Had a leak from the clutch slave cylinder so replaced that bled and it was working a treat for 1 day. Found the hose that leads into it had a leak where the flexible hose joined at the fitting that goes into slave cylinder. Did not have hose and it looked awkward to get to so took to a workshop yesterday. Today car took 1 minute of it running before it would let me put it into gear and felt really light. It wont grab until the very very top of the pedal release and last bit of driving to work it felt like I was driving with the clutch half pushed in.
Taking it in on the way home from work. Rang him then and he said it just needs a pedal adjustment.
Does that sound right that it needs a pedal adjustment given that everything was working fine before the hose was replaced yesterday. I checked the fluid level this morning and it was fine.
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
GQ clutch issue after new slave cylinder and hose.
Pedal adjust ment wont make the pedal light but it will make the clutch release at the very last bit of travel.
I would say there is air still in it. Get them to have a look at it.
Light clutch could also mean a broken finger on the diaphragm of the pressure plate. Can break anytime & if it has its not the mechanics fault.
I would say there is air still in it. Get them to have a look at it.
Light clutch could also mean a broken finger on the diaphragm of the pressure plate. Can break anytime & if it has its not the mechanics fault.
Don't ask me, ask them. I'm just runnin for my life myself.
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Hi, The clutch was only light for the first minute or two when I couldn't get it into any gear, as if the car had to run and build up pressure for the clutch to work.
Once I got it into gear it seemed normal except only bitting in at the top of pedal release.
PS- This is my vehicle and had someone post on my behalf as I couldn't sign in this morning.
Once I got it into gear it seemed normal except only bitting in at the top of pedal release.
PS- This is my vehicle and had someone post on my behalf as I couldn't sign in this morning.
Was at mechanics for 45 minutes last night while trying to bleed it properly (assuming that is it). He tested the master cylinder by clamping the hose and putting pressure on pedal or something and said its fine. Seemed fine when leaving but again half way to work today it starts to grab very high on the pedal release and by the time i get to work its like riding the clutch.
Rang clutch specialist near my work and asked if they can pressure bleed it and he laughed as if it needs that to be done and should be done easily the normal way. So taking it there at lunchtime to be done. He seemed to think it may be the master cylinder or clutch if not the air.
Rang clutch specialist near my work and asked if they can pressure bleed it and he laughed as if it needs that to be done and should be done easily the normal way. So taking it there at lunchtime to be done. He seemed to think it may be the master cylinder or clutch if not the air.
this is the same problem as the braks padal falling after a while that someone else on here had last week
The push rod in the end of the booster is adjustable, if it is to long then the not all the fluid will be allowed back into the master.
This pumps up the clutch to the point where it will slip, it will feel ok after the system is bled as the line pressure is then released but it will come back as the system heats up and it used more times.
If left to cool overnight some of the line pressure releases and it seems ok.
There needs to be 1-2mm clearance between the booster pushrod and the back of the master cylinder
The push rod in the end of the booster is adjustable, if it is to long then the not all the fluid will be allowed back into the master.
This pumps up the clutch to the point where it will slip, it will feel ok after the system is bled as the line pressure is then released but it will come back as the system heats up and it used more times.
If left to cool overnight some of the line pressure releases and it seems ok.
There needs to be 1-2mm clearance between the booster pushrod and the back of the master cylinder
Just took it to a brake and clutch specialist near my work. He said it could be that but thought it would be strange if it hadn't been adjusted originally.
I have booked it in to workshop tomorrow to leave with them to figure out what it is.
Is this push rod in the booster easy to adjust as I might give that a go tonight.
I have booked it in to workshop tomorrow to leave with them to figure out what it is.
Is this push rod in the booster easy to adjust as I might give that a go tonight.
There is a small seal around that output rod in the master cylinder. I found this to be the source of a very similar problem after I replaced the slave cylinder. Replace this and you will find your problem solved. As for adjustmnt of pedals, between adjusting the inputrod near the peadal and outputrod under the bonnet in the master cylinder there is heaps of adjustment available. I have mine bting in riht down near the floor.
Al
Al
rain, hail, sleet or snow, we go!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests