Righto.
I want to either.
fit a long range tank.
or
fit a second tank
if i fit a second tank how do you set it up?
I had thought that I could set them up that they auto level, so you drain both at once.
or if i kept them independent and switchable between them, then i could run one on pure diesel and one on pure vege oil for once the engine up to temp.
if they were independent and switchable how do you make it selectable to choose between them?
I know on Landcruisers with 2 tanks each tank has its own fuel pump and the electrical switch simply changes which pump is supplying the fuel.
Can you make your own tank out of stainless? (not alloy as i dont have a tig) or not worth the effort?
oh and im a tight arse so going to arb for a $1000 tank is not the plan.
do any 4wd use plastic tanks? just wondering cause motorbikes do and they are very tuff.
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Fuel tanks - bigger and better for an ln106
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Fuel tanks - bigger and better for an ln106
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Goto *
Goto *
Assuming you have the rotary IP, you can not have it switchable in the same fashion as diesel or petrol EFI cars with common rail injection without having two lift pumps (petrol V6 Hilux has a lift pump in-tank).
It would have to be different with low pressure solenoid valves off each tank (see last note).
Your probably better off having a gravity feed from one tank to another, but in the case of two tanks at the same level with the rotary IP pump, an equalisation tube between the two tanks is the best option. That way you gauge will show true remaining fuel.
A 1995 Feroza tank will go well where your spare wheel sits, or modify your exhaust and rear shocks (inverted) to accommodate a second tank on the other side of the current one.
Another option is to have a second tank with in-tank pump to transfer to original tank.
Every time you run out of fuel, you will need to go through the priming process if you do the separate tank thing.
It would have to be different with low pressure solenoid valves off each tank (see last note).
Your probably better off having a gravity feed from one tank to another, but in the case of two tanks at the same level with the rotary IP pump, an equalisation tube between the two tanks is the best option. That way you gauge will show true remaining fuel.
A 1995 Feroza tank will go well where your spare wheel sits, or modify your exhaust and rear shocks (inverted) to accommodate a second tank on the other side of the current one.
Another option is to have a second tank with in-tank pump to transfer to original tank.
Every time you run out of fuel, you will need to go through the priming process if you do the separate tank thing.
I'm the sharpest tool in the shed!
I was thinking the option for equilisation tube would be the way to go. saves second fuel guage etc. but just means i cant run a veg oil tank separate - but this is not the end of the world.v6hilux wrote: Your probably better off having a gravity feed from one tank to another, but in the case of two tanks at the same level with the rotary IP pump, an equalisation tube between the two tanks is the best option. That way you gauge will show true remaining fuel.
A 1995 Feroza tank will go well where your spare wheel sits, or modify your exhaust and rear shocks (inverted) to accommodate a second tank on the other side of the current one.
when you say a second tank beside the normal one - would it be another hilux tank? or are their certain others that also fit?
I would like to leave the spare where it is so i dont have to give up space in the tray as its also a work ute.
do you know how many liters long range tanks are to suit these? might just be an easier option as they seem to be available 2nd hand fairly often. or does this put too much weight on the drivers side.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
My answer is the cheapest option, since I can do all the stuff myself.thehanko wrote:when you say a second tank beside the normal one - would it be another hilux tank? or are their certain others that also fit?
do you know how many liters long range tanks are to suit these? might just be an easier option as they seem to be available 2nd hand fairly often. or does this put too much weight on the drivers side.
Another Hilux tank could go on the other side, but DIY with mods described.
As for after-market tank capacity, I'm not working for ARB and yes, it's a case by case thing, with every tank being different. Too much weight? I weigh 100Kg plus. An extra 50L may weigh 48Kg plus extra steel in tank. Not that much when you consider the payload is 750Kg or more.
I'm the sharpest tool in the shed!
Yeah sweet,
I think Ill measure up the space on the passenger side and look at fitting a second tank up with a gravity feed to the other side.
Would you just brase or can you weld a hose to the tank to make the bridging hose?
Would it equalised between tanks fast enough to allow easy filling up? or would you run a second fuel cap for the second tank?
I think Ill measure up the space on the passenger side and look at fitting a second tank up with a gravity feed to the other side.
Would you just brase or can you weld a hose to the tank to make the bridging hose?
Would it equalised between tanks fast enough to allow easy filling up? or would you run a second fuel cap for the second tank?
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
Err- Prado's are rotary pumps- with the 1KZ-TE Turbo dieselv6hilux wrote:Assuming you have the rotary IP, you can not have it switchable in the same fashion as diesel or petrol EFI cars with common rail injection without having two lift pumps (petrol V6 Hilux has a lift pump in-tank).
It would have to be different with low pressure solenoid valves off each tank (see last note).
Your probably better off having a gravity feed from one tank to another, but in the case of two tanks at the same level with the rotary IP pump, an equalisation tube between the two tanks is the best option. That way you gauge will show true remaining fuel.
A 1995 Feroza tank will go well where your spare wheel sits, or modify your exhaust and rear shocks (inverted) to accommodate a second tank on the other side of the current one.
Another option is to have a second tank with in-tank pump to transfer to original tank.
Every time you run out of fuel, you will need to go through the priming process if you do the separate tank thing.
LC78/9's with the 1HD-FTE turbo and 1HZ NA diesel are rotary
LC100 and LC105's with the 1HD-FTE and 1HZ are rotary
All of them have Dual tanks, none of them have lift pumps, all of them manually switched via a pair of solenoids underneath the passengers seat.
You can fit a prado sub tank where the spare sits in a lux- gives you 69 litres, and use the prado plumbing. Ive seen it done on here, but cant remember who the hell had it, and it uses the prado filler neck (which has sub and main fill holes) and then you can work out somewhere to put a 2nd fuel gauge (either LC style- 2nd one in the dashboard above your existing or maybe replace your clock with one from a prado- they might be the same size?)
Or you can fit a Long Range tank- ive got 134L of diesel hanging under mine, and the tank only cost $450 from a wreckers- its an Out of Town long Ranger
2005 HDJ100 Manual, ARB bar, XD9000 winch, ARB rooftop tent + awning, Drawers, Engel, 2" OME lift, 285/75R16 KM2's, iCom, HID XGT's.
Thats fine and the info well received, but the Hilux primer pump is mostly a POS. When they run out of fuel with gravity against the fuel flow to the pump, they may never self prime and sometimes the hand primer is faulty and hand priming may never work.ferrit wrote: Err- Prado's are rotary pumps- with the 1KZ-TE Turbo diesel
LC78/9's with the 1HD-FTE turbo and 1HZ NA diesel are rotary
LC100 and LC105's with the 1HD-FTE and 1HZ are rotary
All of them have Dual tanks, none of them have lift pumps, all of them manually switched via a pair of solenoids underneath the passengers seat.
I'm the sharpest tool in the shed!
Ive seen several types of long range tanks in lux's.
The one I have is a davies craig 145lt, its great. They also make a smaller one that dosent require a smaller muffler, 120lts ish.
the long ranger is 135?, but dosent go over to the pax side as much.
Mate had 2 standard tanks side by side underneath, and the exhaust run outside the chassis rail, not inside where it usually goes so the tank would not be near it.
Seen another that was 100lts ish, just a square tank that fitted between the wheel tubs flush in the rear tray. Just had a fuel bulb like that from an outboard to transfer fuel into the filler tube where he tapped into the line.
Another one was from a wrecker that fitted where his spare used to go with some 8mm steel brackets.
That was 70ish lts I think.
Not that hard to make up a tank, use 3mm steel. Have used cardboard to make out a template mock up tank, then used that to make up steel sections, then weld it up.
Let us know what you end up doing.
Trains
The one I have is a davies craig 145lt, its great. They also make a smaller one that dosent require a smaller muffler, 120lts ish.
the long ranger is 135?, but dosent go over to the pax side as much.
Mate had 2 standard tanks side by side underneath, and the exhaust run outside the chassis rail, not inside where it usually goes so the tank would not be near it.
Seen another that was 100lts ish, just a square tank that fitted between the wheel tubs flush in the rear tray. Just had a fuel bulb like that from an outboard to transfer fuel into the filler tube where he tapped into the line.
Another one was from a wrecker that fitted where his spare used to go with some 8mm steel brackets.
That was 70ish lts I think.
Not that hard to make up a tank, use 3mm steel. Have used cardboard to make out a template mock up tank, then used that to make up steel sections, then weld it up.
Let us know what you end up doing.
Trains
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I Lost my own thread 
Whats the go with making your own tank trains? Are the adr's which it has to pass etc etc?
I found a dual cab long range tank cheap, but couldnt find any info to confirm it would fit, I got a few different answers about it.
Whats the go with making your own tank trains? Are the adr's which it has to pass etc etc?
I found a dual cab long range tank cheap, but couldnt find any info to confirm it would fit, I got a few different answers about it.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
only approved fuel tanks can be fitted to a vehicle.
a mod plate must be fitted which confirms the welds are certified,that it has been fitted in an adr approved position using suitable mountings and there are no leaks.
if you build your own and something goes wrong,or you are involved in an accident you will find yourself in serious trouble.
approved persons which hold the LM1 code wear this responsibility when they fit aftermarket tanks,eg-arb. and many people who can do a mod plate won't wear the responsability of a home made tank or a non adr approved fitment.
a mod plate must be fitted which confirms the welds are certified,that it has been fitted in an adr approved position using suitable mountings and there are no leaks.
if you build your own and something goes wrong,or you are involved in an accident you will find yourself in serious trouble.
approved persons which hold the LM1 code wear this responsibility when they fit aftermarket tanks,eg-arb. and many people who can do a mod plate won't wear the responsability of a home made tank or a non adr approved fitment.
So does that mean you can fit any tank from another car as it has already passed ADR? or does any modification / swap / addition of fuel tanks require engineering?4x4 guy wrote:only approved fuel tanks can be fitted to a vehicle.
a mod plate must be fitted which confirms the welds are certified,that it has been fitted in an adr approved position using suitable mountings and there are no leaks.
if you build your own and something goes wrong,or you are involved in an accident you will find yourself in serious trouble.
approved persons which hold the LM1 code wear this responsibility when they fit aftermarket tanks,eg-arb. and many people who can do a mod plate won't wear the responsability of a home made tank or a non adr approved fitment.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
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