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1fzfe wont start

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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1fzfe wont start

Post by scottmcguinness172 »

hey all i done a engine swap on my 80 series from 3f to 1fzfe the time has come to start it and it wont there is fuel there and spark no dash lights come on tho when the ignition is on any help would be great
1992 Dual Cab 80 series cruiser Factory Turbo 35"mtz's 5" Lift, Rear Locker
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Post by joel HJ60 »

Start simple.


Fuses?
[b]1985 HJ60[/b]

[url]http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons[/url]
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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

checked all of them i pulled one of the plugs out and checked spark plenty of spark there
1992 Dual Cab 80 series cruiser Factory Turbo 35"mtz's 5" Lift, Rear Locker
Team Blue Dog Off Road
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Post by joel HJ60 »

Bad earth?
[b]1985 HJ60[/b]

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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

earth is on the block fine
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Post by Struth »

So is this right,

It cranks on the starter,
There is fuel getting through,
And there is spark at the plugs,

but it wont start?

Cheers
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Post by Struth »

Is the firing order correct?
maybe 180 degrees out?

It should simply start given what you have explained, does it fire then stop when you stop cranking the starter, or does it not fire at all?

Cheers
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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

it cranks fine just no start up and run the error code is 21 which is the oxygen sensor or the ecm circit the oxy sensor is plugged in but what does it mean about the ecm circit??
1992 Dual Cab 80 series cruiser Factory Turbo 35"mtz's 5" Lift, Rear Locker
Team Blue Dog Off Road
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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

its not back firing or poping out the throttle body or exhaust so the timing should be fine
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Post by dow50r »

scott, ecm stands for electronic control module, or efi computer. Most of the dash lights get earth when the motor is not running through the alternator. Did you put the injecter earth tab to the inlet manifold? You obviouskly have power to the ecu (ecm) but do u have accessories and on and start power?? There are 3 powers to measure at the computer...check the batterypositive as there are three wires to the black box there that are fuseable links...
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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

i have most the lights on the dash now just gotta try to get it runnin now ill check all the stuff tomorrow as im going to a party i shall post again tomorrow
1992 Dual Cab 80 series cruiser Factory Turbo 35"mtz's 5" Lift, Rear Locker
Team Blue Dog Off Road
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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

does the altinator "HAVE" to be spinning to start these things cause i dont have the belts on it?
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Post by joel HJ60 »

Pulling this straight out of my arse...

...does the alternator send a signal to the dash or ECM via the excitor wire?

Surely tho you could bust an alternator belt and still get home?

Throw it on and find out :)
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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

man there is 30 thousand wires in this car i hate petrols why cant it be like the old 308s all ya need is fuel spark and ignition and away they go none of this computer bullsh!t
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Post by dow50r »

Scott
The answer to your question is yes, it will work with the alt sitting there wired up. The regulator in the alt gives earth to all the lights that come on b4 starting and go out afterwards....
You need to make sure everything is wired up...because the computer is connected to everything. You then need to follow the wont start diagnostic in the book...follow the power to the ecu, because if you have fuel and you have spark......to prove you have the timing right, you COULD squirt fuel in the top of the throttle body, via the tappet cover hose, and turn it over...if it tries to start, you have proved its no injecter signal and electrical.
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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

ok ill try the fuel down the throttle body anything is worth a try now if this doesnt work looks like the dash is coming back out :bad-words:
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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

in the book for the errors just says oxy sensor or ecm circet thats it
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Post by dow50r »

scottmcguinness172 wrote:ok ill try the fuel down the throttle body anything is worth a try now if this doesnt work looks like the dash is coming back out :bad-words:
You mean the glovebox for the computer??
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Post by dow50r »

scottmcguinness172 wrote:in the book for the errors just says oxy sensor or ecm circet thats it
It should give you instruction on where to check....i once forgot to connect the oxygen sensor, and it didnt throw a code at all, used heaps of fuel, went well, no problems, so at a guess you have a lack of power to the computer....i will do more looking for my book for you ok
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Post by killalux »

couple of things to check, you said it has spark, so that means the ecu is getting all it's signals and has power to it.
You said there is fuel getting there, Is there enough fuel pressure though? fuel pressure regs tend to leak if they have sat for a while and gone hard. Only way to check this is with a pressure gauge.
if that is ok, is there power to the injectors?? you should be able to feel them tick while cranking. check you have power to them first.

Basically as with any engine if you have spark, fuel, air and compression it will go.
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Post by dow50r »

Scott, i have found my photostated book, error code 21 is oxygen sensor or ecm as you say, it lists one cause is a shorted heater in sensor, seeing as though the motor hasnt started to throw an oxygen sensor malfunction and the sensor was secondhand, im guessing it has shorted heater. Try taking out the efi fuse for 15 seconds to reset, if 21 comes back up disconnect sensor at plug and redo, if it still comes up, it must be ecm its warning about. efi fuse is the middle fuse of 3 in line in the box under the bonnet.
On the front page is a diagram of all the things feeding the computer, you have battery power, but if the ignition switch is not getting to the computer via circuit opening relay,and circuit breaker before that, giving computer permission to inject fuel...your up the creek.
I would put a pin in every round circuit breaker on the dash incase one is tripped. The diagramme shows one between the battery and the circuit opening relay...bet its that.hang on, if that was no good, your fuel pump would not work...this is melting my brain too....
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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

i put the multimeter on the injectors and they are getting power
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Post by dow50r »

http://forums.bauchan.org/portal/downlo ... cid=17&p=1

This has heaps of Toyota manuals downloadable...it has to be firing order...could it be that you are 180 out?
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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

that is the next thing in line if this doesnt work i dont know what im going to do
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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

but would it be showing the error code 21 if it was 180 deg out with the timing?
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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

checked the timeing appears to be fine anymore ideas?
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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

ok now ive got the shits should i take it to a mechanic or auto elec??
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Post by Phil M »

Gday

I'm only a beginner at playing with engines so excuse me if this sounds stupid. You guys sound like you know your shit.

A mate had a problem that sounded similar with his 105 with 1FZFE.
I went and had a look and it had fuel and power and we couldn't work it out.
We gave up and sent it to a auto elec. and found that all it was, was a flat battery in the key that de activated the imobiliser.(didn't even know the key had a battery in it)

Cheers Phil.
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Post by scottmcguinness172 »

yea my truck doesnt have a immobilser anymore
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Post by killalux »

My guess would be fuel pressure, try crimping the fuel return line while starting it, this should give some pressure, if it is the reg that is faulty.

Also you do have the feed line and return line the correct way around. have seen that done before.
And it is an EFI fuel pump.
Also what do the spark plugs look like? if they are fouled up it won't fire.

As i mentioned before, if the car has spark and the injectors have 12v then all your power supplies should be good.

I would recommend Action auto electrics on the northside of brissy., if you do take it somewhere.
KILLA KUSTOM KABLES
CUSTOM AUTO ELECTRICAL SPECIALISTS
0404811498
LS1 & DURAMAX ENGINE CONVERSIONS, DRIVE IN DRIVE OUT. PATROLS AND CRUISERS

LS1 STANDALONE HARNESS $475ex
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