60 series PS upgrade to 40 series. Anyone engineered?

[Shaun05]

Just wondering if there is anyone that has done the 60 series upgrade on a 40 series and then got an engineers approval?

I know there are plenty of people who have done the upgrade. I'm about to do it myself, and I'd rather be legal than not.

On another note, has anyone put disk brakes on the rear end of a 40 series?

[AZZA'S HJ47]

done the ps conversion however still have to get the car registered still running a 40s gnuine box with a early 60s pump i found this write up by tooheys to be very helpfull

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic46390.phphttp

there are numerous people that have suposedly put a late 75s diff assembly under the rear of the vehicle which has a factory fitted diskbrake setup (apparetly it is a bolt for bolt replacement) let us know how you go thinkin about goin disk brakes rear end ass well

[Shaun05]

Thanks AZZA. I've had all the bits for the conversion for a while now, I just hav'nt got around to throwing it all together.

I've read through most of the articles on the conversion, but I've yet to see anyone say they actually got it passed by an engineer. After all, I can't see most of this stuff being anywhere near legal, and I don't want to do all this work and then get defected for it. It was hard enough to get it passed for rego by anyone last time with it being bog stock.

[AZZA'S HJ47]

new south wales should be easy to get rego there very strict up in queensland if you are concerned about compliance you could put a genuine 40s ps box on your 40 no worries I know some people say that the 40s steering is crap but i am yet to fault my own just the shock tower i have had to modify but other than that no problems. and they can be sourced cheeply about 500 bucks for a coloum, box and ps pump and lines

[bad_religion_au]

Dazz from 3rd rock got it engineered, as did Scotto from 3rd rock, both vic.

there are plenty of others too, but those two i know personally.

what part of the conversion can't you see being legal? as long as you don't weld the steering arms/intermediate shaft, there is no real increase in fail prone points. if anything it's safer/sturdier.

[tuff 45]

Just wondering if there is anyone that has done the 60 series upgrade on a 40 series and then got an engineers approval?

I know there are plenty of people who have done the upgrade. I'm about to do it myself, and I'd rather be legal than not.

On another note, has anyone put disk brakes on the rear end of a 40 series?

Ive had 60 series pwr steering engineered on a 40, no problems. Ive put a 75 series disc brake rear diff in a 40 and they do bolt straight in. There are disc brake rear ends on ebay for 40 series for $799 but they do not have the hand brake on the diff, hand brake has to be on the transfercase. Buy a 75 series diff and put in, you get disc brakes and hand brake on the diff, just my opinion.

[flyology]

I have 60 series power steering on a FJ55, blueplated in Queensland. Also other mods including tilt column, modified shock mounts, (like a 60) and bucket seats.

[Shaun05]

Thanks for the replies fellas. I thought that drilling and welding the chassis would be illegal, aswell as butchering the shock tower. What did you do to your shock tower? To me, it looks like id need to cut half of it away. However, if its been done before, and passed by an engineer, I'm happy.

I may have to rethink cutting and welding a 55 series intermediate shaft too.

Thanks for that guys. Much appreciated.

Shaun.

[flyology]

I changed my shock towers to 60/75 series towers, bit of extra work as you then have to weld the brackets on to the top of the diff housing so you can run the 60/75 plates with the lower shock mount on them.

I used and 55 intermediate shaft and had it cut and resplined, I cant remember the name of the engineering place that did it, was around Archerfield in Brisbane.

The bloke that did the mod plate was very happy with all my conversions and had no problem passing them all.

One thing I do recomend, is if possible, do all your mods in one hit, or you will have a collection of blue plates....

[Shaun05]

You had it cut and resplined? Was this to maintain shaft concentricity? How long did you have to make it? I have to add about 420mm to mine. I was under the assumption that you couldnt cut and reweld the intermediate!

With the shock towers, I was thinking I would go for the F250 towers that others have used.

[flyology]

Sorry, just remembered that it was the lower part of the steering column (75 series tilt column) shaft I had done. No welding was done, it was cut and resplined.

[bad_religion_au]

Thanks for the replies fellas. I thought that drilling and welding the chassis would be illegal, aswell as butchering the shock tower. What did you do to your shock tower? To me, it looks like id need to cut half of it away. However, if its been done before, and passed by an engineer, I'm happy.

I may have to rethink cutting and welding a 55 series intermediate shaft too.

Thanks for that guys. Much appreciated.

Shaun.

Drilling 4 holes? no problem there, i mean there are about 70 holes drilled in the chassis from factory without a drama.

not sure what your welding to the chassis. i did mine completely without a welder...

the shock mount can be removed, and moved forward/back by drilling new holes, or get a new one (i.e. F250 towers).

if your using complete, unmodified parts from other vehicles, engineers love it, because toyota/whoever manufactured the parts already went through the destruction testing.

as for the intermediate shaft, get a 75 series intermediate shaft, drill out the plastic grommet that stops it collapsing (it's a collapseable column), and slide it to length. again, completely as the manufacturer intended it to be, so no drama's.

[bad_religion_au]

You had it cut and resplined? Was this to maintain shaft concentricity? How long did you have to make it? I have to add about 420mm to mine. I was under the assumption that you couldnt cut and reweld the intermediate!

With the shock towers, I was thinking I would go for the F250 towers that others have used.

you can either respline (expensive) or get a 75 series intermediate, and collapse it to length. (as i said above, it's a collapseable column).

[Stoive]

i have 60 series crossover power steering box mounted on the chas rail with the 60's uni and slip joint ont he back of it, with the spline cut off and two flats machined onto it

also a 40 series steering column, with the rag joint cut off, and two flats machined onto that shaft, between the two i have a billet uni joint, coupling and DD bar all from www.flamingriver.com

on the back of the plate that holds the column to the firewall, i made a bracket that holds a carrier bearing for the steer shaft, its now all engineered and legal, i will try get some pics up

splines are expensive to get cut but any old punter can do flats, the toyo steer rods are all just over 19mm, and all the flaming river stuff is 3/4 so machining flats at skimming the toyo stuff turns it into DD bar, simple and easy, i get the flaming river stuff at the right price through work too, thats the only reason i went that way

[Shaun05]

Thanks for the info guys. Now all I need is a 80 series rag joint. I've been to a few wrecker with no joy. If anyone has one they want to sell or know where I can get one in Sydney, let me know.

[joel HJ60]

What's a rag joint?

[Shaun05]

Cushion joint, steering coupler, flexible steering coupler. Whatever you wanna call it.