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Sierra tail shafts
Sierra tail shafts
can any one help me out, my tail shaft angles are to steep and the unis dont like it, does an one have any ideas i want to stay away from using a cv joint if its possible.
yes, lets fix the unis (which we don't use all the time) and rotate the diff and get some scary - castor stuff happenin. i recall a while ago there was a uni manufacturer(won't mention names) who was listing 1 litre stuff for the 1.3's. they will fit, but will chop out rather quickly, hence why i order vit ones for a 1.3 so i know i get the right stuff. otherwise we're gonna need more info or pics on your set-up.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
not flamin grpabt1, just gettin some horrible thoughts of diffs rotated up combined with longer shackles...about negative gazzilian castor! proper way to do it is rotate the knuckles to the original position afterwards, but that should be a job for a pro. and we still don't have enough info of his probs. i know with my vehicle weight and torque my uni's probably don't like it either, but i don't ask their opinion, they will shut up and rotate.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
Front shaft, i think he said. Dual cases would only help front uni angle.grimbo wrote:could it be the swb and the dual cases causing the tail shafts to be too short
Can you take a picture under your car while it's on flat ground and post it up?
[quote="Harb"]Well I'm guessing that they didn't think everyone would carry on like a big bunch of sooky girls over it like they have........[/quote]
Rightio, I knew that some people do angle the diff up, never knew about rotating the knuckles. You learn something new everyday with outersjoeblow wrote:not flamin grpabt1, just gettin some horrible thoughts of diffs rotated up combined with longer shackles...about negative gazzilian castor! proper way to do it is rotate the knuckles to the original position afterwards, but that should be a job for a pro. and we still don't have enough info of his probs. i know with my vehicle weight and torque my uni's probably don't like it either, but i don't ask their opinion, they will shut up and rotate.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
it more common to use wedges the rear .. less likly with the front as joe said its a big job to do rightGRPABT1 wrote:Rightio, I knew that some people do angle the diff up, never knew about rotating the knuckles. You learn something new everyday with outersjoeblow wrote:not flamin grpabt1, just gettin some horrible thoughts of diffs rotated up combined with longer shackles...about negative gazzilian castor! proper way to do it is rotate the knuckles to the original position afterwards, but that should be a job for a pro. and we still don't have enough info of his probs. i know with my vehicle weight and torque my uni's probably don't like it either, but i don't ask their opinion, they will shut up and rotate.
[color=green]Vote Earth[/color]
A Hilux double cardan joint won't allow more angle than two unis.
They're not designed to. The principle of their operation is to allow all the angle to be taken out at one end.
The correct way to align a shaft with a Double cardan joint on it is to take out all the angle on the end with one uni (i.e point the diff straight at the transfer) and then have all theh angle borne by the Cardan joint. This is because the double cardan joint is a type of constant velocity joint and vibrations will be caused if you have a steep uni angle at one and and a steep cardan angle at the other.
Basically, you need to lower the car, push the front axle forward, lower the car, cut and turn the knuckles to point the diff at the transfer and then use a double cardan joint, or lower the car, or lower the transfer, or fit a reverse rotation (high pinion) front diff or lower the car.
The front driveshaft on a sierra isn't really that short, I'm guessing you're really a bit tall.
Steve.
They're not designed to. The principle of their operation is to allow all the angle to be taken out at one end.
The correct way to align a shaft with a Double cardan joint on it is to take out all the angle on the end with one uni (i.e point the diff straight at the transfer) and then have all theh angle borne by the Cardan joint. This is because the double cardan joint is a type of constant velocity joint and vibrations will be caused if you have a steep uni angle at one and and a steep cardan angle at the other.
Basically, you need to lower the car, push the front axle forward, lower the car, cut and turn the knuckles to point the diff at the transfer and then use a double cardan joint, or lower the car, or lower the transfer, or fit a reverse rotation (high pinion) front diff or lower the car.
The front driveshaft on a sierra isn't really that short, I'm guessing you're really a bit tall.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Oh, I'll add that sierra uni's acutally allow a lot of angle for a stock uni- fa more than the US spicer style unis.
You could also move the transfer back to allow you to swap the driveshafts front to rear - adding length to the front and reducing the angle, but really, taking some height out will be the go.
Steve.
You could also move the transfer back to allow you to swap the driveshafts front to rear - adding length to the front and reducing the angle, but really, taking some height out will be the go.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
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God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
When we did the driveshafts for DRS's 40 i measured them up as we had them lying round. Pretty sure that the DC joint had less than a good single uni. That was compared to GQ and Landcruiser uni's. Didnt have a sierra one handy
Layto....
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
You;ll be able to fix the rear but you will need a cv in the front , why don't you want a front cv , I run one in my zuk and I've had no problems and my tailshaft is a home made one , Cheers Paul.
BLOWNZUK 1.3 efi,sc14 supercharger,hilux diffs,detroit lockers,stage 4 rockhopper,6 point cage,35 muddies.
I have lwb spoa on 35s and my front t/c out put is just aceptable. But I have flat rears up front. Do you really need the extra 2" from the spring lift ? With proper bumpstop spacing 35s fit mine fine it was only when I went to claws the side lugs caused my to chop out the inner guards for clearance.
Or Puals cv style drive shaft sounds good should be able to knock one up if you know some one that can weld.
Nik
Or Puals cv style drive shaft sounds good should be able to knock one up if you know some one that can weld.
Nik
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