It's time to cut the rust from the 4by and I want to to it right. When I weld in the new metal should I leave a small gap and butt weld (Trying not to blow through ) or put a step around the edge of the patch panel and recess this behind the original metal?
Your advice - I want to put metal back in.
M+S
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Advice wanted from panel work gurus
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Advice wanted from panel work gurus
HIS: '90 FJ73 Awaiting funds for mods
OURS: '00 HZ105 Cruiser - HIDs, GPS, UHF, LF240s, BFG MTs, BB, Steps, Outback Drawers . . . .
OURS: '00 HZ105 Cruiser - HIDs, GPS, UHF, LF240s, BFG MTs, BB, Steps, Outback Drawers . . . .
No overlap. That's what usualy causes rust in the first place. Just butt weld with 1mm or less gap. Weld in stitches slowly to minimize heat buildup. Don't make the replacement sections square, give them very round edges, or start at a square cut or the end of a join. Heat travels there first and can cause holes for the inexperienced. Do it slowly. Suface grind both sides and treat them appropriately to stop rust starting again.
[quote="bazooked"]can i use a mate to position while i screw? :twisted:[/quote]
God of Magnificant Ideas!
If you over lap it by 1 or 2mm there shouldnt be an issue as most of the overlap will be burnt off in the welding process anyway.
Any larger then a 5mm overlap WILL produce a rustable area...... but ....
this can be 'fixed' using a paintable wax compound ( available from most panel shop suppliers).......
Heat the wax up to get a runny consistancy and spray it on with a kero gun..... the wax will dry to a semi firm layer with a consistancy of set candle wax.
This will seal out 99% of potential future rusting issues.
In the past ( and as I will continue to do so in the future) I spray the wax compound onto any internal panel area I can get the nozzle near, even areas such as the centre of a door panel even get a coat when I've been in there !!
WARNING:
Heat the wax SLOWLY and DONT OVER COOK IT......
( if you cant put a finger into the warm wax its TOO HOT ! )
( pre warm the gun with hot tap water BEFORE adding the wax )
( run 4 or 5 metres of your air line through a bucket of hot water to 'warm up' the compressed air slightly )
TIPS:
A kero gun works well....... I've also used it through a spraygun and the guns used for applying stoneguard too.
Best applied on a hot day
Allow an overnight drying time
Allow 7 days cure time before adding Fisholene or similar anti rusting preventives, and only add the Fisholene on a cool day.
Kingy
Any larger then a 5mm overlap WILL produce a rustable area...... but ....
this can be 'fixed' using a paintable wax compound ( available from most panel shop suppliers).......
Heat the wax up to get a runny consistancy and spray it on with a kero gun..... the wax will dry to a semi firm layer with a consistancy of set candle wax.
This will seal out 99% of potential future rusting issues.
In the past ( and as I will continue to do so in the future) I spray the wax compound onto any internal panel area I can get the nozzle near, even areas such as the centre of a door panel even get a coat when I've been in there !!
WARNING:
Heat the wax SLOWLY and DONT OVER COOK IT......
( if you cant put a finger into the warm wax its TOO HOT ! )
( pre warm the gun with hot tap water BEFORE adding the wax )
( run 4 or 5 metres of your air line through a bucket of hot water to 'warm up' the compressed air slightly )
TIPS:
A kero gun works well....... I've also used it through a spraygun and the guns used for applying stoneguard too.
Best applied on a hot day
Allow an overnight drying time
Allow 7 days cure time before adding Fisholene or similar anti rusting preventives, and only add the Fisholene on a cool day.
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
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