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Have a 1997 TD42 GQ LWB with dual batteries. Calcium Hybrid start battery and Deep cycle auxillary. Problem is when I have the Waeco 80Lt on, the spotties on and the CD player pumping, the volt meter barely breaks even. The automatic battery system charges both while I'm driving and isolates the start battery when I stop so the accesories don't drain it flat.
Now the 'War Office' and I are contemplating powering up the camper trailer. I'd like to have an auxillary line from the GQ to the camper and charge it's storage batteries while driving and use the solar panel as a top up measure on long stays. Probelm is I don't think the alternator is gonna be up for it. Thought about installing a second one along side it but would like any advice or warnings before attempting it.
I understand that the wiring needs to be in parallell config and the cable to the camper needs to be pretty heavy but am unsure of the stresses the additional load may put on the drive or which is the better belt config (seperate belts from harmonic ballancer, a slave pulley off the existing alternator, or the harmonic ballancer - Alternator 1 - Alternator 2 all in one loop)
I already have a spare alternator available so I would like to use it rather than forking out big $$$ for a heavier alternator, but if the alignment of the pulleys or such things are gonna make the job a root, then I might have to just bight the bullet.
Any advice or suggestions would be great
Cheers
Contemplated same thing, but soon realised 2 alternators running in parallel was a drama with one " taking the load" of the other. or having to run 2 seperate circuits (bigger costs).
My advice being a sparky, get a heavy alt, a "smart charge" regulator, and use VSRs (voltage sens relays) on bats. have used them on boats with no dramas yet....... nothing worse than flat bats when you need em!!!!!!
The dual battery setup in my 95 coilcab is a little bit different, the problem I had was that if you were fishin for a few days u werent running the car long enough to charge the aux. I ended up putting in a second solenoid and wired it so that if I flicked my switch it would completely disconnect the starting battery and the alternator would give the aux full charge. Was told that if the main bat is full, the alternator will only trickle charge the aux. It works very well and also had the added benefit of being able to start the ute of the aux by flicking the switch. It is frustrating when the alt are only 60 amps! I dont know if the newer patrols have a bigger one but would be pricey! Hope you sort it
I thought maybe I could leave the existing wiring / circuits and set up the 2nd alternator with a dedicated circuit for the camper only i.e. K.I.S.S. principle.
The exsisting alternator seems to keep up with the present demand (if only just) and the automatic dual battery system has a solenoid which allows the alternator to flip between charging the start and aux battery. That system works OK and I'd like to leave it alone if I can.
I hear what you're saying about 'taking the load' and that is the big unknown. Am I gonna chew out alternator bearings or spit belts or worse?
Maybe the bigger unit would be worth it from a reliability point of view.
I'll see if I can track one down.
Thanks again
Dave
Igues it is appropriate that I can help here because I have just scored some help from you on my engine misfire!
I have 2 alternators on my 88 TD 42 and it was cheap,easy and very effective. In fact Ithink it is the best set up for dual batteries and I have done it to other vehicles as well.
I am no auto elec, but did not need to be The second unit sits above the original and the original drive belt is replaced with a longer one, The top rad hose has to be slipped off as it passes thtu the new belt, and both units are driven by the one belt. I have never had any slippage and run normal sort of tensions.I used a Holden alternator just because that was available cheaply at the time, and imade a bracket to hold the pivoting support and welded it to the top of the original alternator bracket. This required a lot of squinting and readjusting and a tack weld and lots of checking. Then a variety of braces and supports to see it all stayed in place and was supported at the adjustment end. The electrics just required a sparate little fuse box, feed to its own battery and supply to whatever you wish to run. Mine has a feed to the caravan and a few non essential accessories. This makes it a completely separate system and hence (to me at least) simpler and easier to follow. I fitted a second volt meter where my defunct clock used to be but it is cheaper and easy to put a 2 way switch in the line and use 1 gauge and switch it from battery one to battery 2 to check on each as required (yes my old 88 is an ST and therefor had a volt meter in the original dash ) The clearance under the bonnet is tight so the bracketry must be kept as compact as possible but it can fit with no body lift, I did ultimately put a small shroud over the top alternator puuley as it would nick and squeal on the underside of the bonnet under very harsh loadings in low range on steep uphill uneven climbs. (Ishould check those engine mounts!) This system has been in use for a few years,Quite a bit of caravanning and some fairly cruel off roading included, Am I a Lucky bugger or what ?.
Hope this helps. I am not a coputer guru So if you ask for pictures it may be slow as i will need to get help Cheers Ian
Cheers Ian
Heard back from the truck wreckers about a heavy duty truck alternatorand only just picked myself up off the floor. Bloody'ell !! Not cheap are they?
Stoked to hear that you have a sucessful system in your beast.
Yes it will be a tight fit but if what you describe is all the trouble I'll have, I think I'll have a go at it.
Wish me luck and thanks for the help.
Dave
I fitted an 85amp holden bosch alt where my a/c pump was fitted and kept the circuit separate. i used a double pully to space the belt correctly, then used the a/c tensioner so all i had to do was hard mount the alt .
I use mine to charge 4 winch batteries up.
cheers smitty
innovation is better, better is faster, and fast is all that counts
Similar to some others here, I have previously added a second alternator to my TD42 GQ and disconnected my long serving (and problem free) battery isolator. Love the fact that I now have a dedicated 85 amps ready to boot some serious charge into my second battery system and/or run accesories. Also like the redundancy factor of having twin alternators.
My second alternator position is different to the other guys and is actually located under the injector pump. Sounds dangerous I know, but in reality, it is a a long way foward of where any diesel may leak.
I modified the power steering pump bracket slightly to move the streering pump back about a pully width, and added a new second pully onto the front of the steering pump. A new seperate belt runs from the new forward steering pump pully to the alternator. Has been on my truck now for about 18 months and has worked faultlessly.
My Father has a similar setup on his TD42 GQ. His alternator location is similar to mine, but it runs off the water pump via a double idler pully. The idler speeds the alternator up by around 20% from memory. His ammeter shows a full 85 amp charge at around 1000rpm!
I have a 97 TD42 turbo coil cab and i have fitted a GU 100a altnator in the factory spot, the wiring i cut of the plug and just put two female spade conecters on. Then i ran a length of 30 mm squre wire from the output of the alternator to the main battery and upgaded the fuse next to the main battery to a 100a. Battery wise i'm running a 700cca main, and two 250amp hour 6volts , under the tray controled with a ARB Smart solinod with a 70lt Traliblazer running of them, i also have my head lights and all six lightforce lights on my truck converted to 55w HID wich helps with power draw. and have a about 6 other lights that are still helogen. I get about 4 days out of this set up with out having to start the car.
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