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Horn Fuse

Tech Talk for Ford, Mazda, Daihatsu & Makes that currently dont have a home.

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Horn Fuse

Post by Newtothefourbeworld »

Gday guys i could use a hand.

Noticed that my drivers side rear indicator wasnt working so i went on a fuse hunt and found the horn fuse blown. I went to put a new one in and it sparked and blew straight up (the car was off too). with a multimeter attatched i went in search of the probelm but came up with nothing. I disconected the horn button, and then the horns but no change. Anyone know what else is o that circuit that i can check? thanks
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Post by Newtothefourbeworld »

sooooooooooooo, no ideas then hey
?
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Post by MightyMouse »

And the model is...... ?
( usual disclaimers )

It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
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Post by Newtothefourbeworld »

ah didnt think it would really matter but its a 94 F310. Just not sure what to check or what could be causing the problem. It needs to be a short on constant power as the multi meter should 12.8V going across the fuse all the time but im not sure what on that circuit would have constant power.
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Post by Gwagensteve »

The Horn is constantly powered in most cars.

Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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Post by MightyMouse »

Powered from battery via main fuse, Horn Hazard Fuse.

Permanently "hot", earthed to ground through horn button on steering column.

My bet - short to ground in one of the horns.

Pull the + wires off the horns - no fault then replace one at a time...

Of course could be a wiring issue..... F300 Manual BE page 33

You have downloaded the manual from www.warfs.org haven't you ?
( usual disclaimers )

It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
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Post by Newtothefourbeworld »

ok so you bet MM is to pull the -ve of each of the horns in the front bumper, replace the fuse and if it doesnt blow replace each at a time and see which one blows it?

yeh i have the manual but couldnt find a wiring diagram but i will check out those pages! thanks
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Post by MightyMouse »

Yep - at least that will indicate if its a failed horn ( there's two ) or wiring from the battery.

If it was wiring FROM the horns then they would be on all the time and you would notice it :D
( usual disclaimers )

It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Posts: 205
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Post by Newtothefourbeworld »

well i dunno as i cant get a fuse to survive long enough to complete the circuit.

Another weird thing i figured out today was that hazards work when high beam are on..................
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Post by murcod »

Possibly your hazards are shorted to the high beam circuit? :? High beam would draw enough current to blow the fuse I'd imagine?

Try unplugging the headlight bulbs on each side and see if the fuse still blows? Strange but it's worth a try!
David
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Post by Newtothefourbeworld »

ok this is driving me insane!!!!!!!

Here is a small list of facts and bear in mind the horn/hazzard fuse is not in place while any of these tests were done:

- Constant 12V power across fuse blowing it instantaneously
- Turn car on and it jumps to 14.3V
- Turn High Beams on and drops to 0.5V, hazards work, and wehn i turn the spotties on (whihc are wired throuhg highbeam) and then off again they cause a spike in volts. Also while the hazards are on the drivers side rear indicator + all the passanger side works but not the front/side indicator whihc is the opposite to when i use the right indicator on its own (ie not throuhg the hazards)
- Diconnecting the horns did nothing
- Disconnecting the headlights did nothing

Im going insane trying to figure this out and i know i will get booked eventually for my indicator not working and also know that the horn doesnt work i always need to use it for stupid people on the roads.......evil murphy!
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Post by murcod »

Check all your wiring looms for wear (something might have worn through the insulation and be shorting to the chassis.) Look in the engine bay and under your dash.

Check all additional wiring that has been added- usually it's the add on bits done DIY that cause failures.
David
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