buying a bundy

[David.T]

hey al,in th verry near future im looking at buying a deisel bundy.just was wondering what to look for as in what problems r a comon ocourence..if anyone has and experience (looking in ur direction bundy owners) so yerr, hh the plan was put a toughf dog 4in sus lift under her and some 35in radial claws,,,and aventualy reduction gears..
lol but its easy to say now.hah

so yerr any advice wud be great,seeing i have no idea what o look for,owning a petrol 40 all my like
thanks for the help....or critosisum...

[bigcam]

first thing everyone will say dont buy one...

but i disagree im kind of attached now..they can be a great little truck.

first thing check very carefully for rust in the roof along the sides near the gutters, they pretty much all have it, it may be properly repaired, badly bogged or untouched, but can mean the death of a body (trust me!) i would go for the soft top version and then you can have it as a ute, but watch for rust in the front windscreen frame on the soft tops.

the diesels are a strong motor, slow but strong, check for head gasket leas or chemi weld in the coolant and the clutch fan for not locking up when hot, overheating is common.

check the vacuum actuation of 4wd works and there are no noises in the gearbox/diffs, check the front diff doesnt have any noises (broken teeth) as they are high pinion can break reversing up hills.

4" lift is acheivable with 80 seris front springs (standard in the front and HD in the rear) and shocks of your choice careful as on the back one side is pin to eye the other eye to eye, might catch you out.

second thing flex is not a bundy's best point so save up and put front and rear lockers in, the LSD isnt worth the special oil in toyota's!
castor correction bushes and plates are not available for bundy except the late 80's early 90's ones where 80 series will fit, you can however burn out your existing bushes leaving the metal outer section in the arm and press 80 series bushes into that.

a top mount cooler, radiator check bit of extra fuel and boost will see a bundy happily cruise along and be fine in low range just dont expect to set any land speed records in one, it aint going to happen. parts are pretty easy to get and not too bad on the wallet, they arent as economical as you would think about 12l/100k's maybe more if flogging it.

all in all im happy with mine, i give it a hiding and it doesnt let me down (too often) so i say go for it. but keep in mind you will probably end up with an 80 series or GQ eventually, but are a great truck to learn in. the SWB can be a bit daunting at first but you get used to the feeling you are going to roll, this can be eased by going to a 1" BL and 2" suspension lift and bigger offset rime (series 51 rockcrawler extreme offsets) or similar. 35's are probably a bit big for a bundy without gearing as they are underpowered, with the little hilux diffs i would go a 33" or a 34" trekker/swamper etc. nice blend of having some power and still having diff clearance.

mud in the rear brakes can be a PITA, but same with any drum brake 4wd.

hope that helps

cam

[dumbdunce]

go for it, they are tops. there was one on carsales at hornsby that I looked at, it had a 5L (3.0) motor in it, twin locked, winch, drawers, recovery gear etc, $10k he was asking.

you can disk brake the rear fairly cheaply.

there are tricks to make them flex better but they don't really need it, the wheels are so close together they are all on the same obstacle most of the time anyway. they do need lockers, the LSD isn't worth a pinch of goat poo.

the 2L-TII engine from 1990 (square headlights give it away) is the pick but very, very hard to find. the earlier 2L-T will benefit from intercooling, a free exhaust, and about 12psi boost (8 is standard). that is the absolute limit of the factory CT20 turbo installed.

they are very tippy and a small (1") body lift is worthwhile. nobody makes a suspension kit for them greater than 2" however you can get good resuts experiementing with 80 series front springs front and rear. 80 series stocker front shocs work on the front, you have to mix and match on the rear. 3 - 4" suspension with 1" body lift should clear the 35's. make a set of sliders and replace the rear barlets with some tube, and get the reduction gears with the UNDERdrive high range - they are necessary with bigger tyres as the diffs are already 4.88:1, so not really anywhere to go.

you'll grow out of it but not for ages. you might even find the video of me driving winchbreak pass in my last bundy floating around the net somewhere.

Bundy Monkey off this board bought it off me a few years ago and fitted a lexus V8, it lives on.

cheers

DD

[gotoy]

and get the reduction gears with the UNDERdrive high range - they are necessary with bigger tyres as the diffs are already 4.88:1, so not really anywhere to go.

Hey dumbdunce, appreciate if you could explain teh reduction gears with the UNDERdrive high range a little more. I want to do this.

Bundy Monkey off this board bought it off me a few years ago and fitted a lexus V8, it lives on.

cheers

DD

Wow...a 1Uz in a bundy........

[evanstaniland]

bundys are an addictive little machine!!

i got mine stock with sagging suspension!! i put a 2" suspension lift a 2" body lift and 33s were a nice fit!! i got some reasonable flex out of the rear..nothing to brag about but not that bad!! t
the front on the other hand lacks movement!! you do get used to lifting wheels and when you get conformable with it do that you tend to drive harder i removed the sway bar form mine but maybe an x-link might give it some more movement??

i went all out with mine andbuild it for Tuff Truck, wanting to build somthing differend i kept the bundy body...well part of it..

heres s some pic of it with the 2" sus and 2" body and 31s




typical bundy lifting wheels





and now!!



Evan