Moph wrote:
2" OME suspension lift - better ride and flex, more expensive (around $1k with shocks) , doesn't gain you much in terms of tyre clearance without bumpstop adjustment (takes away some of the flex you gain). Raises CG of chassis and body.
The springs themselves are quite well priced; the shocks bit exy, the spring bushes are very exy and the U-bolts are above normal cost.
They're not as expensive as people make them out to be; for example, when I priced springs late last year dobinsons were about $10 more per spring, and EFS were about $30 more per spring. But I was only buying springs, bushes and bolts, not complete setups.
david123 wrote:Bull bars are supposed to bend as a sacrifice to the car, a tiny car like a suzi with a strong bar is a death trap. Even trucks have ally bars so they bend and get destroyed rather than breaking the vehicle.
I see where you are coming from and don't totally disagree. But a Sierra is a death trap anyway if you have a severe accident. My steel bar has saved my hide once, and for me thats all the justification I need.
Also steel presents some advatages out wheeling. A steel bar weighs more, and helps keep the nose down on steep climbs (damn the SWB) (I know this works against you descending, but you can go extra slow descending, whilst ascending often requires momentum). Also steel bars are easier to repair and touch up after small incidents with: trees, banks, and rocks. Also a
well built steel bar can have built in recovery points, and is easier to safely fit a winch. Aluminium bars are IMO not satisfactory for recovery of any type.
I understand there is no right and wrong answer, just varying opinions and requirements as to the bars function.
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.