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2.8(3l) to 2.7(3RZ) conversion
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
G'day mate,
Just letting you know the 3rz is a very worthwhile conversion! I've just converted my 4Runner from a 22R to the 3rz, nearly all finished now, just need to rig up V6 handbrake and then off to engineer to get it all legal and shit. All up, after engineering, it will have set me back around 4g, thats including a 2.5in mandrel bent exhaust front to back with high flow cat, brand spankers clutch, intake piping... basically everything needed. I did all the work myself with help from a few mates to get the engine in. Oh, that price also included a body lift to give me clearances around the engine.
Air intake, all I did was get a 180 degree mandrel bent 2.5in pipe, and swung it back around to the passenger side to the standard airbox, easy and looks reasonably factory.
Tacho I cant get to work, and it sounds like its a common problem. Funnily enough, I found this thread as I was about to post up asking how to get the tacho working! Well, looks like I'll keep hacking at it till its working.
As for fuel, I used a tank from a V6 4runner with the standard fuel pump, and it seems fine.
Anyway, if you need any info, just ask, I think I found all the possible PITA problems when doin it in mine!
Good luck mate!
Simo
Just letting you know the 3rz is a very worthwhile conversion! I've just converted my 4Runner from a 22R to the 3rz, nearly all finished now, just need to rig up V6 handbrake and then off to engineer to get it all legal and shit. All up, after engineering, it will have set me back around 4g, thats including a 2.5in mandrel bent exhaust front to back with high flow cat, brand spankers clutch, intake piping... basically everything needed. I did all the work myself with help from a few mates to get the engine in. Oh, that price also included a body lift to give me clearances around the engine.
Air intake, all I did was get a 180 degree mandrel bent 2.5in pipe, and swung it back around to the passenger side to the standard airbox, easy and looks reasonably factory.
Tacho I cant get to work, and it sounds like its a common problem. Funnily enough, I found this thread as I was about to post up asking how to get the tacho working! Well, looks like I'll keep hacking at it till its working.
As for fuel, I used a tank from a V6 4runner with the standard fuel pump, and it seems fine.
Anyway, if you need any info, just ask, I think I found all the possible PITA problems when doin it in mine!
Good luck mate!
Simo
another bit of useless info on my 3rz journeys, the intake and exhaust manifolds arent portmatched, the ports in the head can be honed out 2mm or so, more power for a bit of work.
and if you need any parts for the motor let me know i have 2 3rz's of spare parts, sensors ecu's wiring , coilpacks etc.
and if you need any parts for the motor let me know i have 2 3rz's of spare parts, sensors ecu's wiring , coilpacks etc.
This is all the info you need, THANKS TO GREG its a piece of piss, only need to join
7 wires to get it running, others are optional
PLUG A (26 pin) - Connect to Computer Untouched
> PLUG B (16 pin) - Connect to Computer Untouched
>
> PLUG C (22 pin) - Connect to Computer - With the Following Additions
> (from
> the original body harness)
>
> ESSENTIAL:
> C1 Yellow +ve Constant 12V+ from a
> fused battery source - input
> C11 Pink & Black +ve Starter motor
> trigger ie. ign switch - input
> C12 Red & Blue +ve Supplied from EFI
> relay - input
> C14 Green & Yellow -ve Trigger for fuel
> pump relay - output
> 2 x 4 Pole Relays (EFI & Fuel Pump)
>
> NON ESSENTIAL:
> C4 Green & White Connect to stop
> light switch - input
> C5 Violet & Green -ve Check engine light -
> output
> C8 Red & White Tacho - output
> C9 Green & Orange Vehicle Speed Sensor - input
> C13 Green & Black 4WD Switch - input
>
> PLUG D (13 pin) - Supply the following sources into the loom
>
> ESSENTIAL:
> D1 Top Row Red & Blue +ve Supply to
> airflow meter from EFI relay - input
> D2 Bottom Row Black & Brown +ve Supply to ignition
> coil from EFI relay - input
> D6 Bottom Row Brown -ve Earthed to chassis -
> input
>
> PLUG E - Engine Diagnosis Port
7 wires to get it running, others are optional
PLUG A (26 pin) - Connect to Computer Untouched
> PLUG B (16 pin) - Connect to Computer Untouched
>
> PLUG C (22 pin) - Connect to Computer - With the Following Additions
> (from
> the original body harness)
>
> ESSENTIAL:
> C1 Yellow +ve Constant 12V+ from a
> fused battery source - input
> C11 Pink & Black +ve Starter motor
> trigger ie. ign switch - input
> C12 Red & Blue +ve Supplied from EFI
> relay - input
> C14 Green & Yellow -ve Trigger for fuel
> pump relay - output
> 2 x 4 Pole Relays (EFI & Fuel Pump)
>
> NON ESSENTIAL:
> C4 Green & White Connect to stop
> light switch - input
> C5 Violet & Green -ve Check engine light -
> output
> C8 Red & White Tacho - output
> C9 Green & Orange Vehicle Speed Sensor - input
> C13 Green & Black 4WD Switch - input
>
> PLUG D (13 pin) - Supply the following sources into the loom
>
> ESSENTIAL:
> D1 Top Row Red & Blue +ve Supply to
> airflow meter from EFI relay - input
> D2 Bottom Row Black & Brown +ve Supply to ignition
> coil from EFI relay - input
> D6 Bottom Row Brown -ve Earthed to chassis -
> input
>
> PLUG E - Engine Diagnosis Port
cheers Dan
Licenced Carpenter
I do everything, free quotes
Brisbane west/Ipswich/rural
PM me
Licenced Carpenter
I do everything, free quotes
Brisbane west/Ipswich/rural
PM me
they are typical toyota 4wd based engine, all the right plugs and connectors that are pretty water tight. we have suck it in mud twice at TT now and have never had prob. got a gut full of water at woodpecker. and it doesn't seem to hurt them. we only run a pod filter. AFM got covered in mud, so i just soaked it in carb cleaner and lightly brushed the mud off the hot wire and it still work fine!!sierrajim wrote:Does anyone have any feedback on the 3RZ with regards to water and mud ingress?
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This does seem to be the sensible option, only 15kw less than the Commodore engine and 50nm of torque less without the associated headaches of making something fit in a hole is wasn't designed to go in.1MadEngineer wrote:they are typical toyota 4wd based engine, all the right plugs and connectors that are pretty water tight. we have suck it in mud twice at TT now and have never had prob. got a gut full of water at woodpecker. and it doesn't seem to hurt them. we only run a pod filter. AFM got covered in mud, so i just soaked it in carb cleaner and lightly brushed the mud off the hot wire and it still work fine!!sierrajim wrote:Does anyone have any feedback on the 3RZ with regards to water and mud ingress?
So a 2wd bell housing works as a bolt in, wiring seems reasonably straight forward. I assume my 3L diesel radiator will work?
[quote="Harb"]Well I'm guessing that they didn't think everyone would carry on like a big bunch of sooky girls over it like they have........[/quote]
hell yeh... diesel rad is the best due to it being bigger than stock. Wiring is easier than i thought once i saw rory doing mine... uses diesel engine mounts, just have to grind the locater pins down a tad in diameter. Wack a cheap ass pod on it.. bit of vac hose to run over to the old booster with the one way valve.. dont even have to move your battery however it would be better swapping it to the other side.. fuk the gas i say. AND the best part is i recon mine, that is 3rz, 30inch tires, g52.. i recon will blow the doors off my mates auto commo conv lux. As soon as mine is engineered (tomorrow) ill be giving him a run. I did notice mine really picks up and goes after 3 grand in road driving situation, my mates say beacuse of the twin cam design? but ive got 4.7's so its towie as fuk in low n thats all that really matters
Single cab 106r - BBP Turbo 3rz
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