Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Raising WT Flares
Raising WT Flares
I know Guy (love_mud) has done this mod, I have also seen it on a few zooks around the net.
Just wondering if who has performed this mod any difficulties you had e.t.c., pics would be nice too.
Steve
Just wondering if who has performed this mod any difficulties you had e.t.c., pics would be nice too.
Steve
yeshemesh
Steve I did this to a long wheel base I had about 12 years ago, it is easy to raise a little bit, but to go as high as Tim Hardy's red zook you have to do a lot of work on the inner gaurd.
If you were a panel beater like Tim, you would probably heat and stretch the inner gaurd and roll a new lip where it meets the outer (this is all covered by the flare mounting plate and the flare itself), but if you where a butcher like me you could make a series of cuts with the tin snips in the inner gaurd to strech it and bend them up and pop rivet them to the outer gaurd, not very elegant but it all gets covered up by the flare.
Or, you could go the way Greg has gone, and remove the inner gaurd all together.
I don't remember any of the fuel filler issue's Dozoor mentioned, but as mine was LWB maybe that makes a diferance.
Peter.
If you were a panel beater like Tim, you would probably heat and stretch the inner gaurd and roll a new lip where it meets the outer (this is all covered by the flare mounting plate and the flare itself), but if you where a butcher like me you could make a series of cuts with the tin snips in the inner gaurd to strech it and bend them up and pop rivet them to the outer gaurd, not very elegant but it all gets covered up by the flare.
Or, you could go the way Greg has gone, and remove the inner gaurd all together.
I don't remember any of the fuel filler issue's Dozoor mentioned, but as mine was LWB maybe that makes a diferance.
Peter.
droopypete wrote:Steve I did this to a long wheel base I had about 12 years ago, it is easy to raise a little bit, but to go as high as Tim Hardy's red zook you have to do a lot of work on the inner gaurd.
If you were a panel beater like Tim, you would probably heat and stretch the inner gaurd and roll a new lip where it meets the outer (this is all covered by the flare mounting plate and the flare itself), but if you where a butcher like me you could make a series of cuts with the tin snips in the inner gaurd to strech it and bend them up and pop rivet them to the outer gaurd, not very elegant but it all gets covered up by the flare.
Or, you could go the way Greg has gone, and remove the inner gaurd all together.
I don't remember any of the fuel filler issue's Dozoor mentioned, but as mine was LWB maybe that makes a diferance.
Peter.
Thanks pete, I was thinking of going almost as high as Tim Hardy's but with no inner front guards and the technique Nam has used in the rear.
Cheers
Steve
yeshemesh
bigsteve wrote:droopypete wrote:Steve I did this to a long wheel base I had about 12 years ago, it is easy to raise a little bit, but to go as high as Tim Hardy's red zook you have to do a lot of work on the inner gaurd.
If you were a panel beater like Tim, you would probably heat and stretch the inner gaurd and roll a new lip where it meets the outer (this is all covered by the flare mounting plate and the flare itself), but if you where a butcher like me you could make a series of cuts with the tin snips in the inner gaurd to strech it and bend them up and pop rivet them to the outer gaurd, not very elegant but it all gets covered up by the flare.
Or, you could go the way Greg has gone, and remove the inner gaurd all together.
I don't remember any of the fuel filler issue's Dozoor mentioned, but as mine was LWB maybe that makes a diferance.
Peter.
Thanks pete, I was thinking of going almost as high as Tim Hardy's but with no inner front guards and the technique Nam has used in the rear.
Cheers
Steve
If you go no inners on the front and a bit of tubbing on the rear the only prob I can foresee is the Fuel filler as Dozoor mentioned earlier,
good luck and keep me posted.
Peter.
Re: Raising WT Flares
bigsteve wrote:Just wondering if who has performed this mod any difficulties you had e.t.c., pics would be nice too.
Does this mean that someone has had a little rethink about selling off their li'l truck?
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Re: Raising WT Flares
greg wrote:bigsteve wrote:Just wondering if who has performed this mod any difficulties you had e.t.c., pics would be nice too.
Does this mean that someone has had a little rethink about selling off their li'l truck?
I was thinking the same thing greg.
What do you have left Steve? if it is all hush, hush or secret squirel I will understand
Peter.
Re: Raising WT Flares
droopypete wrote:What do you have left Steve? if it is all hush, hush or secret squirel I will understand
we may understand, but we still expect to be told
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
I'm not going to finish the red one, with the way work is shaping up in 04 I wont have the time so i'm parting it out and with the $$ putting them towards another one, I wanna keep it looking standard-ish apart from tyres.
ATM I am going to purchase the bits I need to mod it like tyres gears springs, shocks and then pick the right rig (SWB WT Soft top) then build it in a week.
ATM I am going to purchase the bits I need to mod it like tyres gears springs, shocks and then pick the right rig (SWB WT Soft top) then build it in a week.
yeshemesh
mud4b wrote:i thought getting rid of the inner guard was a big NO NO....
I guess it depends as different people have different reasons for doing the chop.
If you have a shiny bling bling engine like a k6a then its stands out through the missing inner guards.
I have seen a winch challenge cruiser with the inner guards removed and replaced with rubber which gave it heaps of clearance but did not stand out much.
yeshemesh
You can just remove a little bit of them perhaps - i.e. the area near the headlight is what will have to go (assuming you are not shackle reversaled)... that still looks pretty normal unless you are looking under the bonnet.
Surprisingly - no inner guards has not meant getting any more mud and dirt into the engine bay than normal (though it is summer at the moment so mud is kinda scarce)...
Surprisingly - no inner guards has not meant getting any more mud and dirt into the engine bay than normal (though it is summer at the moment so mud is kinda scarce)...
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
This is a good example. pic taken from off www.offroad.com name of the rig is samyota.
He has written a few words about the process, said it was a bit hard and he needed the help of a pro........... I say big hammer
He has written a few words about the process, said it was a bit hard and he needed the help of a pro........... I say big hammer
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
Thats the only one I have.
try http://www.zuksofarizona.rockcrawler.com/custom.html
This pic was taken from the members section
try http://www.zuksofarizona.rockcrawler.com/custom.html
This pic was taken from the members section
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 21 guests