hey all ive rad alot about this conversion and i know pretty much everyhting i need to but just wondering a few more questions like
wat thermostat housing workes best and the cost
can u use mk1 2 and 3 engines
is the angle dive kit bolt on or is there more ot it than nuts and bolts
is ther any modification to any of the belts
if anyones done the conversion any little expensive things that poped up on the way would be great to know before hand
and finally where the bloody hell can u get a gti halfcut ive been looking everywhere and they are as hard as to get ya hands on. i have 4 grand and plenty of time and two mechanics as friends think that will be enough cash???? cheers hope i dont rak to many brains
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
gti to 91 sierra
gti to 91 sierra
1.3lt 2inch lift 2inch extshakles extractors 2inch strait through exhaust 30x9.50 firestone firehawks sunnys no swaybar upgraded headlights rodeoshock up front with patrol shocks rear
only problem with that is i am on my P plates for another 7 months and cant drive turbo cars suxs even in a zook motor they class it as high proformnce stupid but i think the gti conversion is better for me cause once thats in i can slap a turbo on it at a later date if the unis can handle it lol
1.3lt 2inch lift 2inch extshakles extractors 2inch strait through exhaust 30x9.50 firestone firehawks sunnys no swaybar upgraded headlights rodeoshock up front with patrol shocks rear
You don't want to turbo the stock motor if you can afford a more powerful standard motor, standard=reliable. AFAIK the angle drive comes with everything you need but suzisport would be the ones to ask as they sell it. the belts are all GTi if you use a thermo fan and GTi alternator. I'm not sure about the thermostat.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
if you have 7 months before you get off your p's then be realistic... if your going to do your conversion the right way.. and you say you have the time to do it, then go straight for the turbo, if you set out to rebuild your motor, buy all the right bits and get everything done how you want the first time, it will take you a few months anyhow.
you'll only end up with your truck out of action even longer if you do the turbo later, if it was me i would do it all at once, then you will only need the one eng report (more savings). you will still have to iron out all of the little bugs anyhow.
look for damaged or written off swifts, try swift forums or boostcruisin maybe.
good luck with your build
you'll only end up with your truck out of action even longer if you do the turbo later, if it was me i would do it all at once, then you will only need the one eng report (more savings). you will still have to iron out all of the little bugs anyhow.
look for damaged or written off swifts, try swift forums or boostcruisin maybe.
good luck with your build
Bornstar, how much HP do you think a stock sierra can handle? My car can be a handful in the corners and that's with only a little bit more power than a 1.3 - and mines a LWB.
A turbo GTI motor should be making at least 150HP. That's twice the power of a stock sierra. How are you planning on building the car to handle that power? Brakes, handling? Sierras handle terribly and 150hp is mostly going to make one lethal on a wet road
Additionally all that power on demand is only going to help you offroad on sand. The rest of the time you're mostly going to be spinning your wheels and trying to calm it down.
For $4K you can probably get an EFI G16B/vitara manual in there, fitted, the fuel system done, the cooling system sorted etc. If you use a Baleno coil pack motor, you'll have the same HP as the GTI but about 20% more torque. The head design of the 16V G16B is easily as good as the G13B GTi despite although it does lack the DOHC coolness. The extra stroke of the G16 makes it a much better off road motor.
If you go G13BGTI, you're pretty much committed to sierra gearboxes, a 10+ year old motor (with a distributor and much older EFI technology) dizzy clearance problems, and poor low RPM perforance, making gearing much more critical to the performance of the car.
You're going to have at least another $4K in turboing that motor and G Series motors, IMHO, aren't good candidates for boost without lots of money being spent on them. I still dont know that anyones ever boosted a G motor and had a reliable daily driver afterwards.
Steve.
Just my 2C.
A turbo GTI motor should be making at least 150HP. That's twice the power of a stock sierra. How are you planning on building the car to handle that power? Brakes, handling? Sierras handle terribly and 150hp is mostly going to make one lethal on a wet road
Additionally all that power on demand is only going to help you offroad on sand. The rest of the time you're mostly going to be spinning your wheels and trying to calm it down.
For $4K you can probably get an EFI G16B/vitara manual in there, fitted, the fuel system done, the cooling system sorted etc. If you use a Baleno coil pack motor, you'll have the same HP as the GTI but about 20% more torque. The head design of the 16V G16B is easily as good as the G13B GTi despite although it does lack the DOHC coolness. The extra stroke of the G16 makes it a much better off road motor.
If you go G13BGTI, you're pretty much committed to sierra gearboxes, a 10+ year old motor (with a distributor and much older EFI technology) dizzy clearance problems, and poor low RPM perforance, making gearing much more critical to the performance of the car.
You're going to have at least another $4K in turboing that motor and G Series motors, IMHO, aren't good candidates for boost without lots of money being spent on them. I still dont know that anyones ever boosted a G motor and had a reliable daily driver afterwards.
Steve.
Just my 2C.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
there is a guy from auszookers named norm, he had a g13b turboed and loved it, ended up killing it and is now running a 1.6l.
he was running 35's spoa. look for him and ask some questions.
personally i think the 1.6's are the better go. but if you have your heart set on the 1.3 turbo then he is one bloke you can talk to about it for some ideas.
he was running 35's spoa. look for him and ask some questions.
personally i think the 1.6's are the better go. but if you have your heart set on the 1.3 turbo then he is one bloke you can talk to about it for some ideas.
And that tends to be the outcome. G motors don't like boost.pubic wrote:ended up killing it and is now running a 1.6l.
They ping when hot, have timing and igntiion problems etc all stock. Put boost into them and they need really really good management to avoid melting - far more than most of us are willing to spend on a cheap car that doesn't need much power anyway.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
If you go on www.redlinegti.com forum steve you will find plenty of GTi swifts with turbo's as daily's. You can run about 6psi reliably with stock pistons but it's once you get greedy you blow things up. The MK1 motor has different ecu and a few other things that basically requires you to run an aftermarket ecu for big mods like turbos. The MK2/3 however can be turboed with piggyback chips quite easily and it has been done time and time again.
Still IMHO a geared down stock GTi is all you need in a sierra and if I were to turbo mine I would go forged low compression pistons for piece of mind.
Still IMHO a geared down stock GTi is all you need in a sierra and if I were to turbo mine I would go forged low compression pistons for piece of mind.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
X2
the gti engine is the strongest thing a zook will ever see.
as well you can set the cams to make more low down torque with vernier timing gears , as well as a smoother torque curve with a simple chip, where it would really benefit in a sierra.
i considered the gti engine in my sierra , but i ended up getting a 1.6 efi setup for DIRT cheap so im going that option . no doubt about how much power a gti engine can make in its stock form , little alone running low boost on stock compression and a chip , to the hardcore guys who run the forged (or vitara pistons) and aftermarket management to make over 200 hp atw . sure you dont need this much in a sierra , but its nice to know that you arent limited by anything when it comes to mods to the engine to make more power , whether it be for offroad or streetability.
the gti engine is the strongest thing a zook will ever see.
as well you can set the cams to make more low down torque with vernier timing gears , as well as a smoother torque curve with a simple chip, where it would really benefit in a sierra.
i considered the gti engine in my sierra , but i ended up getting a 1.6 efi setup for DIRT cheap so im going that option . no doubt about how much power a gti engine can make in its stock form , little alone running low boost on stock compression and a chip , to the hardcore guys who run the forged (or vitara pistons) and aftermarket management to make over 200 hp atw . sure you dont need this much in a sierra , but its nice to know that you arent limited by anything when it comes to mods to the engine to make more power , whether it be for offroad or streetability.
ohh and the only thing that limits the mk1 engine is that from factory it uses a fuel only ecu , where as the mk2/3 uses a fuel and ignition ecu , so in the later engines its easier to chip it to add more fuel and change the timing for boost , where as the mk1 really needs a piggyback or standalone to prevent detonation .
Lotus, who have built a turbo car or two in their time, have set the limit for turbo engines and durable HP/Litre at 120 for a steel block and 140 for an alloy block,
So, 1.3X140= 182 HP at the crank, closer to 120hp at the wheels, or 90Kw
Now, that's on an engine with factory durability and life - i.e, it's not hard to start hot or cold, doesn't need a rebuild every year, that kind of thing.
even the new nissan GTR actually does less than 140hp/l
I could daily drive a marginal road car for years, but pit in on a racetrack and it could break in a few laps. Thats no so different to what we expect from a 4WD motor.
Think about a daily driven G13B turbo in a 900KG swift, now put that motor in a 1200KG sierra, and stick it on a hill on a 35˚ day, with 1/2 the radiator full of mud and a tank full of stale 91 octane from your mates jerry.
I'll say it again, there's not a lot of people out there who have reliable boosted G motors, and certainly not for $4K.
If you want a toy to play with, I'm sure there are big HP numbers there to be had, but if it's got to get you to work on monday It's hard to go past a 16V G16B.
Steve.
So, 1.3X140= 182 HP at the crank, closer to 120hp at the wheels, or 90Kw
Now, that's on an engine with factory durability and life - i.e, it's not hard to start hot or cold, doesn't need a rebuild every year, that kind of thing.
even the new nissan GTR actually does less than 140hp/l
I could daily drive a marginal road car for years, but pit in on a racetrack and it could break in a few laps. Thats no so different to what we expect from a 4WD motor.
Think about a daily driven G13B turbo in a 900KG swift, now put that motor in a 1200KG sierra, and stick it on a hill on a 35˚ day, with 1/2 the radiator full of mud and a tank full of stale 91 octane from your mates jerry.
I'll say it again, there's not a lot of people out there who have reliable boosted G motors, and certainly not for $4K.
If you want a toy to play with, I'm sure there are big HP numbers there to be had, but if it's got to get you to work on monday It's hard to go past a 16V G16B.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
ok so were straying away from topic a bit and heading towards the turbo side of things scrap teh turbo idea just after some answers on the gti conversion im not after massive amountts of HP just somthing to upgrade the underpowerd 1.3
1.3lt 2inch lift 2inch extshakles extractors 2inch strait through exhaust 30x9.50 firestone firehawks sunnys no swaybar upgraded headlights rodeoshock up front with patrol shocks rear
Well as I said you are limited to mods on a MK1 without going aftermarket ecu. So intake and exhaust and probably vernier cam gears to dial the cams in a little better. You may be able to put slightly bigger cams in and run 98 octane all the time or shave the head a tiny tiny bit perhaps but I wouldn't bother. MK2/3 however you can do all sorts like, SR20 throttle bodies, chips for stock engines, cams, chips for cams, the sky is really the limit with MK2.3 engines.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
I'm sure I remember reading that a P plater cannot drive any car with a mod that requires a mod plate, ie an engine conversion (at least in QLD). Might be worth checking just in case.bornstar15 wrote:only problem with that is i am on my P plates for another 7 months and cant drive turbo cars suxs even in a zook motor they class it as high proformnce stupid
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
Have a close look at exactly what you are/aren't getting. Have you looked at how much meat there is in the bore? Have you asked if there is a head gasket that suits the new bore? Have you checked what pistons are being used and the size of the piston pin compared to stock? Have you actually calculated the new capacity?david123 wrote:I'm looking into replacing the 1.3l in my toy, and I recon as the best I have seen is the 1750cc from suzisport, if it duznt come with a torque cam Ill get one put in.
under 2 grand, new.
Doing a big bore conversion on these motors is possible but I personally wouldn't bother with this "kit".
[quote="4WD Stuff"]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
"This is a 1600cc motor with a big bore kit , parts supplied are 1.6 short motor and all gaskets to bolt it together."
This is from the site, I have emailed them a couple of questions, just waiting for an answer.
Sounds like the go to me but.
I am pretty well brand new to 4s, im 4V8s an this is me first, as a kid, red blocks, as a big kid, V8s always, so really dunno.
In the ways of V8s, there ain't no substitute for cubes. I would have prefered to see a stroker kit rather than a bore kit, but cubes (usually) means torque, and my driving/play is more of low down bottom end torque than screamin revs power.
This is from the site, I have emailed them a couple of questions, just waiting for an answer.
Sounds like the go to me but.
I am pretty well brand new to 4s, im 4V8s an this is me first, as a kid, red blocks, as a big kid, V8s always, so really dunno.
In the ways of V8s, there ain't no substitute for cubes. I would have prefered to see a stroker kit rather than a bore kit, but cubes (usually) means torque, and my driving/play is more of low down bottom end torque than screamin revs power.
If it breaks, excellent, time for an upgrade
So how much torque is 150cc going to add? An extra 10Nm?
Hows your gearing?
I've got 2/3 of stuff all bottom end torque and my car drives great off road becuase my gearing is right.
Steve.
Hows your gearing?
I've got 2/3 of stuff all bottom end torque and my car drives great off road becuase my gearing is right.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Get the answers to your questions and mine as well and then maybe have a talk to Dion at http://www.dyno-mite.com.au/ as he has done a number of big bore 1.6 engines as well as using the G16 in a highly tuned format in motorsport.
[quote="4WD Stuff"]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
Steve,
Im really not sure, is why I emailed the bloke who builds them, and I just got off the phone to him, he was too busy to talk, and will ring me back later.
I love the lil zooks, wonderful fun things to drive, tho they are pretty small for my 190cm 110kg frame.
I have always used bottom end power, and driving a zook takes some getn used to, my brother loves them and convinced my to get one, till he told me "drive it like you stole it" I had a hard time getn it to do as im used to.
You know from my post about MSD what I have dun to her, she is quite a dream to play with, and she will go in 2wd where no others will go in 4wd, tho I have yet to put her up against other suzis, which im really hangin to do.
Im a sand freak, my playground is about 20k north to south, and 10-12 east to west, I have seen tracks there ( very seldom), but never seen another vehicle, traks are from bikes. Very big hills, very soft, takes a lot of power to play well.
Too many revs between 1st and 2nd, is why im looking for better bottom end performance.
I have a set of 31" Baja claws on her, and from Port Lincoln to home is 42k (statesman kilometers) my lil zook tells me 41k, so gearing is good.
I am not sure of the ratios/RPM as I have no tako, never use one even if they are in the car, when im fanging, my arse and ears tell me what is going on.
The diff in price between a new (rebuilt) 1.6l and a 1.75ltr is only a cuppla hundred buks, bugger all IMO, so if im gunna change, why not go for broke. This is about 11% bigger than a 1.6, so, should be 11% more power/torque.
Im really not sure, is why I emailed the bloke who builds them, and I just got off the phone to him, he was too busy to talk, and will ring me back later.
I love the lil zooks, wonderful fun things to drive, tho they are pretty small for my 190cm 110kg frame.
I have always used bottom end power, and driving a zook takes some getn used to, my brother loves them and convinced my to get one, till he told me "drive it like you stole it" I had a hard time getn it to do as im used to.
You know from my post about MSD what I have dun to her, she is quite a dream to play with, and she will go in 2wd where no others will go in 4wd, tho I have yet to put her up against other suzis, which im really hangin to do.
Im a sand freak, my playground is about 20k north to south, and 10-12 east to west, I have seen tracks there ( very seldom), but never seen another vehicle, traks are from bikes. Very big hills, very soft, takes a lot of power to play well.
Too many revs between 1st and 2nd, is why im looking for better bottom end performance.
I have a set of 31" Baja claws on her, and from Port Lincoln to home is 42k (statesman kilometers) my lil zook tells me 41k, so gearing is good.
I am not sure of the ratios/RPM as I have no tako, never use one even if they are in the car, when im fanging, my arse and ears tell me what is going on.
The diff in price between a new (rebuilt) 1.6l and a 1.75ltr is only a cuppla hundred buks, bugger all IMO, so if im gunna change, why not go for broke. This is about 11% bigger than a 1.6, so, should be 11% more power/torque.
Last edited by david123 on Wed Jul 30, 2008 8:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
If it breaks, excellent, time for an upgrade
Went to the site, and its sorta ded, no matter what you clik on, same page, even contact, nothing.cj wrote:Get the answers to your questions and mine as well and then maybe have a talk to Dion at http://www.dyno-mite.com.au/ as he has done a number of big bore 1.6 engines as well as using the G16 in a highly tuned format in motorsport.
If it breaks, excellent, time for an upgrade
Dyno-Mite Performance 18 Tottenham Pde | West Footscray | Victoria 3012 phone (03) 9318 9196 | email dyno-myt@bigpond.net.au.
[quote="4WD Stuff"]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
David123, your gearing is about 20% out. Get the gearing right and then worry about the motor.
The reason you've got too many revs between 1st and 2nd is that your gearing is too tall. lower your gearing to suit the tyres and then the gaps between each gear will close up.
I can't stress enough that power/torque can't be used to compensate for a car that's geared wrong.
Steve.
The reason you've got too many revs between 1st and 2nd is that your gearing is too tall. lower your gearing to suit the tyres and then the gaps between each gear will close up.
I can't stress enough that power/torque can't be used to compensate for a car that's geared wrong.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Steve,
I make it 2.439% out, is that such a big deal ??
There is a big rev range twix 1st and 2nd, but tween 2nd and 3rd there is bugger all, wish that was for 1st n 2nd, she drops off the cam if I cannot do lightning fast changes from 1-2, often I could get into 3rd, power wise, is ok, but its a long change, and the soft sand drops revs to quick, so im stuck revin the lil girl too much.
I make it 2.439% out, is that such a big deal ??
There is a big rev range twix 1st and 2nd, but tween 2nd and 3rd there is bugger all, wish that was for 1st n 2nd, she drops off the cam if I cannot do lightning fast changes from 1-2, often I could get into 3rd, power wise, is ok, but its a long change, and the soft sand drops revs to quick, so im stuck revin the lil girl too much.
If it breaks, excellent, time for an upgrade
You cannot rev a zook motor too much (except for maybe a big bore 1600 lol). And just cause your odo reads somewhat right doesn't mean your gearing is right. What exact model is it and what mods have been done to the gearing? also what revs does it do at 100km/hr (100km/hr in the car you are following as y our speedo will be out) in fith gear? With all this info the guys here will tell you how far out your gearing is and tell you what you can do to fix it.
I have heard nothing but bad things about the big bore motors and this is from the swift brigade who do some insane mods to their motors for racing. And being a V8 person myself this sounds wrong even to me but proper gearing and boost will give you waaaaaay better power gains than 150 cubes.
I have heard nothing but bad things about the big bore motors and this is from the swift brigade who do some insane mods to their motors for racing. And being a V8 person myself this sounds wrong even to me but proper gearing and boost will give you waaaaaay better power gains than 150 cubes.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
Stock tyre size= 26"david123 wrote:Steve,
I make it 2.439% out, is that such a big deal ??
There is a big rev range twix 1st and 2nd, but tween 2nd and 3rd there is bugger all, wish that was for 1st n 2nd, she drops off the cam if I cannot do lightning fast changes from 1-2, often I could get into 3rd, power wise, is ok, but its a long change, and the soft sand drops revs to quick, so im stuck revin the lil girl too much.
New tyre size= 31"
That's a 19% difference.
Sierras aren't drivable on stock gearing with 31's.
I'll say it again, gear it right and the gaps between the gears close right up.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Well. I don't know anyone who has - it's hell on the clutch, hills are murder (on and off road) It's ok if you hate the car, I guess, but it's not what I'd call drivable.
Why, do you think sierras drive fine on 31's?
Steve.
Why, do you think sierras drive fine on 31's?
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 79 guests