Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Transfercase oil?
Transfercase oil?
Just a quick one, did a search but nothing came up.
I'm about to install my transfer case gears over the weekend, and just need to know what transfercase oil I should use?
Any and all suggestions appreciated.
Cheers
Dan
P.S, the beast is almost alive!
I'm about to install my transfer case gears over the weekend, and just need to know what transfercase oil I should use?
Any and all suggestions appreciated.
Cheers
Dan
P.S, the beast is almost alive!
Team MUSB.
Yeah 80/90W is fine, but I'm running Redline Shockproof heavy in mine and its very good. (it's $140 for 3.8L though )
Steve.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
I have a basically impossible to replace gearbox (660 sierra) that's in reality far too small for what I'm asking it to do - suzuki never put the 660 in a LWB, let alone one with 34's on it and more power.
That box takes more than 1.0l of oil, and as I also have transfer case gears and a lot of money in the front diff, both of which are brand new, I thought it was worth putting the best stuff possible in there.
According to the spiel on it, it flows like 90W but has the impact resistance of 240W. I liked the sound of that, and didn't want to run mineral 140W in a car with very little power.
I had my reasons...
Steve.
That box takes more than 1.0l of oil, and as I also have transfer case gears and a lot of money in the front diff, both of which are brand new, I thought it was worth putting the best stuff possible in there.
According to the spiel on it, it flows like 90W but has the impact resistance of 240W. I liked the sound of that, and didn't want to run mineral 140W in a car with very little power.
I had my reasons...
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
I applaud you steve, for someone who likes welded diffs I never expected you to lash out on good oil lol. I was going to run the same stuff but ran out of money and ended up buying 80/90. I havn't installed the gears yet so I may get the redline stuff yet.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
I'd never run good oil in a welded diff.
I don't really even "like" welded diffs, I only maintain they are a very viable option for a diff that can't readily be locked, for someone on a budget, or as part of a temporary set up, which is exactly why I welded my NT 1.0 rear.
As an example, I have doubletoughs, an airlocker, and $$ in 5.12's and setup (including a solid spacer) in my front end. It has a good breather on it and shouldn't have to come apart for a while, so $40 worth of oil in it doesn't seem like a waste.
I have stock 90W in my mini spooled, crush sleeved rear as it's no going to be in there very long.
Horses for courses.
Steve.
I don't really even "like" welded diffs, I only maintain they are a very viable option for a diff that can't readily be locked, for someone on a budget, or as part of a temporary set up, which is exactly why I welded my NT 1.0 rear.
As an example, I have doubletoughs, an airlocker, and $$ in 5.12's and setup (including a solid spacer) in my front end. It has a good breather on it and shouldn't have to come apart for a while, so $40 worth of oil in it doesn't seem like a waste.
I have stock 90W in my mini spooled, crush sleeved rear as it's no going to be in there very long.
Horses for courses.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Yeah I hear you, I always wonder why mates skimp on oil and decent octane fuel for their modified V8's and the likes. It's like paying for a gorgeous high maintenance missus then feeding her maccas every day till she gets fat lol.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
crackatinny wrote:i run a 85w 140 everywhere but the engine. cheap, quiet, hight impact, and cheap.
What does it go like on a cold morning? I tried Castrol 85w140 in my diffs last winter but it struggled to turn it first thing in the morning, felt like the hand brake was on. How does the gearbox go? Shifting must be a little lethargic when cold. I run Castrol Multitrax 75w90 in all the running gear, along with an additive (can't remember which one) as the gearbox and rear diff both need rebuilding.
i couldnt compare it as it is what was in it when i bort it, and i just use the same stuff. it is alot slower when cold but that could be the engine too.ScrawnC wrote:crackatinny wrote:i run a 85w 140 everywhere but the engine. cheap, quiet, hight impact, and cheap.
What does it go like on a cold morning? I tried Castrol 85w140 in my diffs last winter but it struggled to turn it first thing in the morning, felt like the hand brake was on. How does the gearbox go? Shifting must be a little lethargic when cold. I run Castrol Multitrax 75w90 in all the running gear, along with an additive (can't remember which one) as the gearbox and rear diff both need rebuilding.
yeah, the gearbox is a challenge, in the mornings it wont chance back to first from second when i am at the end of my driveway unless i stop, give it a rev in neutral, then push.
i am tempted to go for something thinner to try to get some form of fuel economy.
'Only Cheap Wine Comes in 5 Litres'
2" springs, 2" shackles, 2" Body Lift, 31" cooper st, 2.25" exhorst, extractors, pod filter, GTI engine, microtech, bullbar.
2" springs, 2" shackles, 2" Body Lift, 31" cooper st, 2.25" exhorst, extractors, pod filter, GTI engine, microtech, bullbar.
There's a reason Suzuki spec 90W. IMHO I don't really understand the point of 140W - It's tractor oil (i.e not designed for high speed use)
Redline do an oil that flows like 0W but has the impact resistance of 90W if you're chasing economy, but to could take 20 years to pay off the cost of the oil based on economy alone...
Steve.
Redline do an oil that flows like 0W but has the impact resistance of 90W if you're chasing economy, but to could take 20 years to pay off the cost of the oil based on economy alone...
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests