Rovertym front radius arms

[110 TUFF]

Hi guys been looking at the cranked front arms made by rovertym, by the looks their pretty solid . thinking about using them on my 110 to correct the front end once i do my 3-4 inch lift.

Has any one had much experinence with these? are they wider then the stock item?

Any likes / dislikes?


cheers , Drew

[Slunnie]

I'm not definite here Drew, so I could be speaking rubbish, but I'm not sure if you can run them on the road. I don't think you can go welding forged parts or something like that. They are probably pefectly fine though.


As I said, I'm not sure about it though so its probably worth checking.

[Slunnie]

Here we are:

Suspension
Besides assuring a comfortable ride, a vehicle’s suspension system controls wheel movement for
handling and road holding. Manufacturers conduct extensive test programs to develop suitable
suspension settings. Adjustments, such as lowering the vehicle, can upset the suspension characteristics
and cause unpredictable handling. Generally, roll stabilizer bars, axle locating rods, upgraded shock
absorbers or upgraded springs may be used provided they are suitable for the vehicle and are properly
fitted. However, the following suspension modifications are not acceptable:
a) welding forged components such as stub axles or control arms;
b) fitting longer, non-standard shackles to leaf springs; and
c) fitting any additional components or altering the suspension so that the wheels or tyres may contact
any component under the full range of suspension and steering travel.
d) fitting any additional components or altering the suspension ride height so that any part of the
vehicle other than a wheel or tyre can contact the road in the event of a tyre deflation.
If major changes to the suspension (such as substitution of a non standard front cross member) are carried
out, they should be done under the strict guidance of an engineering signatory.

From:
http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/ ... /vsi06.pdf

BUT: You will notice that Sam has heated his radius arms on the tube buggy using a blow torch and not welded anything - perhaps this may be a loophole you could further investigate.

[110 TUFF]

Gee, thanks slunnie that could change a few of my plans as i want my truck as a daily driver , is there another way that you know of that will correct my castor once i lift my truck 3-4 inches? do you think heating and bending the front arms would make them weaker?

Drew.

[Slunnie]

The bending I think relates more back to where the radius arm passes through the chassis bush, and trying to prevent bind happening there.

In terms of castor correction, I think Bruce Davis in Sydney has different swivel ball things that are in a different position that will correct the castor. They also wont interfere with you prop shaft angles. I understand the radius arms that correct castor can also introduce vibrations from sending the UJ's too far out of phase - mind you, you will probably need to run a Disco2 double cardin front to prevent vibrations anyway.

To be honest with you I have tinkered heaps with the Disco2, though it is a totally different setup to the defender when you look at it closer, so I would confirm anything I've said. I'm pretty sure its all correct though.

[Slunnie]

Another thing some people do, if you are not locking the front, is run the Detroit TrueTrac in the front. This is also supposed to correct castor symptoms, and if you have ETC, the ETC is supposed to basically lock the TT if its going to wheel spin.

[110 TUFF]

Thanks slunnie, I might start a new post and see if any one else knows more about this, I tried to find info on this from department of transport (Queensland), but have had no luck. i bet its probbaly the same as NSW though.

thanks for the info, Drew

[tiggr]

Hey mate i brought a set of the front and rear with the spacer and fitted it up , and it totally transformed my whole car / ride and steering ! I drive mine almost daily and never had any dramas at all .I run Pro Comp MX6 shockies as well with Scorpion Racing 3 inch over springs .
I have never ever had mine over the RTA and dont plan to fund their xmas party with paying for permits .

[110 TUFF]

hi tiggr,

so it sounds like your impressed with them! they look the goods.
do they improve your travel much?
was the spacer easy to fit?

i think i would still consider geting a set. i suppose i could get a engineer to aprove them??? ( if i get caught that is ). Hey can you remember how much the lot set you back by any chance?

cheers, Drew

[tiggr]

I got mine about 7 months ago , they were $500 for the front and $500 for the rear and $210 for the spacer AUS , with no core charge , the spacer was apiece of cake to fit .
I got mine from a guy in W.A. who imports direct rom the USA and he builds race Rovers , but the freight company was baaadddd !! they lost it , found it and delivered it like 4 weeks later !!! When they finally arrived and i fitted them up oh what a difference !!! I run Procomp MX6 shockies front n rear and they are 680mm extended in the rear and 630mm in the front and the arms run a treat !! Extended brake lines by 100mm and next will be some of Sam's bushes when money permitts ! The only thing i wish i got was 35inch tyres whilst i had all the money , but the 255 x 85x 16's are great .

[110 TUFF]

Thats it youve convinced me, first thing after christmas im geting a front and rear set and the spacer, i think the fella over in WA is rovercraft. going to sus him out for my springs as well. when i get the arms im going to get sams bushes at the same time. I had maxi drive axles and the flanges installed front and rear for the future set of 35's

Ill try and do some before and after shots and post them when it happens.

Cheers, Drew.

[bazzle]

Why not redrill the flange where the axle housing joins the diff housing?
This will correcr caster and leave driveline angles alone.
I think Rangie spares does this

Bazzle

[HSV Rangie]

Brad C in Perth brings in Rover tym parts.
500 for front and 500 for rear AU dollars.

Rangie spares redrils the swivel housings, along with others in NSW.
First get a wheel alignment from someone who does a good job, get the print out from them showing what the castor is, send this along with housings to get redrilled.

the other oprtion is to crank your own arms.

Michael.