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fat bars
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
In my experience cheezy bars arent that strong anyway.icrawl wrote:they dont look as strong as cheezy bar
I hit a tree at maybe 10km/hr or less on a slippery clay uphill run. The wing bent in and the middle of the bar twisted stopping the winch from working. The left side of my GQ got smashed up.
The grill, headlight, indicator, guard needed replacing and I need to send the car to a panel beater to align the drivers side panels again. Now when I fit a guard the drivers door wont open. As a temporary fix I have cut the back of a guard to give the door room.


The bar in this picture hit a tree at about 40, also on the drivers side, and while it bent a little bit, no panels were touched.
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r3/d ... age004.jpg
If you want strength then maybe a comp bar isnt the best idea. They look the goods though.
Last edited by dansedgli on Tue Jun 10, 2008 1:25 pm, edited 3 times in total.
SWB mav. Some mods.
You might be right but I thought it would have done better than it did because of the low speed I was doing.
As I said, A mate was driving my car and hit a tree going much faster with my old bar and it barely moved.
Everyone preaches that cheezy type comp bars are better than everything else. I guess I got caught up in the hype.
As I said, A mate was driving my car and hit a tree going much faster with my old bar and it barely moved.
Everyone preaches that cheezy type comp bars are better than everything else. I guess I got caught up in the hype.

SWB mav. Some mods.
I hit a tree with my old tube bar (made by Brooksy)at around 10-15k and didnt do anything except scratch it, I guess the design and tube has something to do with it.
Last edited by booflux on Fri Jun 06, 2008 12:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Toy: 98 TJ with some mods and some bling
Tourer and daily: 120 Prado with some mods
Tourer and daily: 120 Prado with some mods
I am no expert and even I know that tube varies greatly in strength and quality. If not why do CCDA specs etc recommend minimum strength ratings and style.joeblow wrote:15kph impact and 40kph impact are very different. like i said, tube is tube.
Toy: 98 TJ with some mods and some bling
Tourer and daily: 120 Prado with some mods
Tourer and daily: 120 Prado with some mods
I'd like to hear a SENSIBLE answer to this as well.booflux wrote:I am no expert and even I know that tube varies greatly in strength and quality. If not why do CCDA specs etc recommend minimum strength ratings and style.joeblow wrote:15kph impact and 40kph impact are very different. like i said, tube is tube.
[quote="Harb"]Well I'm guessing that they didn't think everyone would carry on like a big bunch of sooky girls over it like they have........[/quote]
dansedgli, you hit any bar write on the outer corner like that and its going to bend. It is the weakest spot.
I`d like to see the front of your rig if you didn`t have any bar.
EVERY single bar on the market has a weak spot, hit the bar in that spot and its going to crumble like paper.
I tapped the ARB I used to have on my hilux on a stump and I mean tapped, you know when your edging up to touch something, well it bent it just doing that.
In saying all this if you want a bar that will give max protection then a tube bar is not going to be what you want.
I`d like to see the front of your rig if you didn`t have any bar.
EVERY single bar on the market has a weak spot, hit the bar in that spot and its going to crumble like paper.
I tapped the ARB I used to have on my hilux on a stump and I mean tapped, you know when your edging up to touch something, well it bent it just doing that.
In saying all this if you want a bar that will give max protection then a tube bar is not going to be what you want.
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Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 8:28 pm
Location: West of Woodridge, North of Ipswich, South of Oxley, East of Wacol
if you want to cure that, you need a bar going from the corner (weakspot) to the chassis rail on a 45degree angle, or suitably brace it if less angle is needed
'98 Jackaroo
Bullbar, 32" muddies, Homebrew Timber centre console, Homebrew 3" Stainless rubber bend snorkel, Homebrew Steel rear bumper, Campervan interior
Bullbar, 32" muddies, Homebrew Timber centre console, Homebrew 3" Stainless rubber bend snorkel, Homebrew Steel rear bumper, Campervan interior
Posts: 1931
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:29 am
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:29 am
Location: Everything 4WD, 86 Camms Rd Cranbourne
Contact:
The tube that Stu uses on the FAT bars are of a very high quality.
There were some pics of his GU from when he hit a tree at about 60KM (from memory) and there wasn't as much damage as that GQ above.
To say tube is tube, implying there would be no difference in these bars is just ridiculous.
There were some pics of his GU from when he hit a tree at about 60KM (from memory) and there wasn't as much damage as that GQ above.
To say tube is tube, implying there would be no difference in these bars is just ridiculous.
My club
www.vfwdc.com
My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
www.vfwdc.com
My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
I am far to intelligent to get into an ARB vs Cheesy vs FAT bar contest, but the tube could be made from "unobtainium" and it still be vulnerable if it takes an impact on the end of the bar, it is basic physics.GUJohnno wrote:The tube that Stu uses on the FAT bars are of a very high quality.
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
I spoke to Mark this morning and he said he can straighten it up for me but to have a go using the winch to pull it out again first. I might ask about getting some scrub bars added on to increase its strength and provide some extra protection when I go in friday.chikoroll_ wrote:if you want to cure that, you need a bar going from the corner (weakspot) to the chassis rail on a 45degree angle, or suitably brace it if less angle is needed
The Mav is going in Friday to have a cheezy rear bar fitted.

I didnt mean to start an argument on here. I just wanted to point out that in my experience the comp bar wouldnt protect your car that much when hitting a tree. If the dumbass behind the wheel didnt hit the tree in the first place there wouldnt be an issue.

I still think the cheezy bars look great and would get another. I would take it a bit easier next time I attack that track though.
SWB mav. Some mods.
X unobtainiumdroopypete wrote:I am far to intelligent to get into an ARB vs Cheesy vs FAT bar contest, but the tube could be made from "unobtainium" and it still be vulnerable if it takes an impact on the end of the bar, it is basic physics.GUJohnno wrote:The tube that Stu uses on the FAT bars are of a very high quality.
Peter.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
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http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
Posts: 1931
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:29 am
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:29 am
Location: Everything 4WD, 86 Camms Rd Cranbourne
Contact:
This is my point about the type of bar used.dansedgli wrote:but to have a go using the winch to pull it out again first.
There would be no way you could winch the bar work out on the FAT bar I used to have, the steel was too strong for that.
My club
www.vfwdc.com
My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
www.vfwdc.com
My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
The steel is almost irrelevant (unless it is unobtainium or exhaust tube) most of the strength comes from the design.GUJohnno wrote:This is my point about the type of bar used.dansedgli wrote:but to have a go using the winch to pull it out again first.
There would be no way you could winch the bar work out on the FAT bar I used to have, the steel was too strong for that.
Peter.
Ps, can you get unobtainium exhaust tube?

Cable bracing is the way of the future!
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
You could ring Stu from FAT direct 93039850.
I sell his bars because they are built strong. He is fastidious with the materials he uses and the build quality of his bars.
We used a custom bar of his in the cliff hanger and OBC and moved alot of shit with it and no damage to speak of.
Dan
I sell his bars because they are built strong. He is fastidious with the materials he uses and the build quality of his bars.
We used a custom bar of his in the cliff hanger and OBC and moved alot of shit with it and no damage to speak of.
Dan
[quote="Uhhohh"]As far as an indecent proposal goes, I'd accept nothing less than $100,000 to tolerate buggery. Any less and it's just not worth the psychological trauma. [/quote]
our web site is
www.freedomautotech.com
The combination of material and design make a strong bar.
if you were to use a 250mpa CHS pipe with the same physical dimentions as the 500mpa CDS tube i use it will be half as strong, thats simple maths.
If you put a 45 deg brace back to your chassis you WILL bend your chassis, i would rather the bar bend than a chassis.
Stu
www.freedomautotech.com
The combination of material and design make a strong bar.
if you were to use a 250mpa CHS pipe with the same physical dimentions as the 500mpa CDS tube i use it will be half as strong, thats simple maths.
If you put a 45 deg brace back to your chassis you WILL bend your chassis, i would rather the bar bend than a chassis.

Stu
[quote="COOP"] By the way Mr engineering Guru maybe you better get another calculator or learn how to use it![/quote]
www.indurooffroad.com
44mm and 38mm Roll Cage Tube
Eibach Springs SAW Shocks
www.indurooffroad.com
44mm and 38mm Roll Cage Tube
Eibach Springs SAW Shocks
You can only get nuecular unobtainioum exhaust tube .. it is sold in 4 foot lengths from some bunnings outlets ..droopypete wrote:The steel is almost irrelevant (unless it is unobtainium or exhaust tube) most of the strength comes from the design.GUJohnno wrote:This is my point about the type of bar used.dansedgli wrote:but to have a go using the winch to pull it out again first.
There would be no way you could winch the bar work out on the FAT bar I used to have, the steel was too strong for that.
Peter.
Ps, can you get unobtainium exhaust tube?
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
I know its pointless. But just to add fuel to the fire, I clipped a car with the d/s corner of my old bar, and it just bounced back, put a thumb sized dent in my front quater, and then returned to its normal shapeGuts wrote:dansedgli, you hit any bar write on the outer corner like that and its going to bend. It is the weakest spot.

Wrote off the other car tho




Can't beat a proper bullbar imo
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
we run a FAT bar on the GQ , you can remove the winch without pulling the bar off which is very important at a comp ,it has been great , with no dramas , priced well and stu gear is TOP SHELF . do yourself a favor and get one !
thanks to~ ON & OFFROAD MECHANICAL , F.A.T BARS , ARB COOPERS PLAINS , WM MOTORSPORT , 2DEXTREME , DIRECT CLUTCHES & FOURBY`S
i should add i did heaps of reseach before i got the FAT bar , the feedback on the strenght was very very good . i will also add i run the FAT bar because we think it is the best and we want too , and would again . we also payed for the bar {$$$$$$} and are not sponsored by FAT ......
thanks to~ ON & OFFROAD MECHANICAL , F.A.T BARS , ARB COOPERS PLAINS , WM MOTORSPORT , 2DEXTREME , DIRECT CLUTCHES & FOURBY`S
dansedgli wrote:In my experience cheezy bars arent that strong anyway.icrawl wrote:they dont look as strong as cheezy bar
I hit a tree at maybe 10km/hr or less on a slippery clay uphill run. The wing bent in and the middle of the bar twisted stopping the winch from working. The left side of my GQ got smashed up.
The grill, headlight, indicator, guard needed replacing and I need to send the car to a panel beater to align the drivers side panels again. Now when I fit a guard the drivers door wont open. As a temporary fix I have cut the back of a guard to give the door room.
The bar in this picture hit a tree at about 40, also on the drivers side, and while it bent a little bit, no panels were touched.
If you want strength then maybe a comp bar isnt the best idea. They look the goods though.
Thats quite interesting to see because i ran into an embankment at around 15-20km/h and no damage done other than moveing the bar on the mounts slightly arround 1mm on one side and busted a tire off both beeds.


1989 Nissan Patrol GQ, 4.2 Turbo Diesel, 4'' Spring Lift, 2'' Body Lift
[url]http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2869&im=1[/url]
[url]http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/shed/index.php?id=2869&im=1[/url]
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