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308 into a 1980 rangie. good or bad?
Moderator: Micka
308 into a 1980 rangie. good or bad?
hi im thinking of an engine transplant into my range rover and wondering if many have done this conversion and peoples ideas on it? Im thinking of putting a 308 into it but not sure what problems im going to get if any?
HSV Rangie the story:
Part 1 repower.
Car: 1986 Highline RR Caspian blue.
3.5 lt Rover V8 EFI.
LT77 5 speed.
LT230 t/case 1.192-1 high range.
3.32-1 low range.
3.54 Diffs.
Range Rover alloys 7x16 fitted with 205 Michelins.
Purchase condition: clean tidy with around 150K on the clock.
Had LPG duel fuel conversion fitted (what a PIA that was) very unreliable.
Fitted a set of peco star (real ones) white spoke wheels (100mm back space) with 31*10R15 mud terrains, these required the guards to be trimmed so I fitted a set of Rangie spares flare kit, at the same time fitting a set of 220x17 lb springs to the rear and swapping the rear springs into the front this gave a 50mm lift. Removed bouge unit.
In this guise it performed its duties well enough, all its problems can be attributed to the gas conversion (crap never again).
Playing on a track near the slate mine up the Howqua track near Jamieson.
On road absolutely brilliant to drive just gutless.
Off road it performs very well on all trips easily surpasses toys nissans ect in its ability and comfort.
But its limits were soon found.
Speedo now reads 250K after a few years.
The time to improve this RR has arrived.
Why modify this one and not purchase new:
1: New RR at that time 130K.
2: New Toy L/c 50-70K.
3: New Nissan Patrol 40-60K.
4: I own it.
The above options while sound were expensive and they still would not achieve what I wanted, all would need at least 10-15K spent on them after purchase.
So I decided that spending 10-20K on it would give the car I want and be many $ in front of a new purchase.
What mods should be entailed.
1: Performance severely lacking, gutless on road, hates towing, need a week and many Ks of clear road to overtake a car also the legendary RR fuel economy.
Engine replace or rebuild:
The options:
Petrol:
Rebuild RR engine.
Upgrade to 3.9, 4.2, 4.6, 5.0 and all the way to 5.2 lts.
4.6 drive in drive out $11-13K.
5Lt 250KW ,mmmmmmmmm 12 K for engine.
5.2 lt almost 300 KW $20K for engine. This I wanted just expensive.
Holden engines 5Lt torque to far up rev range for what I wanted.
Chev 350 almost made it torque perfect about $5.5K new engine.
LT1 Gen 3 $6.5K but from the info I could find torque was to far up rev range and no conversion kit available bell housing bolt pattern is different.
Then noticed an add for a HSV 215 (stroked 308) 355 CI.
Research determined that the specs were:
215 KW @ 4800.
475 NM @ 3600 with 400NM available @ 1200rpm. (Now I’m smiling at this)
Diesels well I just couldn’t. (ones I thought about, 6.5 chev, LR tdi, 4lt BMW 6 cyl)
The 215 was on sale for $6.5K new crate motor comes with comp, clutch, exhausts and starter.
The 215 Holden I ordered.
Let the works begin:
Other items needed to make engine run.
Wiring loom: (new Holden VT engine loom).
Ignition module:
O2 sensors x2:
W/pump pulley:
Crank pullies:
Hi volume high pressure fuel pump (HSV std Item)
The above items including engine purchased from Bay City Holden Frankston. (very very Helpful with all info required)
Power steering pump: S/Hand from VS V8.
Alternator 120 amp: new from Enhanced Auto electrics Dandenong also all wiring.
Speed sensor and speedo correction, Howard Instruments Geelong.
The conversion:
Conversion kit Marks 4x4 adaptors: (hmmmmmmmmmmmmm)
Adaptor kit from marks 4x4:
Fitted perfect, but small print in instructions say temporally fit engine, note where distributor hits fire wall, remove engine and panel beat fire wall to fit. NO, Remove engine and move gearbox forward 25mm solved all clearance problems, at the same time gave it a 50mm body lift. And not one sender/sensor adaptor they provided was of any use.
ECU fitted up under dash shouldn’t get wet up here.
ECU problems:
After fitting engine and ecu Marks tell me I will need a body control module and speed sensor. BCM $750.00 not amused, off to HSV dealer talk to him and technician Yep need BCM but Tech says he can reprogram chip says will just delete the requirement for BCM and anything else not required. $150.00 Done. Should have had him raise KW to 250 (soon).
Engine fits in perfect now:
Manifolds Exhaust: Had std HSV VT manifolds left side fit perfect, right side straight through chasy. Find another manifold to suit now all is well. HPC coated should hell keep under body temp down.
Exhaust is 75mm mandrel bent, with full flow 75mm cat fitted.
Supplied and fitted by Johnny mac exhausts.
Radiator:
New aluminium radiator from Race Radiators Dandenong.
This radiator lasted 12 months not happy here, used the corrosion inhibitor recommended by race rads and Holden, leaks around both the inlet and outlet looks like cracked welds or epoxy to me, Just down $800.00 and no one admits fault.
Would not recommend an aluminium rad now.
Currently have stock rover rad back in car with temporary pipes made up, will fit rad from Aussie desert coolers ASAP. $450.00.
Cooling taken care of by Ford EL electric fans. To date there have been no cooling issues, these fans are brilliant. Highly recommend.
Hoses: Bottom VT V8 perfect, Top: Vt V8 perfect.
Sump:
Required a rear drop pan, purchased s/hand H/Q sump removed windage tray from original sump fitted to H/Q but not happy with oil retention on inclines. Speak to High Energy Oil Pans Dandenong, Get a Pro Eliminator Sump made up full windage tray, baffles and trap door. (Overkill but I have no oil starvation issues)
Power steering:
Std holden pump and mount from VS engine.
Had to raise mount and move back aprox 25mm now uses middle pulley on crank.
Fitted to Std location with only these mods to bracket.
Alternator.
From Holden had to fab new mounts as the std mounts used front pulley on crank and would not allow access to A/C drive. So moved Alt to use rear crank pulley.
A/C: Fab mount in conjunction with Alt bracket. Now drives off front of crank.
AC plumbing and regas by Advanced auto elec Dandy.
Fuel Pump:
Kept R/R intank pump as it is similar to Holden unit. HSV run 2 pumps with this engine so fitted HSV pump at right rear wheel made cover to protect from mud etc Run new heavy wire to front connecting to both pumps.
Engine mounts:
Supplied Marks 4x4. Uses R/R engine mounts, but should fit V12 jag ones.
Air cleaner:
Modified RR unit to increase air flow not happy with it. (looks terrible) Will fab S/S unit to take Std holden V8 air cleaner element. Also building 2 snorkels to supply air. (Still not done).
Finally all is fitted and the time comes to start engine.
Engine is turned over for 5 mins until oil is seen in Rockers.
Coil is hooked up.
Turn key and it launches into life smiles all around. Damn it sounds good.
We let it run and watch temps climb then the elec fans cut in things looking good.
Put it into gear no crunches all works smoothly slowly release clutch and we have movement smiles again, backwards forwards in the shed.
First drive!!!!!!
Out the doors, turn left down Hammond Rd, plant the foot and my god!! the power this thing has is unbelievable, performance all through the rev range pulls away from 30ks in O/D just accelerates niceeeeeee. Far better than I ever thought.
Problems:
Gear box is noisy wont last long. hopefully 6-12 months. NOPE 3.
Decide to fit R380 none available at the time next option is a ZF 4 speed auto duly purchased and fitted so smooth to drive.
Trip to Shepparton average about 25 mpg at 110-120. Excellent.
Never let anyone convince that rovers have adequate power THEY DON’T.
Power, performance and economy solved.
Now
2: Suspension mods in progress details soon.
3: Drive line mods in progress details soon.
As it now stands:
Repowered.
Now an auto ZF.
4.3 diffs.
Transfer now 1.1-1.
Tyres Silverstone MT117 35 inch or BFG 265/75/16 at.
Part 1 repower.
Car: 1986 Highline RR Caspian blue.
3.5 lt Rover V8 EFI.
LT77 5 speed.
LT230 t/case 1.192-1 high range.
3.32-1 low range.
3.54 Diffs.
Range Rover alloys 7x16 fitted with 205 Michelins.
Purchase condition: clean tidy with around 150K on the clock.
Had LPG duel fuel conversion fitted (what a PIA that was) very unreliable.
Fitted a set of peco star (real ones) white spoke wheels (100mm back space) with 31*10R15 mud terrains, these required the guards to be trimmed so I fitted a set of Rangie spares flare kit, at the same time fitting a set of 220x17 lb springs to the rear and swapping the rear springs into the front this gave a 50mm lift. Removed bouge unit.
In this guise it performed its duties well enough, all its problems can be attributed to the gas conversion (crap never again).
Playing on a track near the slate mine up the Howqua track near Jamieson.
On road absolutely brilliant to drive just gutless.
Off road it performs very well on all trips easily surpasses toys nissans ect in its ability and comfort.
But its limits were soon found.
Speedo now reads 250K after a few years.
The time to improve this RR has arrived.
Why modify this one and not purchase new:
1: New RR at that time 130K.
2: New Toy L/c 50-70K.
3: New Nissan Patrol 40-60K.
4: I own it.
The above options while sound were expensive and they still would not achieve what I wanted, all would need at least 10-15K spent on them after purchase.
So I decided that spending 10-20K on it would give the car I want and be many $ in front of a new purchase.
What mods should be entailed.
1: Performance severely lacking, gutless on road, hates towing, need a week and many Ks of clear road to overtake a car also the legendary RR fuel economy.
Engine replace or rebuild:
The options:
Petrol:
Rebuild RR engine.
Upgrade to 3.9, 4.2, 4.6, 5.0 and all the way to 5.2 lts.
4.6 drive in drive out $11-13K.
5Lt 250KW ,mmmmmmmmm 12 K for engine.
5.2 lt almost 300 KW $20K for engine. This I wanted just expensive.
Holden engines 5Lt torque to far up rev range for what I wanted.
Chev 350 almost made it torque perfect about $5.5K new engine.
LT1 Gen 3 $6.5K but from the info I could find torque was to far up rev range and no conversion kit available bell housing bolt pattern is different.
Then noticed an add for a HSV 215 (stroked 308) 355 CI.
Research determined that the specs were:
215 KW @ 4800.
475 NM @ 3600 with 400NM available @ 1200rpm. (Now I’m smiling at this)
Diesels well I just couldn’t. (ones I thought about, 6.5 chev, LR tdi, 4lt BMW 6 cyl)
The 215 was on sale for $6.5K new crate motor comes with comp, clutch, exhausts and starter.
The 215 Holden I ordered.
Let the works begin:
Other items needed to make engine run.
Wiring loom: (new Holden VT engine loom).
Ignition module:
O2 sensors x2:
W/pump pulley:
Crank pullies:
Hi volume high pressure fuel pump (HSV std Item)
The above items including engine purchased from Bay City Holden Frankston. (very very Helpful with all info required)
Power steering pump: S/Hand from VS V8.
Alternator 120 amp: new from Enhanced Auto electrics Dandenong also all wiring.
Speed sensor and speedo correction, Howard Instruments Geelong.
The conversion:
Conversion kit Marks 4x4 adaptors: (hmmmmmmmmmmmmm)
Adaptor kit from marks 4x4:
Fitted perfect, but small print in instructions say temporally fit engine, note where distributor hits fire wall, remove engine and panel beat fire wall to fit. NO, Remove engine and move gearbox forward 25mm solved all clearance problems, at the same time gave it a 50mm body lift. And not one sender/sensor adaptor they provided was of any use.
ECU fitted up under dash shouldn’t get wet up here.
ECU problems:
After fitting engine and ecu Marks tell me I will need a body control module and speed sensor. BCM $750.00 not amused, off to HSV dealer talk to him and technician Yep need BCM but Tech says he can reprogram chip says will just delete the requirement for BCM and anything else not required. $150.00 Done. Should have had him raise KW to 250 (soon).
Engine fits in perfect now:
Manifolds Exhaust: Had std HSV VT manifolds left side fit perfect, right side straight through chasy. Find another manifold to suit now all is well. HPC coated should hell keep under body temp down.
Exhaust is 75mm mandrel bent, with full flow 75mm cat fitted.
Supplied and fitted by Johnny mac exhausts.
Radiator:
New aluminium radiator from Race Radiators Dandenong.
This radiator lasted 12 months not happy here, used the corrosion inhibitor recommended by race rads and Holden, leaks around both the inlet and outlet looks like cracked welds or epoxy to me, Just down $800.00 and no one admits fault.
Would not recommend an aluminium rad now.
Currently have stock rover rad back in car with temporary pipes made up, will fit rad from Aussie desert coolers ASAP. $450.00.
Cooling taken care of by Ford EL electric fans. To date there have been no cooling issues, these fans are brilliant. Highly recommend.
Hoses: Bottom VT V8 perfect, Top: Vt V8 perfect.
Sump:
Required a rear drop pan, purchased s/hand H/Q sump removed windage tray from original sump fitted to H/Q but not happy with oil retention on inclines. Speak to High Energy Oil Pans Dandenong, Get a Pro Eliminator Sump made up full windage tray, baffles and trap door. (Overkill but I have no oil starvation issues)
Power steering:
Std holden pump and mount from VS engine.
Had to raise mount and move back aprox 25mm now uses middle pulley on crank.
Fitted to Std location with only these mods to bracket.
Alternator.
From Holden had to fab new mounts as the std mounts used front pulley on crank and would not allow access to A/C drive. So moved Alt to use rear crank pulley.
A/C: Fab mount in conjunction with Alt bracket. Now drives off front of crank.
AC plumbing and regas by Advanced auto elec Dandy.
Fuel Pump:
Kept R/R intank pump as it is similar to Holden unit. HSV run 2 pumps with this engine so fitted HSV pump at right rear wheel made cover to protect from mud etc Run new heavy wire to front connecting to both pumps.
Engine mounts:
Supplied Marks 4x4. Uses R/R engine mounts, but should fit V12 jag ones.
Air cleaner:
Modified RR unit to increase air flow not happy with it. (looks terrible) Will fab S/S unit to take Std holden V8 air cleaner element. Also building 2 snorkels to supply air. (Still not done).
Finally all is fitted and the time comes to start engine.
Engine is turned over for 5 mins until oil is seen in Rockers.
Coil is hooked up.
Turn key and it launches into life smiles all around. Damn it sounds good.
We let it run and watch temps climb then the elec fans cut in things looking good.
Put it into gear no crunches all works smoothly slowly release clutch and we have movement smiles again, backwards forwards in the shed.
First drive!!!!!!
Out the doors, turn left down Hammond Rd, plant the foot and my god!! the power this thing has is unbelievable, performance all through the rev range pulls away from 30ks in O/D just accelerates niceeeeeee. Far better than I ever thought.
Problems:
Gear box is noisy wont last long. hopefully 6-12 months. NOPE 3.
Decide to fit R380 none available at the time next option is a ZF 4 speed auto duly purchased and fitted so smooth to drive.
Trip to Shepparton average about 25 mpg at 110-120. Excellent.
Never let anyone convince that rovers have adequate power THEY DON’T.
Power, performance and economy solved.
Now
2: Suspension mods in progress details soon.
3: Drive line mods in progress details soon.
As it now stands:
Repowered.
Now an auto ZF.
4.3 diffs.
Transfer now 1.1-1.
Tyres Silverstone MT117 35 inch or BFG 265/75/16 at.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
HSV this all sounds well and good but bloody expensive like all i want big power,torque and want it really cheap. It has a p76 engine in it and it goes well but the fuel gauge moves quicker than the tacho hence i need something different, reliable and easy on my wallet, honestly im not too sure what to go for?
Ye Old Rangie,
If you are interested in doing a 308, i am sort of wrecking a Schuler which had RED 308 fitted, very good conversions.
I drove it into a bog hole at excessive speed and drowned it. Towed it home dried it out and up she started, about a week later driving along after pressure washing her, she started belching huge amounts of white smoke.
I tried to sort it out couldn't, so i gave up.
PM me if you are interested in talking to me. The Rangie is in the Dandenong Ranges.
Steve
If you are interested in doing a 308, i am sort of wrecking a Schuler which had RED 308 fitted, very good conversions.
I drove it into a bog hole at excessive speed and drowned it. Towed it home dried it out and up she started, about a week later driving along after pressure washing her, she started belching huge amounts of white smoke.
I tried to sort it out couldn't, so i gave up.
PM me if you are interested in talking to me. The Rangie is in the Dandenong Ranges.
Steve
86 Rangie, F+R 4:11 Maxi, 35 Pedes, 6 point cage, Comp High Mount
Hi,
LT 95 will last behind anything. That's what was in mine when I bought it. Now has a 1981 Ritter C9 conversion that uses the TC from an LT 95. Accelerates harder than the manual due to the multiplier effect of the torque convertor. Great to drive on or off road.
Cloughy had a used Chev for about $1200 (???) that's been sold, and the Ritter conversions go for about $500 ish. Finding a wreck with what you want is the cheapest way forward.
LT 95 will last behind anything. That's what was in mine when I bought it. Now has a 1981 Ritter C9 conversion that uses the TC from an LT 95. Accelerates harder than the manual due to the multiplier effect of the torque convertor. Great to drive on or off road.
Cloughy had a used Chev for about $1200 (???) that's been sold, and the Ritter conversions go for about $500 ish. Finding a wreck with what you want is the cheapest way forward.
I ain't got diddly at the momentDL wrote:Hi,
LT 95 will last behind anything. That's what was in mine when I bought it. Now has a 1981 Ritter C9 conversion that uses the TC from an LT 95. Accelerates harder than the manual due to the multiplier effect of the torque convertor. Great to drive on or off road.
Cloughy had a used Chev for about $1200 (???) that's been sold, and the Ritter conversions go for about $500 ish. Finding a wreck with what you want is the cheapest way forward.
Last one went in this
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tuto ... disco.html
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
I can get hold of a wrecked rangie with a 308 black motor fitted to an auto.(3 speed I think). has everthing needed, quady, electronic iginition, headers, power steer pump, engine mounts etc. might be able to get an alum radiator to suit also from this same conversion). Engine has big $$$ spent on it but has not been run for a fair while now. It came off the road because the transfer case (it was an unusual one - not sure what it was - maybe a Schuler) couldnt handle the power - stripped splines and the owner walked away from it.
I could put it all on a pallet if you arranged freight. $1500 for the engine with all accessories, autobox and transfer.
I could put it all on a pallet if you arranged freight. $1500 for the engine with all accessories, autobox and transfer.
what about a soarer engine, light, most of the engines have low ks, about the same size and can be found pretty cheap and can make some good power if you run psi in them.
there was a import guy on ebay selling engines, auto box,computer, loom, alt for $1250 buy now price
its the engine i'll put in mine if it ever dies
there was a import guy on ebay selling engines, auto box,computer, loom, alt for $1250 buy now price
its the engine i'll put in mine if it ever dies
cheer up emo kid
Ever looked at one?I've had the Lexus/Soarer engine in my Rangie for around 3 years.
Plenty of grunt, pulls better down low than the old 4.6 Rangie and returns around 18mpg on the freeway.
Tight fit but I think but certainly worth it.
That said I'm now re-powering with a supercharged Lexus that should see around 600+HP and piss poor fuel economy!
Plenty of grunt, pulls better down low than the old 4.6 Rangie and returns around 18mpg on the freeway.
Tight fit but I think but certainly worth it.
That said I'm now re-powering with a supercharged Lexus that should see around 600+HP and piss poor fuel economy!
Cheers,
Zuffen
There's no such a thing as too much horsepower
Zuffen
There's no such a thing as too much horsepower
That's cause 4.6's suck for Hp along with all Rover motorszuffen wrote:I've had the Lexus/Soarer engine in my Rangie for around 3 years.
Plenty of grunt, pulls better down low than the old 4.6 Rangie and returns around 18mpg on the freeway.
Tight fit but I think but certainly worth it.
That said I'm now re-powering with a supercharged Lexus that should see around 600+HP and piss poor fuel economy!
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
Wouldn't buy a marks kit new, just buy a rangie with a chev in it, much cheaperYe Olde Rangie wrote:yeah gen 3 would be nice but no one does an adaptor plate to suit do they? Im just gonna try and pick a good 308 up i think and buy a kit from marks 4wd, im just gonna stick with carby too i think injection is a little too much f@#king around.
Gen 3 is chev/turbo block pattern and engine mounts are easy made
EFI gives a FAR bettr end result if starting from scratch
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
Easiest way is to buy a turbo 700/ LT 95 conversion, bolt that in and your chev/holden/gen3 will bolt straight to it. Just happens that i have one in my shed that is up for grabs if you interested, just needs a converter. $1.5kYe Olde Rangie wrote:yeah gen 3 would be nice but no one does an adaptor plate to suit do they? Im just gonna try and pick a good 308 up i think and buy a kit from marks 4wd, im just gonna stick with carby too i think injection is a little too much f@#king around.
Auto and transfer was recoed 5000k ago. 
Damien
--------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------
$4000 6.0 270kw crate motor
http://www.letsgocruisin.com.au/special-offer01.html
1UZ lexus v8 ebay $650+
Another lexus v8 $500
5 litre holden $650
403 chev + turbo 400 $35+
Nissan VH45 $2k in front cut
Rebuilt 454 chev $2500
Gen III LS1 $2750, seen cheaper...
Gen 3 Senator $1500, manifold elsewhere for $200
And the ecu for the 300kw tune $100+
http://www.letsgocruisin.com.au/special-offer01.html
1UZ lexus v8 ebay $650+
Another lexus v8 $500
5 litre holden $650
403 chev + turbo 400 $35+
Nissan VH45 $2k in front cut
Rebuilt 454 chev $2500
Gen III LS1 $2750, seen cheaper...
Gen 3 Senator $1500, manifold elsewhere for $200
And the ecu for the 300kw tune $100+
no mods .def90 wrote:HSV rangie, have you done any mods to the ZF?
how long has it been in and how is it holding up?
when it dies it will get the treatmnent.
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Aww yeah
Thinking of putting the 5.7 out of my VYSS in my Rangie.. then get a crate 6.0 300kw and throw in SS :-)
Only things to change on the 5.7 would be the sump and exhaust manifolds yeah? guessing the 5.7 would be too much for the ZF.. thinking just a T400 or 700
Camo
Thinking of putting the 5.7 out of my VYSS in my Rangie.. then get a crate 6.0 300kw and throw in SS :-)
Only things to change on the 5.7 would be the sump and exhaust manifolds yeah? guessing the 5.7 would be too much for the ZF.. thinking just a T400 or 700
Camo
1994 Range Rover Soft Dash, Rear ARB Locker, 33's, 2" body & Spring, custom bits
2004 Range Rover Diesel 20" wheels. My Black Beauty:-)
2004 Range Rover Diesel 20" wheels. My Black Beauty:-)
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