Greetings

[Surfection]

Hey rover people !!

If you guys read the trips/tracks section you may have noticed i bought the white rangie that was in the 4sale section a little while back. So far i'm liking it alot, it really surprised me down at toolangi what it could do with bald 33z, 2" body,2" suspension. Awesome stuff !!! I can now see why you're all rover crazy

I have a tech question for you if you wouldn't mind helping out a newbie..... When i got it the front shaft was out as the transfer had gotten stuck in 4wd and the owner had been told to take it out. He didn't have a chance to put it back in so i chucked it back in in his driveway so i could make sure the center diff lock worked. The vacuum line off the activation solenoid was also off so i thought putting it back on would fix the problem.

We took it to a park and played around a bit, the center diff was definatly locked in but i couldn't get the light to work, i could hear an air leak from said hose which was a loose fit, so i assumed it to be just that.

Now it turnes out that the center diff is completly locked in ALL the time, it's making some interesting clunking noises when it gets bound up on tight turnes etc, and it seems to slip every now and again, just one or two teeth, as i take off in first.

What are your thoughts on this, is there a fuse that could be blown meaning the light won't come on ? Is there any way for me to force it to disconnect...say by blowing air into the solenoid ?

Also what would i expect to pay for a new center diff/lock if it's cactus. [it's a 4 spd manual]

Any advice/opinions would be greatly appreciated. I look forward to sharing rover stories with you guys as things progress !!!

Jeremy

[landy_man]

Jeremy my advice to you is to get rid of the gearbox and transfer case...they are as strong as oxes but bitches to work on as the gb and tc are one unit and farking heavy...parts are getting harder to come by...chuck in an auto or 5 speed..you will be a lot happier....however to answer your question..the diff is vacumn operated and any leaks would cause it to not operate properly..fix the air leaks...the light not coming on could be the switch faulty, dead globe or even a bad earth..Old rangies suffer from bad earths and as there is no real fuse system can sometimes be hard to track...

now that you have baught the rover the very next thing you should have baught on the way home was a service manual... the british had some very interesting takes on "engineering"...and electrics...buy the service manual...

oh and yeah...we know they rock..thats why they win so many OBC's and Malaysian Challenges...

[Strange Rover]

Sounds like the centre diff has exploded and the broken pieces have bound everything up. Fairly simple to fix - you dont have to pull the transfer out to change it.

First thing to do though is to get the light working so that you know whats going on cause it may just be a vacuum leak or something.

Im still betting the centre diff has gone though.

Welcome to the club!!

Sam

[landy_man]

Im still betting the centre diff has gone though.

I'm with sam...the slipping one or two teeth thing is NOT GOOD...sounds finished

[Surfection]

Sounds like the centre diff has exploded and the broken pieces have bound everything up. Fairly simple to fix - you dont have to pull the transfer out to change it.

First thing to do though is to get the light working so that you know whats going on cause it may just be a vacuum leak or something.

Im still betting the centre diff has gone though.

Welcome to the club!!

Sam

Thanks landy_man and sam, I have a spare center diff that came with the truck, so it could be very cheap indeed !! Any tips on what needs pulling apart to swap it, or should i just grab the service manual as suggested and go with that ? So i take it i shouldn't keep driving it as it could go completly at any time ? [i'll get the light working in the morning]

Thanks again guys !!

[Strange Rover]

Just pull the rear tailshaft and then undo all the bolts on the transfer case (guessing 12 of them all 1/2in) that is just behind the hand brake drum. I think that once you undo those that rear section as well as the rear output and the handbrake drum should all come out the back in one piece (may have to remove one of the handbrake links - should be just a pin thats retained with a split pit). Once the rear output is removed then the centre diff can then be pulled out. Swap the diff and throw it all back in. Should only take a few hours to do and I would guess it would take less than 1/2 hour if you have done it before - very easy to do.

Sam

[Surfection]

Cool, thankyou sam

[Bush65]

The LT95 box is very strong (designed for the rover FC 101). The centre diff is weakest part - wear of pins & thrust washers for planet gears. The diff should be locked whenever used off road to avoid this, but many peeps don't.

There have been a few variations in the centre diff over the years eg. LS clutches, 2 planet gears, 4 planet gears.

[Surfection]

Ok, got it all out...as you guys said the center is completly rooted. I can shake it around like i'm in some sort of mexican salsa band !! Where the arrows are on pic 4 i can twist them against each other and fell it all crunching around inside the locker part, also feel all the pieces that haven't come out yet. Where the circle is there is a small chip on one of the teeth on the spline, is this gonna be a huge problem ?
So what am i to do lads ? Can i buy a whole center/shaft/gear etc ? Any suggestions on where to get one/how much i might be up for.

TIA. Jeremy

[Bush65]

You can still buy parts for these. All Four x 4 Spares at Kotara (Newcastle) have new and s'hand parts (02) 4957 1117.

Failing that I might have some used parts if I dig around.

Match mark both parts before you split the hemisphere (those group of bolts around the gear in above pics.

[Surfection]

Thanks john, didn't think of them. I've got 8 rover specialist numbers to call tomorrow + kotara so i'll see what sort of a deal i can sort out !!

[Strange Rover]

Undo the bolts that hold the gear on and the hemisphere should split in half and all the broken side and star gears and cross shaft should fall out. i would probably just replace these bits. If the inside of the hemisphere is a bit chewed then you may have to swap out the entire centre diff (the bit you have pictured) for anoter unit although If its was me I would just grind everything smooth and throw it back together (thtas if you can get new side and star gears and cross shaft).

The chip that you have circled wont cause any problems. Thats the spline that the centre diff lock engauges. Just as long as it hasent cracked through.

So I think your choices are to just replace the broken internals with new parts OR swap the entire centre diff with a second hand unit. If you go the second hand route you probably should pull it apart and put in new shims.

All just my opinion so if anyone has other ideas speak up.

Sam

[Strange Rover]

The rear output shaft (right hand arrow) should just pull out as well shouldnt it??

Sam

[Surfection]

The rear output shaft (right hand arrow) should just pull out as well shouldnt it??

Sam

I thought so too as it comes part way out then won't come any more, i haven't put it in the vice yet and tried to force it though. I can get a whole center diff [secondhand from wreckers] for 275 tomorrow, if i split it could you advise me as to where/what shims to put in. Do you know what dimensions the shims need to be sam ? Where would i be able to get them from ?

Again i really appreciate all this !!

Jeremy

[RUFF]

Whats wrong with the Spare Centre Diff you got with the car?

[Surfection]

I meant to edit that post..... the "spare center diff" that came wrapped up in the back of the truck turned out to be a 3rd member.... Useful presuming it's even for a range rover but certianly not in this situation.

Edit: It's my own stupid fault getting excited thinking i had a spare, i should have checked it when i was down there.

[Strange Rover]

The rear output shaft (right hand arrow) should just pull out as well shouldnt it??

Sam

I thought so too as it comes part way out then won't come any more, i haven't put it in the vice yet and tried to force it though. I can get a whole center diff [secondhand from wreckers] for 275 tomorrow, if i split it could you advise me as to where/what shims to put in. Do you know what dimensions the shims need to be sam ? Where would i be able to get them from ?

Again i really appreciate all this !!

Jeremy

I think that the shims go behind the star gears (I think thats what they are called - there are four of then and they arnt the side gears). These generally wear out and give alot of backlash. I think that they are all the same thickness?? and you just buy new ones and throw them in.

I have never had to do this so Im not totally sure.

Id be inclined to give the rear output a big yank - Im sure it should nrmally just fall out. The end of it may be a bit chewed in the rear side gear so that it wont come out. Probably best to split the hemisphere and have a good look.

Sam

Sam

[landy_man]

thought this might help.....from 4 wheel drives catalogue/bible


....sorry it is side ways but it will only let me post pics 800 wide x 640 high and not the other way round

[Surfection]

ok guys, just one more question.... and i feel stupid asking it !!

Where do i fill the bloody transfer case ? It's got a hose with screw on fittings that links the gearbox/transfer, and enters the transfer about half way up. This is the only thing that looks like a filler hole !! Grrr

[Bush65]

Those are filler level holes - the hose is not original. I guess oil seal between gearbox and transfer leaks and hose diverts leaked oil back.

[landy_man]

i think don kyatt actually sells a kit like this for blandcruisers....
an actual kit... .....so much for cruisers never leaking

[Surfection]

Those are filler level holes - the hose is not original. I guess oil seal between gearbox and transfer leaks and hose diverts leaked oil back.

Yeah, looks kinda like a pirtek high pressure hose or something. Anyway, got it all back together and it ain't fixed. I imagine the center prob is fixed as it was sweet from the wrecker. But it has a werid noise.
It started down in vic, we came round a 90` bend and i accelerated after and changed into 4th [big bend] and it made a thump then tick-tick-tick-tick, rising and falling with drivetrail revolutions. I pulled over checked underneith, all looked normal so after waiting a little while [and calling NAM swearing alot] we kept going. I played with the transfer lever as this seemed to be where it was coming from [stick only comes a little way through the carpet with the body lift] and after a hundred meters it clunked again and the noise went away..... It made it up the freeway for 8 bloody hours etc and now it suddenly comes back ?!!!!!