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How strong is the LT230??
Moderator: Micka
How strong is the LT230??
Anybody broken or heard of breakages in a LT230 transfer case??
Just wondering how strong they are - has anybody broken a rear output or the gears or is the centre diff the weak point??
Personally I dont know of any failures of a LT230 in good condition that has been broken through overload. Although it may have something to do with the weak rover axles
Sam
Just wondering how strong they are - has anybody broken a rear output or the gears or is the centre diff the weak point??
Personally I dont know of any failures of a LT230 in good condition that has been broken through overload. Although it may have something to do with the weak rover axles
Sam
I hear that it's one thing LR got right.... they don't really bust
Mate of mine is a LR mech... says the only thing that goes wrong with them are:
. Center diff.... shites itself if not used correctly or at all
. they get on the loud side if the oil runs out of them... thats a no brianer
. rear out put shafts have know to twist under extrem abuse (i guess with upgraded axles)
aprt from those few problems he says not much else happens IF they are serviced reg.. I guess the LR's he services don't really get the abuse to do anyother damage
HTH
Mate of mine is a LR mech... says the only thing that goes wrong with them are:
. Center diff.... shites itself if not used correctly or at all
. they get on the loud side if the oil runs out of them... thats a no brianer
. rear out put shafts have know to twist under extrem abuse (i guess with upgraded axles)
aprt from those few problems he says not much else happens IF they are serviced reg.. I guess the LR's he services don't really get the abuse to do anyother damage
HTH
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
i think i read somewhere that the army used to do some sort of 'shaft' conversion to the lt230 so that in low range the gears meshed about 5mm? more. maybe maxidrive did it?
fwiw bcb in the states make a nice part time conversion for the lt230.
some interesting pics for gearheads on their site- BCB OFFROAD
modman
fwiw bcb in the states make a nice part time conversion for the lt230.
some interesting pics for gearheads on their site- BCB OFFROAD
modman
When I added maxidrive crawler gears to my disco I replaced lots of other bits as well, that all had a fair bit of wear on a car thats only done 90K.
Bits replaced, front output shaft, centre diff cross shafts, both output flanges, high range gears.
But the gearbox output shaft was in perfect condition. Go figure.
My transfer case is now worth halve the value of my car.
Bits replaced, front output shaft, centre diff cross shafts, both output flanges, high range gears.
But the gearbox output shaft was in perfect condition. Go figure.
My transfer case is now worth halve the value of my car.
John D
Defender 110 2.4
Defender 110 2.4
A friend of mine offroad races a 110 ute with an alloy Rodec V8 (they are used in sprint cars). It produces around 450 BHP. He used to run a LT85 Santana 5 speed with LT230 transcase. He would strip the teeth off 3rd gear about every 3-4 races. Now he uses a LT95 4spd which he has adapted to accept a LT230 transcase. problem solved. He has never had a failure from the LT230 in atleast 10 years of racing.
i had a lt230 centre diff shit the tin and jam. in my infinite wisdom i thought i was just jammed in diff lock so as i was 1000k's from home i just keep driving it and once i got home i thought i should have a look and discovered that i wasnt jammed in d/lock the centre diff had broken a cross shaft and luckly for me jammed the diff causeing it to transfer drive still!!! the resident l/rover guru here in perth (kevin from jordan rover tech) tells me that u should lock the centre diff basically as soon as u leave the bitumen to prevent overheating the centre diff and prematurly wearing the spider gear brass thrust plates. he all so recommends a mixture of moreys oil stablilser and normal eng oil (about 1 litre of moreys i think) and the certainly shut me transfer box up as i had to fit a second amp to my stereo otherwise u couldnt hear it on the highway!! also made it easy to select high and low range too.
Lucus wrote:i had a lt230 centre diff shit the tin and jam. in my infinite wisdom i thought i was just jammed in diff lock so as i was 1000k's from home i just keep driving it and once i got home i thought i should have a look and discovered that i wasnt jammed in d/lock the centre diff had broken a cross shaft and luckly for me jammed the diff causeing it to transfer drive still!!! the resident l/rover guru here in perth (kevin from jordan rover tech) tells me that u should lock the centre diff basically as soon as u leave the bitumen to prevent overheating the centre diff and prematurly wearing the spider gear brass thrust plates. he all so recommends a mixture of moreys oil stablilser and normal eng oil (about 1 litre of moreys i think) and the certainly shut me transfer box up as i had to fit a second amp to my stereo otherwise u couldnt hear it on the highway!! also made it easy to select high and low range too.
Engine oil or gear Oil???
I know that Moreys is good stuff. If it is Moreys and ENGINE oil is anyone else running this mixture?????
Or was it a typo???
Engine oil chief. moreys brings the viscoscity up a coupla points but i get the impression it helps to keep the poor lil gears in the centre diff from cooking. gear oil is good for 80 to 90 degress c. as u would know engine oil is good for a whole lot more and i dont really know what moreys is good for but in know this shit kicks arse. i use penrite hpr 30 and it works a treat.
modman wrote:nugget, did your mate cut off the existing transfer case in the lt95.
i thought they were very strong and the gearing was the same as the lt230??
and i must have pics of that car!!!!
modman
Yes he did cut the transfer case off the LT95. He used the dummy shaft from a torqueflite 727 from a Range Rover between the two. The overall length has only increased 1 inch so no mods required with prop shafts. He was constantly melting the shims in the LT95 case. He also had the tappered roller bearing mod done as I believe is also done on the army 110's but still it couldn't cope. He drives to events with trailer in tow, races for two days, packs up and drives home! He uses 1.003:1 gears
a mate ran hpr30 penrite with nulon additive in his m21 g'box in his comodore and it lasted heaps longer than running straight gear oil.
POS wrote:Lucus wrote:i had a lt230 centre diff shit the tin and jam. in my infinite wisdom i thought i was just jammed in diff lock so as i was 1000k's from home i just keep driving it and once i got home i thought i should have a look and discovered that i wasnt jammed in d/lock the centre diff had broken a cross shaft and luckly for me jammed the diff causeing it to transfer drive still!!! the resident l/rover guru here in perth (kevin from jordan rover tech) tells me that u should lock the centre diff basically as soon as u leave the bitumen to prevent overheating the centre diff and prematurly wearing the spider gear brass thrust plates. he all so recommends a mixture of moreys oil stablilser and normal eng oil (about 1 litre of moreys i think) and the certainly shut me transfer box up as i had to fit a second amp to my stereo otherwise u couldnt hear it on the highway!! also made it easy to select high and low range too.
Engine oil or gear Oil???
I know that Moreys is good stuff. If it is Moreys and ENGINE oil is anyone else running this mixture?????
Or was it a typo???
see ya mav
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