just did ruf to my car redrilled hanger, longer shackles. and i need to get 1inch longer shocks which is fine. but i read that ruf give you about 3inch of extra travel? i extend my shackles 1 1/2 inchs
there is nothing limiting travel i unbolted the shocks, brake lines are fine only other thing i just though off is my steering so i will have to cheak that.
the rear springs i got from the wreckers and they measure 1000mm sitting on the car springs are dead flat or close enough. they have a spring retainer at both ends thats are bolted on and i cut 1 of them off. just thinking if i should cut the 2nd retainer off? the are 4leafs in total when i got them
used stock springs.
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just did ruf no gain in flex?
just did ruf no gain in flex?
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
You have gone from completely flogged front springs to the flattest possible rear springs - It's not surprising you haven't seen a big increase in travel.
As has been discussed at length, you can't use heavily arched rear springs like OME rear and pull leaves until they sit flat because SPOA needs more spring rate than that.
do you have bumpstops yet? Properly positioned bumpstops will force the drooped wheel downwards and you will see a big increase in articulation.
Steve.
As has been discussed at length, you can't use heavily arched rear springs like OME rear and pull leaves until they sit flat because SPOA needs more spring rate than that.
do you have bumpstops yet? Properly positioned bumpstops will force the drooped wheel downwards and you will see a big increase in articulation.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
i havent done the bump stops yet. the springs are sitting flat so if i extend them to where they should be it will be a riding on them. i might extend them so there about 1 1/2 - 2inch of travle for me onroad
Last edited by brendan_h on Sat Aug 23, 2008 6:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
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brendan_h wrote:i though bending the springs backwards stuffes them? or is that only if you bend them back too much?
Bending them against the camber a bit is fine, most factory springs will do this. Bending them way past this is bad though. I have RUF SPOA, and run about 1.5 inches of uptravel. I have a good deal more flex than when i have standard springs. Just bump-stop it and it will get much better. Depending on what tyre you have, you only will have room for about 2 inches up unless you cut the guards up or fun a BL (BL and SPOA DONT MIX).
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Because that's the ONLY measurement that matters.
It doesn't matter how long your shocks are extended - if they're too long compressed you're going to break the shocks/mounts etc when you compress your suspension.
OK.
Measure the distance between your top and bottom mounts with the car sitting level.
subtract 1.5"
Subtract another 1" for safety
now you have the compressed length of the shock you have to choose.
If you want a shock that has more travel, you'll have to deal with the increased compressed length of the shock. Either have to raise the upper mount, lower the lower mount, or increase the length of the bumpstop.
You might be able to lower your top shock mounts, but be careful to allow enough compression. Shocks bottoming is uncool.
Steve.
It doesn't matter how long your shocks are extended - if they're too long compressed you're going to break the shocks/mounts etc when you compress your suspension.
OK.
Measure the distance between your top and bottom mounts with the car sitting level.
subtract 1.5"
Subtract another 1" for safety
now you have the compressed length of the shock you have to choose.
If you want a shock that has more travel, you'll have to deal with the increased compressed length of the shock. Either have to raise the upper mount, lower the lower mount, or increase the length of the bumpstop.
You might be able to lower your top shock mounts, but be careful to allow enough compression. Shocks bottoming is uncool.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Gwagensteve wrote: Measure the distance between your top and bottom mounts with the car sitting level.
subtract 1.5"
Subtract another 1" for safety
now you have the compressed length of the shock you have to choose.
If you want a shock that has more travel, you'll have to deal with the increased compressed length of the shock. Either have to raise the upper mount, lower the lower mount, or increase the length of the bumpstop.
You might be able to lower your top shock mounts, but be careful to allow enough compression. Shocks bottoming is uncool.
Steve.
so with the car sittin in the drive way measure the lenght? am i subtracting the 1.5inch because of my bump stops aloing 1.5inch up travel?
and if the shocks doent have enough droop i have to play around with the mountings?
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
You're subtracting 1.5" because that's how much daylight you have between the axle and the bumpstop, then your subtracting another 1" for safety.
That's the [i[longest[/i] your shock can be compressed.
You can play with the mountings, but you don't know yet if you have to. Take the measurement, then flex the car up without shocks on it and check how long the shock needs to be fully extended.
If your compressed length is long enough to allow for enough travel to give you good flex, then you don't need to move anything.
If not, then you will need to raise your upper mount (or lower the bottom mount, or lower the bumstops more)
Steve.
That's the [i[longest[/i] your shock can be compressed.
You can play with the mountings, but you don't know yet if you have to. Take the measurement, then flex the car up without shocks on it and check how long the shock needs to be fully extended.
If your compressed length is long enough to allow for enough travel to give you good flex, then you don't need to move anything.
If not, then you will need to raise your upper mount (or lower the bottom mount, or lower the bumstops more)
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
)
I've had to repair a rear crossmember broken due a car setup with incorrect shock length and it's a massive PITA.
Steve.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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alright finaly got a chance to go out and ramp it up.
first thing is my steering rod is limiting more droop by how much im not shure but my (1.5inch) extened shackles wasnt completle vertical.
the shocks.. so far.. need to be 1inch longer so all ive gained so far is 1inch extra droop. now i didnt extened the bump stops which would have limited more travle.
the point for me for doing ruf was to wait more flex the way i see it i think ive acelly lost some due to the bump stops. how nessesarly are the bump stops?
what also could be limiting flex is the spring retainers? ive taken the front set of retainers off because they where going to hit my steering links should i take the back set off? (front springs retainer in the front rear)
thanks
first thing is my steering rod is limiting more droop by how much im not shure but my (1.5inch) extened shackles wasnt completle vertical.
the shocks.. so far.. need to be 1inch longer so all ive gained so far is 1inch extra droop. now i didnt extened the bump stops which would have limited more travle.
the point for me for doing ruf was to wait more flex the way i see it i think ive acelly lost some due to the bump stops. how nessesarly are the bump stops?
what also could be limiting flex is the spring retainers? ive taken the front set of retainers off because they where going to hit my steering links should i take the back set off? (front springs retainer in the front rear)
thanks
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
i redrilled the diff perches. my links hit becaue of the way the steering is set up but i think i can change it easy enough. only hits when droopingzook4fun wrote:how have you moved the diff to stop the steering links from hitting? have you put longer brake lines in it yet?
brake lines are long enough.
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
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