how you going fellas, i know this topic has been done heaps of times.
yes i have searched but couldnt finde exectly what i was looking for.
anywyas, i was concidering coiling the rear only.
i went to a place today to ask them about it and they say i need a whole bunch of stuff and it will cost me well over 5 geez not including shocks or spings.. which is rip if you ask me. so i thought id do my research and maybe try do it my self. but need to know these questions
iv noticed that zooks with coils dont run a panhard rod.
why is that?
does it need it.
at the moment ive already got a lader bar, can i just fabricate/buy some controll arms then coil it?
how do you know the exact location for the mounts for the controll arms.
i dont want to put it in a spot where it will limit the travel.
please add things that ive missed
my specs are
89 WT
lux diffs
SPOA
cheers
norm
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coiling the rear
coiling the rear
spoa, lux diffs, 2inch suspension, 2inch body, 1.6 bored out to 1.7 turbo.. rolllllen on 35s
Norm , the biiggest thing is how capable you are , if you can weld and fabricate parts you will be fine , expecting someone else to do it and then wonder about the price , I made my links and they cost about a $1000 for parts to build A frame , this is why there's no panhard and rod and links , bushes. That said there is quite a bit to setup and if you want thre job done quickly this is where you pay the coin. $5000 grand to link a zuk rear is probably a little steep but on a bigger truck that's about right.
You will have to modify everything :
Cut and remove old diff mounts.
Remove old leaf spring mounts off chassis.
Make a A frame.
Make lower links , adjustable one's.
Make new clevaces for link mounts.
Source some sort of top knuckle for rear A frame mount.
Weld new mounts on chassis and diff.
Make sure everything misses chassis while travelling.
New top and lower shock mounts.
New shocks possibly.
Tailshaft modification and correct angles for full droop.
Check pinion roll and Uni clearances.
New rear brake lines.
Coil mounts and springs.
Some way of keeping coils captive.
Possible fuel tank mods for diff clearance.
And you might need a sway bar on rear.
Or there is a 4 link which also has no sway bar. This is also a lot of work and you must get the links in the right position. I have seen links to 4 link calculators on here , check them out.
Then there will be engineering , and blue slip , so you might need to fix other items that don't comply as well.
This would require the vehicle to be off the road for a month if you do it yourself , Cheers Paul.
You will have to modify everything :
Cut and remove old diff mounts.
Remove old leaf spring mounts off chassis.
Make a A frame.
Make lower links , adjustable one's.
Make new clevaces for link mounts.
Source some sort of top knuckle for rear A frame mount.
Weld new mounts on chassis and diff.
Make sure everything misses chassis while travelling.
New top and lower shock mounts.
New shocks possibly.
Tailshaft modification and correct angles for full droop.
Check pinion roll and Uni clearances.
New rear brake lines.
Coil mounts and springs.
Some way of keeping coils captive.
Possible fuel tank mods for diff clearance.
And you might need a sway bar on rear.
Or there is a 4 link which also has no sway bar. This is also a lot of work and you must get the links in the right position. I have seen links to 4 link calculators on here , check them out.
Then there will be engineering , and blue slip , so you might need to fix other items that don't comply as well.
This would require the vehicle to be off the road for a month if you do it yourself , Cheers Paul.
BLOWNZUK 1.3 efi,sc14 supercharger,hilux diffs,detroit lockers,stage 4 rockhopper,6 point cage,35 muddies.
Norm, MART's pretty much right on the money - This is a very complex job, and just because there are coil conversions out there doesn't mean they work properly.
The first question you need to ask is what you are trying to fix with the coil conversion. If you're trying to add travel, you'll need to understand how to control it in a tall SWB car with a high COG. MART's car doesn't run a rear swaybar by accident.
Getting the geometry right isn't easy. The shorter the wheelbase, the taller the car, the higher the COG and the more travel you're chasing, the harder it is to get the compromise right.
Ensuring when you drive it away, you're happy and the car doesn't vibrate, break or fall over is where a lot of that $5K would go.
Safe to say, nothing of what you have now is going to work.
As you already have hilux diffs, you might want to do some VERY careful measuring of a Surf/coil 4 Runner and a bundera. The surf is 5 Link ( 4 links with a panhard rod) the Bundera is three link - radius arms and a panhard.
The surf will be closer to having the right static height (or distance between the chassis and the axle) than the bundy, which will run a much wider chassis, and a much lower ride height. In any case, the surf is a better design - they seem to have lots of nice free travel.
Oh, and a small point- vitaras run an A arm 3 link (no panhard rod) but jimny's and coil sierras run a radius arm and definitely do run a panhard rod.
I would definitely try to work with an existing design. trying to work this all out from scratch is no mean feat. trying to choose all the materials, bushings, brackets etc is a pretty big challenge in itself, on top of the geometry.
Please don't think I'm being negative, just realistic.
Oh, and if you asked me, I'd coil the front first - much harder, but likely to result in a better car in the long run, and if you get the front right, the rear is easy. The most gains IMHO will come from getting better axle location and travel out of the front
Steve.
The first question you need to ask is what you are trying to fix with the coil conversion. If you're trying to add travel, you'll need to understand how to control it in a tall SWB car with a high COG. MART's car doesn't run a rear swaybar by accident.
Getting the geometry right isn't easy. The shorter the wheelbase, the taller the car, the higher the COG and the more travel you're chasing, the harder it is to get the compromise right.
Ensuring when you drive it away, you're happy and the car doesn't vibrate, break or fall over is where a lot of that $5K would go.
Safe to say, nothing of what you have now is going to work.
As you already have hilux diffs, you might want to do some VERY careful measuring of a Surf/coil 4 Runner and a bundera. The surf is 5 Link ( 4 links with a panhard rod) the Bundera is three link - radius arms and a panhard.
The surf will be closer to having the right static height (or distance between the chassis and the axle) than the bundy, which will run a much wider chassis, and a much lower ride height. In any case, the surf is a better design - they seem to have lots of nice free travel.
Oh, and a small point- vitaras run an A arm 3 link (no panhard rod) but jimny's and coil sierras run a radius arm and definitely do run a panhard rod.
I would definitely try to work with an existing design. trying to work this all out from scratch is no mean feat. trying to choose all the materials, bushings, brackets etc is a pretty big challenge in itself, on top of the geometry.
Please don't think I'm being negative, just realistic.
Oh, and if you asked me, I'd coil the front first - much harder, but likely to result in a better car in the long run, and if you get the front right, the rear is easy. The most gains IMHO will come from getting better axle location and travel out of the front
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
coils
what coils are u guys running?
Zooks are for people that aren't afraid of angles and who have nothing to compensate for
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