Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
paj idler arms
Moderator: -Scott-
paj idler arms
Are the idler arms on pajeros all the same between models? eg diesel to petrol? nh to nl? Making a stronger one so need imfo if there is a better one available to start with.
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
they don't break, they bend the shaft which then results in the steering wheel off to one side when driving straigh and the alignment with too much toe in. Because the car is lifted much higher than standard(in my case with bj spacers) the angle of the tie rod down to the wheel is at about 45° to the connecting rod thingy and when the left wheel comes down after lifting it(paj salute) it pushes upwards and bends the shaft. I've bent 2 now and grantw has bent 3. Maybe its the hard rutty tracks up here in qld. Peter Goodman? who had is gen 1 paj in 4wd monthly a while back had a strengthend idler arm on his, it was a little bit agricultural but looks like it would do the job.
mike.
mike.
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
I've never had a problem with the idler arm or tie rods for that matter (touch wood).
Mike, DougH was having the same problem with his rig, I wonder if it's because of the balljoint flip which he did (but he hasn't got the spacers).
The Gen 1 & 2 idlers are different but I think there were running changes to later 3.5 V6's but nothing dramatic, might pay to have a gander at a later model just to check.
With the front Detroit and swaybar disconnect I decided not to do this mod for fear of extra breakages.
Mike, DougH was having the same problem with his rig, I wonder if it's because of the balljoint flip which he did (but he hasn't got the spacers).
The Gen 1 & 2 idlers are different but I think there were running changes to later 3.5 V6's but nothing dramatic, might pay to have a gander at a later model just to check.
With the front Detroit and swaybar disconnect I decided not to do this mod for fear of extra breakages.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
my idler arm shaft is flogged out like a 50 year old hoe
but i have never bent anything
tie rods will bend there stength is when they are horizontel not at 45deg
i wont do a ball joint flip the cvs run at enough of a angle with cranked torsion bars on chopped stops
i know have to replace my lower bump stops to standard because my new tires rub when they flex into the wheel arch
but i have never bent anything
tie rods will bend there stength is when they are horizontel not at 45deg
i wont do a ball joint flip the cvs run at enough of a angle with cranked torsion bars on chopped stops
i know have to replace my lower bump stops to standard because my new tires rub when they flex into the wheel arch
haven't had any probs with cv shaft breakage yet with the bj spacers in. mine is lifted quite high in the front to match the rear because i got a fair bit more lift than expected with the lighter rear end(ie no roof) when it was wound up to match and with chopped bumpstops, i had about 10mm gap and it used to "bang" when the wheels went to full droop. very f**king annoying, so thats the main reason for the spacers. i still to this day haven't measured how much wheel travel there is between standard and mine. one day i will. some day i will do alot of things.
mike.
mike.
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
Hey,
I have bending them too. I bend that stupid fawking shaft so hard that I wasnt able to flatten it out with a 100ton press. Pisses me off big time. Enough that I havent really been wheeling the hunk of crap.
I will be looking at getting a stronger setup maybe.
What about longer tierods that are placed further in on a custom center link.
This would reduce the angle.
I have no clue what sort of affect it would have on bumpsteer, or steering in general though.
Atleast if we have the genI setup, it would be cheap to fix.
I have bending them too. I bend that stupid fawking shaft so hard that I wasnt able to flatten it out with a 100ton press. Pisses me off big time. Enough that I havent really been wheeling the hunk of crap.
I will be looking at getting a stronger setup maybe.
What about longer tierods that are placed further in on a custom center link.
This would reduce the angle.
I have no clue what sort of affect it would have on bumpsteer, or steering in general though.
Atleast if we have the genI setup, it would be cheap to fix.
DougH
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
I'll second that about Errol! I met him at the Mits Muster in Brisbane in '97. I drove from Alice Springs, across the Simpson Desert, to get there. Problem was, 1/2 way across the Simpson my transfer case stuck in 4-HI. Lucky 4-HI & not 4-LO!! Anyways, got to the Muster & he fixed me up in 30 minutes. Knew exactly what the problem was.
Thanks again Errol from a Yank!
Charlie
Thanks again Errol from a Yank!
Charlie
Hey Frank,
Do you think you could try and find me a cheap steering box in one of your junk yards? It doesnt have to be in working condition.
I have been looking for some here in the US for you guys, but all the ones I have found so far have been big money.
Do you think you could try and find me a cheap steering box in one of your junk yards? It doesnt have to be in working condition.
I have been looking for some here in the US for you guys, but all the ones I have found so far have been big money.
DougH
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
mmm, everytime i get keen to start using the pajero i c these threads and think i should stick to the maverick as it is more reliable. Our/her Pajero is a 3.5 DOHC. Is that a Gen 1,2 or what. Should i worry about bending idler shafts with my car with 265 AT's and ARB locker when it comes out?
Yes ERROL is good, if it is the ERROL i know. Used to be called GOD when he used to race the Pajero. My wife used to b in the Mitsub club. Is looking at joining again now she has the Pajero.
Thanks Guys
Yes ERROL is good, if it is the ERROL i know. Used to be called GOD when he used to race the Pajero. My wife used to b in the Mitsub club. Is looking at joining again now she has the Pajero.
Thanks Guys
No don't worry about bending idler arms.
The guys that have been having trouble have done upper balljoint modifications that evidence points to causing the problem.
It is not a common problem.
There is also evidence that running 35" + tyres on early model Paj's can cause tie rod end breakages (that I can understand).
I have had a 2.5" torsion bar lift at the front for 3 years and my Paj cops a hiding I can tell you. Only now do I have to re-bush my idler arm due to steering slop. I will use one of the Nolathane bushes (about $20) and do it myself then send it for a wheel alignment.
Most of that time I've been running 33x12.5x15 BFG muds.
Yes yours is a Gen 2 model.
Gen 1 is 82-91 (square boxy shape).
Gen 2 is 91-99 larger more rounded shape with super select t/case.
Gen 3 99 on IRS monocoque construction (no chassis).
The guys that have been having trouble have done upper balljoint modifications that evidence points to causing the problem.
It is not a common problem.
There is also evidence that running 35" + tyres on early model Paj's can cause tie rod end breakages (that I can understand).
I have had a 2.5" torsion bar lift at the front for 3 years and my Paj cops a hiding I can tell you. Only now do I have to re-bush my idler arm due to steering slop. I will use one of the Nolathane bushes (about $20) and do it myself then send it for a wheel alignment.
Most of that time I've been running 33x12.5x15 BFG muds.
Yes yours is a Gen 2 model.
Gen 1 is 82-91 (square boxy shape).
Gen 2 is 91-99 larger more rounded shape with super select t/case.
Gen 3 99 on IRS monocoque construction (no chassis).
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Bitsamissin wrote: Only now do I have to re-bush my idler arm due to steering slop. I will use one of the Nolathane bushes (about $20) and do it myself then send it for a wheel alignment.
Frank,
Please take pictures when you do this. I looked at my idler arm, and dissasembled them. It didnt look like there was any possible way to rebush the housing. Either I am missing something in the part assembly or you have a different type of arm. Mine is more of an arm assembly.
DougH
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest