Rear Main Seal Gone - Easy to fix?

[eXc]

Hey Guys

94 G16B Vitara...the rear main seal appears to be leaking oil (about 1L in a month)

Is it an engine out job to fix it? If it is, what else should I do? total rebuild? the engine had no leaks at all up until a month ago when this happened. It has 200,000 on the clock...

Cheers
Chris

[want33s]

You can replace the rear main without removing the engine although the gearbox will have to come out.
Drop the gearbox.
Remove the clutch and pressure plate.
Remove flywheel.
Remove the seal housing. (5 bolts)
Remove and replace seal.. (part #09283-68002) 68x86x8mm
Reassemble.
Shouldn't take any more than 2 maybe 3 hours.

[fordy1]

or 5hours

fit a bash plate underneath and that should stop it happening.

[eXc]

sweet. thanks for confirming that

That's the measurements my mate found too ($13 with his source vs $37 at autopro)



And I have a bash plate...

[lay80n]

If your going to the hassle to remove the gearbox, think hard about a new clutch too. It is more $$$, but unless yours is in near new age and condition, you could be saving yourself some time and $$$ later on. Oil and clutches do not get on well.

Layto....

[eXc]

Thanks Layto...


I was going to do that aswell

Any suggestions for a good clutch, or does it not really matter? I'll just get one from Autopro/Repco

[want33s]

or 5hours

fit a bash plate underneath and that should stop it happening.

A bash (Edit: plate) should stop what exactly?


I would have thought 200,000km was a fair life expectancy for the rear main seal.
I replace one piece seals everytime I do a clutch whether its leaking or not. Seals are only a few dollars each. Cheap preventative maintenance.
Jas.

[weaves]

with the rear main. dont just go to a the shop and ask for a seal that size.
rear mains are generally silicone and directional. the directional isnt that important, and you can get away without but if its a standard nitrile 70 duro seal (generally a black one) it will wear alot quicker and get affected by heat easier/ sooner than a silicone or viton (orange/brown coloured)

just something to think about so you don't end up doing the same job in three months time

[Gwagensteve]

or 5hours

fit a bash plate underneath and that should stop it happening.

A bash should stop what exactly?

X2 All a bash plate is going to do in relation to a rear main is make the replacement job take longer.

Steve.

[PCRman]

You can replace the rear main without removing the engine although the gearbox will have to come out.
Drop the gearbox.
Remove the clutch and pressure plate.
Remove flywheel.
Remove the seal housing. (5 bolts)
Remove and replace seal.. (part #09283-68002) 68x86x8mm
Reassemble.
Shouldn't take any more than 2 maybe 3 hours.

Any ammendments or tricks for the same job on an auto?
Help a guy who only has a haynes

[want33s]

Auto is pretty much same procedure as manual but autos have cooling lines and torque converter to worry about also. Haynes probably covers enough of it but theres always the FSM on www.suzukiinfo.com

While you are undoing the cooling lines for the auto and making a bloody red mess anyway you might as well drop the auto pan and clean it out and fit a service kit(filter).
Jas.

[fordy1]

hey want33

the rear main seal goes easily and bash plates underneath help to keep s#it away.

my 2l vit did it with 2000 ks on the clock with a very slow drive up the beach.

[want33s]

hey want33

the rear main seal goes easily and bash plates underneath help to keep s#it away.

my 2l vit did it with 2000 ks on the clock with a very slow drive up the beach.

2000km on a new seal is just unlucky but shit happens.
A bead of silcone around the bellhousing and inspection plate keeps all the crap out and is easier than fitting/removing a bash plate. IMHO
Jas.