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SPARE CV?
Moderator: Tiny
SPARE CV?
Im trying to find some spare CV joints... i think if im gonna break something when im wheelin itll be this. how much should i pay for a pair & anyone know where in sydney i could get em?
I got a sweater for Christmas... I wanted a screamer or a moaner!
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Daihatsu-Rocky-4 ... dZViewItem
Could email him and ask if he has any for a Feroza.
Or you could go to Suzi4 In St Mary's. They do Daihatsu parts, but be warned, he has the IQ of a peanut, and will prolly sell you a Sierra CV, telling you their the same as Feroza's
Could email him and ask if he has any for a Feroza.
Or you could go to Suzi4 In St Mary's. They do Daihatsu parts, but be warned, he has the IQ of a peanut, and will prolly sell you a Sierra CV, telling you their the same as Feroza's
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
yeah, i checked em out. they only had narrow track & i wasnt sure if its the same or not so i told him id check it out first. then he tried to cell me CVs from a swift & said itll fit easy...
which is why im not going back!!
they did have what looked like a 'scat' thing, i think thats what it called? for 1100. still runs but you get some free panels with the rust
which is why im not going back!!
they did have what looked like a 'scat' thing, i think thats what it called? for 1100. still runs but you get some free panels with the rust
I got a sweater for Christmas... I wanted a screamer or a moaner!
Narrow and widetrack cv's are the same - the axles between them may be different.... its not difficult to pull the axles and do the cv swap.
If your going to do it then its worth pulling them apart and cleaning them and regreasing. Check the boots are also in good condition.
As for breaking them, unless your front locked OR being a complete tool then IMO a breakage is unlikely as you just cant get enough load on them.
Geared, locked and big tyres however might be an issue ( I'll tell you what happens
) Its likely to be the outboard one also... but I've carried a spare one for so long I'm beginning to wonder.....
If your going to do it then its worth pulling them apart and cleaning them and regreasing. Check the boots are also in good condition.
As for breaking them, unless your front locked OR being a complete tool then IMO a breakage is unlikely as you just cant get enough load on them.
Geared, locked and big tyres however might be an issue ( I'll tell you what happens
) Its likely to be the outboard one also... but I've carried a spare one for so long I'm beginning to wonder.....( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
im thinking of welding the front diff, which is why im thinking i may need a spare cv or 2... can i find tech guids on how to change the cv in here? my mates can show me how to do it but id rather find it and call em if i need the help.
I got a sweater for Christmas... I wanted a screamer or a moaner!
No - even Daihatsu don't share the secret.....
Start at the inboard end, slide back the boot and in the cup you will find a large external spring clip ( under lots of grease ). Remove it and then the inboard spider will slide out of the cup.
On the inside axle end of the spider there's another clip that when removed will allow the spider to slide off the axle. Thats' the inboard end disassembled.
Take the boot of the outboard end.
You now need a heavy piece of round steel with a hole in it that slides down over the axle. There's a clip on the inside the outer CV that you can't see or get too.
Drop ( and I mean drop ) the circular piece of steel down the axle so it hits on the outer joint inside race. This will compress the hidden clip and the inner race will pop off the axle.
Its necessary to apply the "jolt" evenly to both sides of the race to compress the hidden clip evenly otherwise it won't come off.
Rotate the outer joints inner race and it too will come out - but sometimes its a bit stubborn so washing it in place also works.
Its easier to do than describe....
And welding the front diff is going to make a substantial difference to your traction, but the front diff's a Salisbury type which means its not overly strong by design ( the windows weaken the thing substantially ). The extra force will most likely cause the casting to fail with obvious results.
Still its a cheap "solution" - but have a spare diff ready.......
Start at the inboard end, slide back the boot and in the cup you will find a large external spring clip ( under lots of grease ). Remove it and then the inboard spider will slide out of the cup.
On the inside axle end of the spider there's another clip that when removed will allow the spider to slide off the axle. Thats' the inboard end disassembled.
Take the boot of the outboard end.
You now need a heavy piece of round steel with a hole in it that slides down over the axle. There's a clip on the inside the outer CV that you can't see or get too.
Drop ( and I mean drop ) the circular piece of steel down the axle so it hits on the outer joint inside race. This will compress the hidden clip and the inner race will pop off the axle.
Its necessary to apply the "jolt" evenly to both sides of the race to compress the hidden clip evenly otherwise it won't come off.
Rotate the outer joints inner race and it too will come out - but sometimes its a bit stubborn so washing it in place also works.
Its easier to do than describe....
And welding the front diff is going to make a substantial difference to your traction, but the front diff's a Salisbury type which means its not overly strong by design ( the windows weaken the thing substantially ). The extra force will most likely cause the casting to fail with obvious results.
Still its a cheap "solution" - but have a spare diff ready.......
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
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