out a tad more out of the spline but thats no worrys, but the jackshaft will line up better and it also looks to clear the crossmember alittle better for the front tailshaft when it has a big lift.
I was also thinking of putting a flat bashplate underneath.

Just putting up some thoughts

Post by **built4thrashing** » Mon May 19, 2008 7:31 pm

if you lift the case too much it will put the driveshaft angles out. especially the jackshaft.

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Mon May 19, 2008 8:37 pm

Yes, you can lift the transfer. I've done two cars at 35mm and one at 50mm.

All the cars are SPUA with shackles and lifted springs. Driveline angles are fine and the reduction in jackshaft angle has an amazing effect on vibration at speed. You'll be amazed.

Steve.

Post by **CairnsZook** » Mon May 19, 2008 8:49 pm

I was thinking of using mounts like these -

http://www.industrysearch.com.au/Produc ... rical-4858

Not sure how strong they'll be though.

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Mon May 19, 2008 8:59 pm

I use urethane versions, I have discussed this in a couple of threads, including Danks 4AGE thread, especially the importance of lining up the gearbox and transfer.

Steve.

Post by **BlueSuzy** » Mon May 19, 2008 9:03 pm

The reason being i have vibration, after a trip with a load and played with 2" springs and super shackles.. the springs have sagged alittle so the diff flange is looking up higher then the angle of the tailshaft.

I am guessing thats wats giving me huge vibration...

So the 50mm lift it is, it will reduce the angle. Hopefully. Thanks gwagen

Also those rubbers i have used them before for generators etc, id be worryed about using them for twist applications, the studs arnt right through the mount either..

Post by **VR Rodeo** » Mon May 19, 2008 9:24 pm

Gwagensteve wrote:Yes, you can lift the transfer. I've done two cars at 35mm and one at 50mm.

All the cars are SPUA with shackles and lifted springs. Driveline angles are fine and the reduction in jackshaft angle has an amazing effect on vibration at speed. You'll be amazed.

Steve.

Did either of those cars have a body lift ? I would like to do the transfer lift but don't have a bodylift and dont want to mod the tunnel either.

Post by **BlueSuzy** » Mon May 19, 2008 10:21 pm

You will need a bodylift i think... youll be lucky to get 20mm before it hits the breather without driving movements.

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Mon May 19, 2008 10:27 pm

Yep, you'd need a BL to lift more than about 20mm, less if you have a transfer breather fitted.

Steve.

Post by **ofr57** » Mon May 19, 2008 10:34 pm

with mine its lifted about 32 - 40mm with a roctoy ring + 2 inch BL the clears the tunnel about 3mm

50mm i would presume there cutting or hammering in place to get it to fit

Post by **VR Rodeo** » Mon May 19, 2008 10:42 pm

Damn !! cheers guys

Post by **VR Rodeo** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 4:22 pm

VR Rodeo wrote:
Gwagensteve wrote:Yes, you can lift the transfer. I've done two cars at 35mm and one at 50mm.

All the cars are SPUA with shackles and lifted springs. Driveline angles are fine and the reduction in jackshaft angle has an amazing effect on vibration at speed. You'll be amazed.

Steve.
Did either of those cars have a body lift ? I would like to do the transfer lift but don't have a bodylift and dont want to mod the tunnel either.

Well this is what is required if you dont have a bodylift, as you can tell I got over not wanting to mod the tunnel. I raised it about 30 mm and now have a flat belly

It's only sitting in there on wooden blocks at the moment, but has at least 10mm clearance all round which will hopefully be enough. The passenger seat will need to be raised around 5 mm drivers seat will be fine, I just need to reinforce the front bolt hole a bit. I will need to mod the hole for the stick as it will hit too. Below is a pic of my gearbox cross member and the drain bolt on the transfer case is badly gouged as well which is why I did the mod.

Post by **jazuki** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 7:21 pm

im just in the process of lifting the transfer with no body lift , i ended up having to do alot more cutting than expected, i managed to leave the floor on the passengers side by making a new transfer case mount on that side .
I also kept caught on the gear box cross member so i have chopped it off and re mounted it flush with the bottom of the chassis , this will also hopefully allow me to run a flat skid plate.

New transfer mount

I,ve just realised i have to chop the foot well to get clearance for the front drive shaft.

Post by **jimbo jones** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 8:47 am

I lifted mine a 1" & a 1/4 with a rock toy ring with 2" body lift just had to knock in the bottom corner of the tunnel to fit and no vibations at all

Post by **wideaz** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 12:16 pm

i have used 2 inch blocks of box steel to life my tranny up though i have a 2 inch body lift
the tranny clears everything fine and beather has plenty of room
i would recoomend this to anyone
under belly clearance now is great compared to before

cost me all up like 50 bucks installed

vibration is less than befor but there is still some vibration but who cares
when your running 33s nothing is normal in the car anymore lol

Post by **built4thrashing** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 7:26 pm

my t/case is lifted but i used some suspension bushes from the rear trailing arms of a falcon. Lifted the case by just over 1 inch. cost me $30 for new bushes and i used a few old 8.8 bolts that i already had. tool less than 10 mins.

B4T

Post by **Adsport** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:35 pm

just to bring these two together :

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic158761-0-asc-30.php

Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Lifted transfer

Lifted transfer

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