this tech has been asked for for a while, so here is is with pics. I am leaving out ALL the bits involved in pulling the hub, changing the wheel bearing etc as it is covered more than adequately elsewhere on the web.
so here we go:
1. Remove any busted off 8mm studs. use cobalt or other very hard drill bits if you can get your hands on them. use quality stud extractors. the grief of inferior tools for this job is not worth it.
2, Drill out 8mm holes to 8.7mm, use a drill press to ensure the holes are true and parallel. this can be done with the hub on the vehicle but it SAVES time and grief to do it properly with the hub off - keeps studs parallel and keeps bearing grease free.
tap holes with M10x1.25 tap, being careful to run the tap true - starting with a taper tap makes it easier. blow out all the holes with comprssed air and fit new studs.
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Upgrading Toyota Axle Studs to 10mm 10x series Studs
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Upgrading Toyota Axle Studs to 10mm 10x series Studs
Last edited by dumbdunce on Tue Jan 06, 2004 12:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
3. Install wheel bearing and seal to hub, repack bearing, reinstall hub on axle including lock washer, ARN* and locking screws. Check and adjust bearing preload as necessary.
*Annoying Retaining Nut.
4. this is the cutter I made by regrinding a coutersink drill bit. it worked fine on front hubs a few weeks ago but it couldn't cope with the forged rear axle flanges. if I am doing this job again (and I will) I will get a tool made. this one made no impression on the rear flanges, it just went very blunt very quickly.
*Annoying Retaining Nut.
4. this is the cutter I made by regrinding a coutersink drill bit. it worked fine on front hubs a few weeks ago but it couldn't cope with the forged rear axle flanges. if I am doing this job again (and I will) I will get a tool made. this one made no impression on the rear flanges, it just went very blunt very quickly.
Last edited by dumbdunce on Tue Jan 06, 2004 12:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
continued...
5. Before cutting the new tapered holes, all 6 holes are hogged out to 10.5mm to pass the new fatter studs. 10mm is not enough for the shank of the stud. (they measure around 10.2 - 10.3, this gives a little space to allow for inaccuracies in drilling etc.
6. I am not proud of this!! Using a die grinder and the new tapered washers as a template, I ground the new cups in the axle which took about 20 minutes. I used a coarse tapered cutter which was narrower that the required taper then a finer stone, ground to the correct taper, to finish. the results are OK but not as good as they would be with a machine finish.
7. Test fitting the cone washers in the new tapers. the one at the top is done, the lower left is almost there.
5. Before cutting the new tapered holes, all 6 holes are hogged out to 10.5mm to pass the new fatter studs. 10mm is not enough for the shank of the stud. (they measure around 10.2 - 10.3, this gives a little space to allow for inaccuracies in drilling etc.
6. I am not proud of this!! Using a die grinder and the new tapered washers as a template, I ground the new cups in the axle which took about 20 minutes. I used a coarse tapered cutter which was narrower that the required taper then a finer stone, ground to the correct taper, to finish. the results are OK but not as good as they would be with a machine finish.
7. Test fitting the cone washers in the new tapers. the one at the top is done, the lower left is almost there.
Last edited by dumbdunce on Tue Jan 06, 2004 12:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
continued:
8. clean up the axle and install it to the hub, be sure to renew the gasket with the 100 series item or use a FIP gasket/sealant. I had to use 2 washers on each stud, perhaps the 100 series axles have thicker flanges. also next time I will put the studs in the other way - drill and tap deeper holes, as there is a lot of thread sticking out there to snag on rocks and things. drive it for a couple of days and inspect for tightness. looks butch doesn't it!
8. clean up the axle and install it to the hub, be sure to renew the gasket with the 100 series item or use a FIP gasket/sealant. I had to use 2 washers on each stud, perhaps the 100 series axles have thicker flanges. also next time I will put the studs in the other way - drill and tap deeper holes, as there is a lot of thread sticking out there to snag on rocks and things. drive it for a couple of days and inspect for tightness. looks butch doesn't it!
Last edited by dumbdunce on Tue Jan 06, 2004 12:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Notes:
1. vehicle is a 1986 HJ60, but the procedure should apply to any full floater cruiser. front axle is a bit easier as the cast hub is easily drilled and it can be done on a drill/mill much more easily than the rear.
2. Studs are afermarket 'Karsons' supplied by Don Kyatt's, around $5 each. each stud kit contains stud, tapered washer, spring washer, and nut.
3. All care, no responsibility, yadda yadda. if you chooses to make this mod, you're on your own!
4. I have done similar on the rear of a HZJ75 using bolts instead of studs, and without cone washers, relying only on the bolt through the enlarged hole. I am not happy with this method and do not endorse it in any way (but that truck sees competition use and it's not busted yet.)
good luck
Brian
1. vehicle is a 1986 HJ60, but the procedure should apply to any full floater cruiser. front axle is a bit easier as the cast hub is easily drilled and it can be done on a drill/mill much more easily than the rear.
2. Studs are afermarket 'Karsons' supplied by Don Kyatt's, around $5 each. each stud kit contains stud, tapered washer, spring washer, and nut.
3. All care, no responsibility, yadda yadda. if you chooses to make this mod, you're on your own!
4. I have done similar on the rear of a HZJ75 using bolts instead of studs, and without cone washers, relying only on the bolt through the enlarged hole. I am not happy with this method and do not endorse it in any way (but that truck sees competition use and it's not busted yet.)
good luck
Brian
Thats a pretty nice 60 man hehe
Chris came round a couple of days ago and goes what are these from holding up sheared axle studs. To many 35mtr burnouts on the road cause he hadnt off roaded in ages so i reckon u will be getting a call fom him soon for the 100 series conversian as well
Chris came round a couple of days ago and goes what are these from holding up sheared axle studs. To many 35mtr burnouts on the road cause he hadnt off roaded in ages so i reckon u will be getting a call fom him soon for the 100 series conversian as well
Do not have sexual relations with your father's sister; she is your father's close relative
Leviticus 18:12
Leviticus 18:12
wat we do here with the busted 1s is re drill to 10 mm , but use the m10 capp head bolts about 35 mm long (all grade 8 or better) and spring washers. do away with the dowels and the tappered washers, and just drill the axle out to 10.2 mm. ive done countless numbers of these at work and never had 1 fail yet...( i hope).. 
Sweet write up! And now it's in the archives forever and ever... My buddy and I just picked up FF rears a month ago. Mine's already under my rig and runnin' around, but if my buddy ever does anything with his, I think we'll be tryin' it out. Got access to a machine shop that can do the work for us for cheap too. I think maybe I'll try it on mine in the spring time--it's too bloody cold without a shop to work in right now, so I'm not gonna attempt it myself right now.
Anyway, I had a question on it... Step two is to drill out to 9.7 mm. You do that and then use a 10 mm tap correct? And you used the 100 series FF stud kit right?--are they 10mmx1.25?
Oh ya, and ya, I'm a noob...
-Ferg-
I think maybe I'll try it on mine in the spring time--it's too bloody cold without a shop to work in right now, so I'm not gonna attempt it myself right now.
Anyway, I had a question on it... Step two is to drill out to 9.7 mm. You do that and then use a 10 mm tap correct? And you used the 100 series FF stud kit right?--are they 10mmx1.25?
Oh ya, and ya, I'm a noob...
-Ferg-
Ferg | 2002 CC Frontier 4x4
[url=http://www.desertcruzer.com/elock1.htm]80 Series E-Lock Diffs Retrofit for FJ60[/url]
[url=http://www.desertcruzer.com/elock1.htm]80 Series E-Lock Diffs Retrofit for FJ60[/url]
theferg wrote:Anyway, I had a question on it... Step two is to drill out to 9.7 mm. You do that and then use a 10 mm tap correct? And you used the 100 series FF stud kit right?--are they 10mmx1.25?
-Ferg-
yeah I think that bit got chopped off when I put the instructions in the photo captions. and that is a typo! it should be drill to 8.7mm! 11/32" is almost spot on.
the stud kits are for the 100 series, yes. the thread is M10x1.25
Ive been doin a similar conversion for some time now and had 30deg included angle cutter made up to do the job on the axles. I also remove the 7mm dowels and fit the 100 series 10mm dowels. I fitted 78 series free wheeling hubs on the front but this is more complex as the pitch circle diameter (PCD) on all cruisers up to and including 80's is 90mm PCD and the 78, 79 & 100 series went to 92mm PCD so the stud holes need to be opened up on a milling machine with a slot drill. Im using genuine axle studs (Toyota sponsored) on mine and have used karsons on mates trucks with no problems. Im running a BB Chev with upto 40' tyres and had no issues since.
There is only one small problem with your conversion. Because the spring washers hang slightly over the edges of the axle, they foul on the brake drum when you need to remove it. When I did Monty's brakes the other day I needed to undo the nuts and remove the washers, not that thats hard or anything. Still, the 10mm studs are far better than the factory 8mm ones.
If you want a spare 60 for bits-
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=1109227#1109227
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=1109227#1109227
Didnt mind taking out the 6studs though to change the brakes as it sure beats chris who is curerently caring around a drill, easy outs and another set of axle studs as he generally is going through a set every trip off road or every time he races club sport commodores hehehe
Do not have sexual relations with your father's sister; she is your father's close relative
Leviticus 18:12
Leviticus 18:12
Re: !
Marshall wrote:Yes dumbdunce a 3f can spin 35's
In light of "new" information from a reputable source, the salesman that supplied your mags can now inform you Mr Marshall that due to mitigating circumstances the warranty period for those rims has definitely expired.
i have seen the 10mm studs break out of the hub as there is not alot of meat there when using 10mm studs and dowels ....\
that why i started doing a mod to the hub and axles ......
i have all the jigs to do the mod ....
from $70-00 a side
$70-00 is when u remove the hub and axle .....
it has been tested on a 355 stroker holden v8 with alloy yellaterra
Dave Bennett heads FLOWED TO 550 + HP
ring me if your interested in this mod ......
that why i started doing a mod to the hub and axles ......
i have all the jigs to do the mod ....
from $70-00 a side
$70-00 is when u remove the hub and axle .....
it has been tested on a 355 stroker holden v8 with alloy yellaterra
Dave Bennett heads FLOWED TO 550 + HP
ring me if your interested in this mod ......
L.C. AUTOMOTIVE PH:0754827077
4x4 PARTS + ACCESSORIES
TYRE WHEELS & RADIATORS - A/C
1 DuRIETZ COURT GYMPIE 4570
4x4 PARTS + ACCESSORIES
TYRE WHEELS & RADIATORS - A/C
1 DuRIETZ COURT GYMPIE 4570
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