Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
got an 80 series need opinons?
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
got an 80 series need opinons?
just got my 96 model 80 series hawksbury edition a few days ago. and just wondering what ideas people would have to help me build the ultimate 4x4 which would be still road worthy a little bit. i have so far put a huge sound system in it, mounted my new light force xgt's, roof rack and getting snorkal fitted on monday. the car already came with dual battries, bullbar and towbar. just as soon as i sell my other car i will be getting started on it. so if people would give ideas on where to start or even some pics that would be great.
cheers brad,
cheers brad,
Don't know about laws down there, (Think they're easier than up here) But a 2 inch under the body after the 3-4 in the springs is sweet. Did mine recently. Pig of a job though. Radiator needs dropping, hole in firewall where steering arm goes through needs elongating (If that's a word) and need to chop and bit a bit around the gear sticks. Glad it's done tho.
"96 80 series, 3' spring, 2'body, t'dog shocks,305/70 MTZ's, and plenty of gas (ask the missus), Zook's gone now, too broken for me to fix.
You need to deceide what sort driving you want to do in the cruiser.
If you weapon that can handle anything and go anywhere you will need a different setup to a tourer.
Huge stereos, and lights all over the bar work wont get you up the track further.
If you weapon that can handle anything and go anywhere you will need a different setup to a tourer.
Huge stereos, and lights all over the bar work wont get you up the track further.
My Cruiser is Environmentally Friendly.
It runs on recycled Dinosaurs.
It runs on recycled Dinosaurs.
Body lift is heaps cheaper and keeps your center of gravity low too. Spring lift is big bucks if you go that high, cause of all the other things you need with it, eg castor correction, adjustable panard rods, cardinal shaft or free wheel hubs. But if you have the $$ sweet.
"96 80 series, 3' spring, 2'body, t'dog shocks,305/70 MTZ's, and plenty of gas (ask the missus), Zook's gone now, too broken for me to fix.
Pastorslim what advantage is a body lift going to be for him ????
It keeps your center of gravity low ????? including all your barwork !!!!
In no way is this going to improve the off road performance of the vehicle.
Cardinal shaft
It keeps your center of gravity low ????? including all your barwork !!!!
In no way is this going to improve the off road performance of the vehicle.
Cardinal shaft
YOUR 4X4 ACTION
personalized 4x4 d.v.d's
"Let us capture your action" [url=http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=QefnzCt975c][b]Click Here To View Our Video Trailer[/b][/url]
personalized 4x4 d.v.d's
"Let us capture your action" [url=http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=QefnzCt975c][b]Click Here To View Our Video Trailer[/b][/url]
Of course the bars have to go up too. If you go 3 inch in the springs and 2 in the body you get five for the price of a 3 inch spring lift. Keeping your engine low reduces body roll.
You need (should have) a cardinal shaft in the front if you want to go 3- 4 or higher in the springs because the angle at the front uni can detroy it and it makes a hell of a noise at 90+km/h. I put in a free wheel hub kit so the front does not spin at high speeds on the highway.
Body lift has no advantage for off road??
If your sills are two inches further from the rocks, and there's two more inches of clearance under the guards for your big rubber, there's the advantage. (The one I like is it costs about $140 instead of a couple grand.)
I have 3 in the springs and 2 in the body= 5in plus my 285/75/16's and it's sweet.
Of course for flex, a body lift is not as effective as a spring lift but you still get your guard clearance.
Here's mine. The front bar went up by simply redrilling the holes and I made the rear bar with the lift in mind to hide the gap. (I've since hung a tyre carrier and number plate of the rear bar so it doesn't look as chunky now)
Not rocket surgery!!
You need (should have) a cardinal shaft in the front if you want to go 3- 4 or higher in the springs because the angle at the front uni can detroy it and it makes a hell of a noise at 90+km/h. I put in a free wheel hub kit so the front does not spin at high speeds on the highway.
Body lift has no advantage for off road??
If your sills are two inches further from the rocks, and there's two more inches of clearance under the guards for your big rubber, there's the advantage. (The one I like is it costs about $140 instead of a couple grand.)
I have 3 in the springs and 2 in the body= 5in plus my 285/75/16's and it's sweet.
Of course for flex, a body lift is not as effective as a spring lift but you still get your guard clearance.
Here's mine. The front bar went up by simply redrilling the holes and I made the rear bar with the lift in mind to hide the gap. (I've since hung a tyre carrier and number plate of the rear bar so it doesn't look as chunky now)
Not rocket surgery!!
Last edited by pastorslim on Sat Sep 13, 2008 3:47 pm, edited 3 times in total.
"96 80 series, 3' spring, 2'body, t'dog shocks,305/70 MTZ's, and plenty of gas (ask the missus), Zook's gone now, too broken for me to fix.
Not legal in QLD eitherpastorslim wrote:Of course the bars have to go up too. If you go 3 inch in the springs and 2 in the body you get five for the price of a 3 inch spring lift. Keeping your engine low reduces body roll.
You need (should have) a cardinal shaft in the front if you want to go 3- 4 or higher in the springs because the angle at the front uni can detroy it and it makes a hell of a noise at 90+km/h. I put in a free wheel hub kit so the front does not spin at high speeds on the highway.
Body lift has no advantage for off road??
If your sills are two inches further from the rocks, and there's two more inches of clearance under the guards for your big rubber, there's the advantage. (The one I like is it costs about $140 instead of a couple grand.)
I have 3 in the springs and 2 in the body= 5in plus my 385/75/16's and it's sweet.
Of course for flex, a body lift is not as effective as a spring lift but you still get your guard clearance.
Here's mine. The front bar went up by simply redrilling the holes and I made the rear bar with the lift in mind to hide the gap. (I've since hung a tyre carrier and number plate of the rear bar so it doesn't look as chunky now)
Not rocket surgery!!
My Cruiser is Environmentally Friendly.
It runs on recycled Dinosaurs.
It runs on recycled Dinosaurs.
Oh yeah, I had to edit my post where I said I had 385's, they're 285's and although you can only go 2.5 in the springs, it's a bit hard to tell that it's 3 and it might sag a bit. Don't want to attract the wrong kind of attention hey?
"96 80 series, 3' spring, 2'body, t'dog shocks,305/70 MTZ's, and plenty of gas (ask the missus), Zook's gone now, too broken for me to fix.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests