TD42 OIL FILTERS

[ZAPPA]

Just a note for the diesel guys, have had dramas with the Repco replacement filters. On cold starts the oil light takes a long time to go out. my mates was doin the same. Sometimes as long as 10-15 sec. Change back to the rycos and its all good. Just thought Id let yous know not to buy them. Has anyone else found this?

[bogged]

best ones are Genuine and arent expensive.


another thread here
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic22221.php

[Lewis]

Ive had same issues with genuine filters with the oil light staying on changed to non genuine no problem.

[Mark2]

I had the issue with Purolator (the good ones with silicon drain back seals).
I threw them away and put Fleetguard ones in - still takes longer than I'd like for the oil light to go out. Its worse if its been sitting for a few days.

Theres been a lot of threads on this - I dont think theres any brand of filter everyone can agree on which solves this issue. Its probably more of a design issue - having two big horizontal filters is not a good plan. Would of been much better it they were vertical.

[love ke70]

ive never had an issue with the rycos, only time the light stays on is when ive just changed oil and filters, takes about 10 seconds at most to go off. id say the ones that people are having issues with dont have anti drain back valves or the valves are shit house.


oh and on the design...its fucking stupid, how are you meant to take them off without making a huge arse mess?

[ZAPPA]

Ive never had a problem with the Ryco filters. Valvoline and the repco copys seem to be the worst

[Dak]

I use Fram heavy duty ones and never had a prob, doesn't matter if the truck sits for weeks. Mine has two filters the same, some have two different filters I think, one with a bypass valve built in.

[rogantriton]

im having the same problem with the ryco one on my 2.8 at the moment. oil light stays on for about 5 seconds when cold starting.

[love ke70]

are you using the right grade oils and are you getting full oil pressure?

in a different car when i had a dodgy oil pump (worn out from running shit oil that had turned to sediment from way over due servicing) it used to take 10 or more seconds to make pressure.

new pump, problem solved

[Dick]

I have been looking into this issue for some time now, I have purchased almost every brand i can find, then chopped them up..
The only filter I have found with a decent design in the drain back valve is the Ryco Z503 premium. It has a bead around the edge and seals well on the end housing. (2 to 3 seconds oil light out)
The construction of the filter is also very tough. The end cap is the heaviest by a mile. The filter media is also strong and hard to tear. Many other filters had very weak media which you could tear with hardly any effort. Some filters had manufacturing issues with the centre core and restricted oil flow. Preload on the drain back valve was also an issue in many filters. It ranged from very heavy to very light.
From my personal findings I would only use - Ryco Z503, Donaldson and Fleetgaurd. None of the asian filters were anywhere near these three brands. Some genuine filters work and some dont, this is because of the filter sourcing I believe..

[mkpatrol]

Ive used all differnt types & still have the problem. Ryco's on at the moment & the engine is taking a while to get oil pressure. Mine is due to age I think, just about to do the 400,000k service on it

IMHO its an engine design problem. Nissan engines were like this all through the 70's & 80's with the exception of the RB series of engines. Oil pumps wear & just take a bit longer to prime thats all. Toyotas dont seem to have the problem, Holden reds were terrible for it but the design caused this.

Just dont rev it until it has pressure.

[love ke70]

and ill wager its not making the pressure it should at idle.

[mkpatrol]

and ill wager its not making the pressure it should at idle.

Possibly not but there is no load then, some old red motors used to run a little as 2-3psi at idle, & that was a good one.

[Mark2]

After trying heaps of different filters, I'm at the point now where I dont care. Its not nice seeing the oil light stay on but they all seem to do it and its not as if they dont go the distance anyway.......

[BIGDAVET86]

have been looking into this issue for some time now, I have purchased almost every brand i can find, then chopped them up..
The only filter I have found with a decent design in the drain back valve is the Ryco Z503 premium. It has a bead around the edge and seals well on the end housing. (2 to 3 seconds oil light out)
The construction of the filter is also very tough. The end cap is the heaviest by a mile. The filter media is also strong and hard to tear. Many other filters had very weak media which you could tear with hardly any effort. Some filters had manufacturing issues with the centre core and restricted oil flow. Preload on the drain back valve was also an issue in many filters. It ranged from very heavy to very light.
From my personal findings I would only use - Ryco Z503, Donaldson and Fleetgaurd. None of the asian filters were anywhere near these three brands. Some genuine filters work and some dont, this is because of the filter sourcing I believe..

Is the Z503 interchangeable with the Z115. Might be a stupid questiuon but i only remember buying Z115's for mine.

Cheers
Dave

[mkpatrol]

After trying heaps of different filters, I'm at the point now where I dont care. Its not nice seeing the oil light stay on but they all seem to do it and its not as if they dont go the distance anyway.......

Thats absically my thoughts ont he matter.

Started mine yeasterday, was last driven on Thursday night, oil light went off almost instantaniosly.

As long as its got oil pressure when I pumping it up a big hill fully loaded & dont really care how long the oil light takes to go off on start up (within reason of course).

[Dick]

have been looking into this issue for some time now, I have purchased almost every brand i can find, then chopped them up..
The only filter I have found with a decent design in the drain back valve is the Ryco Z503 premium. It has a bead around the edge and seals well on the end housing. (2 to 3 seconds oil light out)
The construction of the filter is also very tough. The end cap is the heaviest by a mile. The filter media is also strong and hard to tear. Many other filters had very weak media which you could tear with hardly any effort. Some filters had manufacturing issues with the centre core and restricted oil flow. Preload on the drain back valve was also an issue in many filters. It ranged from very heavy to very light.
From my personal findings I would only use - Ryco Z503, Donaldson and Fleetgaurd. None of the asian filters were anywhere near these three brands. Some genuine filters work and some dont, this is because of the filter sourcing I believe..

Is the Z503 interchangeable with the Z115. Might be a stupid questiuon but i only remember buying Z115's for mine.

Cheers
Dave

Not sure Dave, although I have heard the Z503's are high temp and suited to turbo application. I know they are well made from looking at the guts of them. The filter media was high temp grade, thus the difference in price. (18 bucks is a good price)No other filter has performed like the to date. To all those who have genuine ones and the light goes off quick - you are lucky ! Your filters could of come from one of many overseas manufacturers and a batch could well be ok. The difference in construction is hard to believe between brands..