shackle reversal pics

Post by **zookkid** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 11:16 am

has any one got good pics of a shackle reversal conversion?
How does it work?
What does it gain?
How much is it?
Is it worth it

Post by **ofr57** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 12:15 pm

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/search.php
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic72137-0-asc-30.php

Post by **badger** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:38 pm

ofr57 did you even look yourself. the thread you posted has no pics .............. nor does any other thread on here about shackle reversals (well decent ones anyways),
just because you remember seeing a pic of one on here in 2005 dont mean its still here

Post by **zooker** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:58 pm

Theres a few pics of the Calmini shackle reversal in this thread
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic111165-0-asc-30.php

Post by **GRPABT1** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 5:48 pm

Calmini 5 inch kit with a leaf removed from the front and front diff moved forward 1 inch.

Post by **badger** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 7:59 pm

i did say good pics:P
the calmini kit is ass

Post by **GRPABT1** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 8:52 pm

Your an ass if you think the calmini kit is ass. It is top quality gear.

Post by **brendan_h** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 11:06 pm

im ooking into shackles reversal. thinking about buying the bolt on kit from snake racing or calmini or somthing. but i am SPOA and 2inch body lift (vit 1.6efi) and i dont want to add anymore height

Post by **Pixie-LWBZOOK** » Sat Jul 19, 2008 1:29 am

All i can say is good luck if you are planning on doing it in the near future!

Have you looked at the warrior kit, Im pretty sure it doesn't add height. But requires some fab work

alternatively you could fab one up yourself.

regarding the crapmini kit.

All i can say is good luck if you are planning on doing it in the near future!

i think i pretty much got the last kit in aust the other week, and the are on backorder in the states, no avaliable until dec.

that is unless your willing to fork out 2 grand to snake racing for something that retails $800 US.

Still waiting on new steering box so i cant post my thoughts on the kit yet, but looks good.

Pixie

Post by **GRPABT1** » Sat Jul 19, 2008 10:16 am

I think you will find you got screwed byt your local supplier not calmini

Post by **brendan_h** » Sat Jul 19, 2008 1:57 pm

found the warrior http://www.rjroffroad.com/warrior-shack ... 16817.html

some welding required what do i need to weld?

Post by **Pixie-LWBZOOK** » Sat Jul 19, 2008 4:09 pm

GRPABT1 wrote:I think you will find you got screwed by your local supplier not calmini

Nah, all sorted with supplier.

Must say, i would recommend 4wd USA (Western Australia) as a supplier, although, there was a bit of stuffing around, eddie was very helpful with getting things fixed. and we got there in the end.

Steering box is different story, after i had swapped pitman arm over, realized that my steering box was screwed, and worked out cheaper to get a good second handy than mine rebuilt. now just waiting for it to come in mail.

some welding required what do i need to weld?

looks like you need to weld front spring hangers to chassis

Post by **moose** » Sun Jul 20, 2008 3:13 pm

make it yourself , easier & cheaper !!!

Post by **Pixie-LWBZOOK** » Sun Jul 20, 2008 6:15 pm

looks good moose, do you have any cross bracing between the two front hangers?

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Sun Jul 20, 2008 6:53 pm

GRPABT1 wrote:Your an ass if you think the calmini kit is ass. It is top quality gear.

Does that mean they've bought some metric drills yet? 1/2" does not equal 10mm, or 8mm or whatever.

No amount of stacked dime welding or thick powdercoating will make up for holes the wrong diameter, and I'm not buying allowing for production tolerances or powdercoating.

They do some really good work, and then stuff it up with some sloppiness. It's good value, and is a bolt on solution, but "top quality" is a stretch.

Steve.

Post by **Pixie-LWBZOOK** » Sun Jul 20, 2008 7:09 pm

Gwagensteve wrote:
GRPABT1 wrote:Your an ass if you think the calmini kit is ass. It is top quality gear.
Does that mean they've bought some metric drills yet? 1/2" does not equal 10mm, or 8mm or whatever. No amount of stacked dime welding or thick powdercoating will make up for holes the wrong diameter, and I'm not buying allowing for production tolerances or powdercoating.

They do some really good work, and then stuff it up with some sloppiness. It's good value, and is a bolt on solution, but "top quality" is a stretch.

Steve.

Good Call

Post by **moose** » Sun Jul 20, 2008 8:25 pm

Pixie-LWBZOOK wrote:looks good moose, do you have any cross bracing between the two front hangers?

Nah , cause I didnt extend the chassis , we didnt think there was any need !!!

& after about 6 years of carefull(abusive

) driving , it all survived well !!!

Post by **GRPABT1** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 12:55 am

Gwagensteve wrote:
GRPABT1 wrote:Your an ass if you think the calmini kit is ass. It is top quality gear.
Does that mean they've bought some metric drills yet? 1/2" does not equal 10mm, or 8mm or whatever. No amount of stacked dime welding or thick powdercoating will make up for holes the wrong diameter, and I'm not buying allowing for production tolerances or powdercoating.

They do some really good work, and then stuff it up with some sloppiness. It's good value, and is a bolt on solution, but "top quality" is a stretch.

Steve.

Where are the holes being imperial a problem? The tolerences in my kit are alot better than 90% of the rest of the car, which in reality was designed to a tight budget. Everything on my kit fits snug and has no play or sloppiness.

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 7:40 am

There's not one hole on the Vitara kit that's the right size.

Steve.

Post by **GRPABT1** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:21 am

Ooooohhhhhh, you see I have no experience with the Vitara kit.

Post by **grimbo** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:28 am

so is anyone with one going to answer why they think they are a goodmod, what benefits they have found over leaving it alone?

Post by **moose** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 10:39 am

grimbo wrote:so is anyone with one going to answer why they think they are a goodmod, what benefits they have found over leaving it alone?

the ride quality !!!
oh yeah , approach angle !!!
wheel travel with bigger tyres , doesnt fowl on the headlight bucket , or the firewall , if the diff is moved forward !!

thats why I,m doing it again on the new build as well !!!

Post by **GRPABT1** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 10:52 am

Ooooooooooook Grimbo, the reasons I like MY kit are as follows:-

Shackles don't stick out in front of the tyres
Bumps at speed are alot less harsh
I like the way the wheel drops forward off ledges
All bolts on with no need for a welder

This may not suit everyones likings but it's why I like my kit. In the future if I built another zook I would possibly do another shackle reversal but put my new welder to good use and go custom with the diff forward a fair bit. Otherwise I'd use rocky roads YJ jeeps spring kit

Post by **joeblow** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 12:53 pm

moose wrote:
grimbo wrote:so is anyone with one going to answer why they think they are a goodmod, what benefits they have found over leaving it alone?
the ride quality !!!
oh yeah , approach angle !!!
wheel travel with bigger tyres , doesnt fowl on the headlight bucket , or the firewall , if the diff is moved forward !!

thats why I,m doing it again on the new build as well !!!

ride quality- very debatable as there are plenty standard systems that ride great.
approach angle- debatable as a good suspension with standard shackles is pretty good
not to forget that they bind up uni yokes and spit out slip joints.

Post by **Dee** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 3:16 pm

joeblow wrote: ride quality- very debatable as there are plenty standard systems that ride great.

I think 'handling' is another big factor in this one though? (excluding the brake dive of course)

approach angle- debatable as a good suspension with standard shackles is pretty good

In spoa maybe, i personally dont think spua allows for the fitment of large enough tyres to give a 'good' approach angle. (our opinions may differ on what "good" is though)

not to forget that they bind up uni yokes and spit out slip joints.

i understand the axle moving foward on droop requiring a long slip joint, but dont understand how it binds up unis?

Post by **joeblow** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 3:30 pm

if you have enough wheel travel as the diff moves down the pinion will cycle away from the tranfer- ie start pointing down rather than up to the t/case.

Post by **sierrajim** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 3:42 pm

joeblow wrote: not to forget that they bind up uni yokes and spit out slip joints.

x2, although as with most things throwing more money at it will solve this problem. A booty fab box section shaft would do the same.

Post by **grimbo** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 4:15 pm

[quote="Dee[quote]In spoa maybe, i personally dont think spua allows for the fitment of large enough tyres to give a 'good' approach angle. (our opinions may differ on what "good" is though)
quote]

so 34, 35 or 36" tyres SPUA aren't big enough?

Post by **Dee** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 4:38 pm

grimbo wrote:[quote="Dee
In spoa maybe, i personally dont think spua allows for the fitment of large enough tyres to give a 'good' approach angle. (our opinions may differ on what "good" is though)
quote]

so 34, 35 or 36" tyres SPUA aren't big enough?

i meant to go back & add to that sentence before clicking post

'without significant guard work and/or body lift...

Post by **ofr57** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 7:04 pm

grimbo wrote:[quote="Dee
In spoa maybe, i personally dont think spua allows for the fitment of large enough tyres to give a 'good' approach angle. (our opinions may differ on what "good" is though)
quote]

so 34, 35 or 36" tyres SPUA aren't big enough?

spua and 34's is

i think it would give you enough clearance underneath and not being too tall plus having to worry about spring settings like in a spoa rig

but on topic if you really want shackle reversal get a hilux

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