What's your dream Zook build?

[Moph]

Interested to know what some of the experienced guys in here would put together as your 'dream' build in terms of drivetrain / suspension, and what focus you'd put on it (DD / rock / sand / etc). In other words, if you were building up an engineerable Zook from stock on a reasonable budget, what would you do?

If we get enough 'builds' in here it might help some newbies to work out what mods suit their driving style and pockets.

Eg for me (not an experienced Zooker unfortunately!) I'm looking for a simple, reliable daily driver that's pretty capable but doesn't break stuff often, so I'm heading towards:

31x10.5's on 15x7's
2" BL + 2" OME springs to clear 31's
4.9 transfer gears
Lockrights front & rear

Mods cost - around $3.5k (doing most of the work myself). No welding required and should be relatively easy to get engineered.

[want33s]

............... if you were building up an engineerable Zook from stock on a reasonable budget, what would you do?

In which state.
If in QLD you could fit lockrights and gears and forget about anything else.


Jas.

[mick85]

... A Patrol

[Gwagensteve]

I respect your thread Moph but what's engineerable is very up to how laterally you want to think, so lots of things are possible if you want to try.

Just my 2C.

I think the best possible case for tyre size would be 34" though, (and that would be with patrol/cruiser axles/hubs/bearings/something, but I'm keen to know what size tyre an engineer would sign off on F450 Unit bearings on Spider 9's.....

Steve.

[joeblow]

enough blah blah blah....lets get on with it......here's my 10c

maybe something a little similar to what i have now, lwb and coils etc, but with an h20 v6, auto and maybe a vit ute body that hasn't just been cut with a 9 inch and plated. and 33's are plenty for me. i'm currently building an lj80 2wd rod with an h25v6 and 5 speed manual, independant front and coil rear, and the engineer WANTS me to do a chop top!....interested to hear what others want to do....

[Moph]

meh no worries, the thread was worth a try

Ah joe - just saw your thread - nice. There's so much accumulated Zook experience out there but often it gets lost in the nitty gritty detail threads. Somewhere in every experienced Zook builder's head there must be an 'ideal' car which they would love to build for a certain set of conditions.

[joeblow]

no probs, if ya want go to the members section and have a look at the thread 'just a rocky' and you will see what can be done legally if done right and nice. the bloke who's truck it is has been planning it for 6 years and building it for 3. might give you some inspiration and gonna make mine look stock!

[ofr57]

this would be the one of the neatest engineered zooks i know of ... i think muz got it right

loose the exo put an internal in change the tyres and away i go
dam i wish i didnt start uni this year

[St Jimmy]

enough blah blah blah....lets get on with it......here's my 10c

maybe something a little similar to what i have now, lwb and coils etc, but with an h20 v6, auto and maybe a vit ute body that hasn't just been cut with a 9 inch and plated. and 33's are plenty for me. i'm currently building an lj80 2wd rod with an h25v6 and 5 speed manual, independant front and coil rear, and the engineer WANTS me to do a chop top!....interested to hear what others want to do....

PLEASE POST PICTURES
OF THE ROD
regards
james

[Gwagensteve]

I'll give you an ideas of a couple of builds we've got on the go in the Vic club atm that still stay pretty close a the suzuki format (i.e they're not a hilux with a suzuki cab on it)
These cars are engineered but obviously are built to run more tyre than the engineer will cert.

These are pretty close to the most capable format for a sierra I can think of for our use here in victoria, and the way we like to drive stuff.

83 LWB 1.0 trayback
1.6 hybrid jimny/baleno motor
AW4 auto
6.5 transfer case
5.12 diff gears
2" over stock length leaves with no lift, RUF SPUA
power steer
N76 shocks
70litre LWB vitara tank
Bobbed, dovetailed steel tube based tray with cycle guards and narrowed nose
Cut to run Q78 swampers
Full floating rear vitara based diff with airlocker, discs and GV drive flanges
WT front diff with airlocker and doubletough CV's
No Body lift

That's basically 100hp, 100:1 1st + coverter, 100kph cruise easy, ability to run a 36" tyre and no lift. (seriously, it's 4.5" taller than a stock trayback with a 9" taller tyre on it)

another idea:

83 LWB 1.0 trayback ute
660cc K6A all alloy dohc motor, water to air intercooled stock computer and complete 660cc coil sierra loom including instruments
6.5 transfer
diffs as per the car above - 5.12's, airlockers, doubletoughs, rear full floater with discs.
no bobbing
no narrowing
alloy tray to chassis length.
7" wheelbase stretch with 10" over stock rear spring length, SPUA
RUF
N76 shocks
2" BL
Power steer
50L vitara fueltank
8000 highmount winch rear mounted winching either way
flat belly pan
rear mount battery

set up to run 31's legally on road, 34x9 swampers with GV rims and staun beadlocks offroad.

Are these "dream" builds? I dunno, I think they're going to do most things you could expect of a Sierra based car and I'd be happy to own either. Once you go to heavier, wider axles I think the car start to get a bulk and weight to them that makes them more like a hilux or something than a suzuki. Both these builds are trying to keep the light/low suzuki thing, but add stability, stregnth and travel.

Steve.

[Moph]

... something ...

Thanks Steve - that's great!

I'm only slightly green with jealousy over your first build ... sounds awesome! Any pics? I imagine a LOT of body work has gone into fitting 36's on the front without lift...

[jonno_racing]

i would have muz's zook..
straight up!!! proberbly change to lux diffs, and.. well thats it
i ShortyIQ love his zook wish it was mine!

[Moph]

Any Members page for muz?

[zookimal]

i would have muz's zook..
straight up!!! proberbly change to lux diffs, and.. well thats it
i ShortyIQ love his zook wish it was mine!

Why have lux diffs over the suzannas that are already under it?

I built what I originally thought was all I'd need (and for 2 years it was)
31s, locked F&R, 6.5s, RUF on 2in OMEs, virtual lift. Was a DD, drove well and was 90% as capable as I'd ever need.

Now chasing more tyre, more wheelbase, which ended up equalling less time or the road and more web-wheeling. Always the way.

[Dee]

Full bodied SWB
Turbo’d 1.6, 6.5 t/case, rear disconnect, air lockers HD axles f&r, power steer, lux/bundy diffs…
90” WB on hmm 34x10.5” or 35x12” LTB’s…
No body lift, 2-3” suspension with longer leafs, flat belly skid...
Custom wheel arches to rear, tube front clip built to accept stock grill, sheeted outside to look stock.
6pt cage & suspension seats, half doors for summer.

If I was to go a bit more crazy, (trailered/comp rig)
Still the above but with maybe a 4AGZE & manualised auto (possible?)
On linked 60’s diffs with 37” krawlers.. 95” WB, comp cuts to suit…

[DieselZook]

For a noob, I would suggest
Start with a stock sierra wide track 1.3 , if you can find a LWB all the better.
Then modify it in this order.
1. 4.16 transfer gears (sierra low range ratio is the worse thing about them I think)
2. 235/75R15 mud terrain tires
3. Rear Difflock (preferably ARB airlocker, but lockright will do)
4. Front difflock (ARB airlocker)
5. OME 1.5" susspension lift.

The modification should be road legal in all states WITHOUT engineering.
The vehcile should ride better onroad and be quite a capable all round offroader.

Just my 2c worth.

[Gwagensteve]

Any pics?

Nope. It's not my build and the owner hasn't let any photos out of it.

Same with the other build.

They are real though.

Dieselzook - you're spot on, although I'd add a 2" bl for 31's and not bother with a front locker until the owner new for sure they didn't want HD front axles.

Steve.

[Highway-Star]

I'm not the most "experienced Zooker", not by a long shot, but this is what I would have based on my own experiences. So people know where I'm coming from:
Currently Drive:

- '92 SJ70 SWB WT Sierra softop
- 4.9 Transfer gears
- 31x10.5R15 Simex MTs (Silverstone Ex's for offroad) on 15x7s
- 2" OME lifted springs with 20mm extended shackles, odd shockies.
- 50mm front bumpstops, 45mm rear bumpstops.
- front axle 17mm forward
- screw on rubber flares
- Custom front bar
- custom sliders
- towbar
- fibreglass 2 piece roof on quick releases
- very comfy bucket seats


If I was to build for daily driving I'd work with what I currently drive. I think a SWB is better for daily driving as I appreciate the incredible ability to place the car in the smallest of carparks. I know they are less comfortable due to pitching but that doesn't bother me. But I would add the following for "ultimate perfection" LOL:

- front and rear ARB airlockers with largish compressor and tank to also do tyres
- G16B 16 valve EFI motor
- custom rear bar
- internal beadlocks on the offroad only tyres
- rear discs, and upgraded front brakes to Vitara LWB 1.6 ones.



OK now for an offroad only, 2nd car type arrangement that would cost a bit of a silly amount:

- SJ51 LWB NT Sierra (full body not trayback)
- rear end bobbed a bit, sensible amount, not stupidly
- G16B 16 valve EFI Motor
- maybe a Vitara 4spd auto (I think I could be called an auto wanabe convert for offroading). I think a manual wiith torque convertor and clutch might be a bit too much considering the nightmares to get it working .
- Vitara transfer with reduction gears into Sierra transfer with 6.5 gears and twin sticks. (Duals).
- Rear disconnect
- Rear Axle: Sierra WT, 3.9 C&P, air locker, heavy duty shafts, disc brakes.
- Front Axle: Sierra WT, 3.9 C&P, air locker, heavy 26spline shafts, vented front brakes
- Similar suspension to what I have for my shorty, would consider doing a full RUF with chassis extensions etc for the frontend.
- 33x10.5x15 tyres on 15x7 with internal beadlocks (havn't tried every single tyre in the world, but for now I'd stick with the Silverstone Extreme's, happy with my 31's).
- Enough virtual lift and tubbing to fit the tyres with 2" bumpstop extensions all around
- Power steer
- Endless air on aircon compressor
- comfortable bucket seats
- customs front, rear bars and sliders
- front half fibreglass roof part only, keep the back open
- a weighted dummy to throw in the passenger seat for when I don't have a passenger.


I've ignored the statement about "engineerable" (as bumper stickers are illegal where I live), and the budget bit can be applied to an extent (mainly on my first vehicle) depending on the opinion of the reader. No two people are going to ever want the same thing, but anyway.

[Moph]

Mmmmm yeah I like where you're coming from, Highway-Star. That's around where I'm pitching my build.

I have to say I don't mind the factory seats in my hardtop though - the only criticism I have with them is that they're laid back too far. I'm going to pull my driver's seat out on the weekend and see if the seat back adjustment ratchet can be safely modified to give it one click more upright.

Not sure my love of good food would agree with bucket seats

[Highway-Star]

I have to say I don't mind the factory seats in my hardtop though - the only criticism I have with them is that they're laid back too far. I'm going to pull my driver's seat out on the weekend and see if the seat back adjustment ratchet can be safely modified to give it one click more upright.

I agree they lay way too far back. I still claim the best mod I've made to my car to date is the seats, they make it so much more drivable both on and offroad. Only criticism is that the high sides on mine make it a PITA to get in and out of now with the lift and 31s, as I'm a shorty.

[Gwagensteve]

Mmmmm yeah I like where you're coming from, Highway-Star. That's around where I'm pitching my build.

I have to say I don't mind the factory seats in my hardtop though - the only criticism I have with them is that they're laid back too far. I'm going to pull my driver's seat out on the weekend and see if the seat back adjustment ratchet can be safely modified to give it one click more upright.

Not sure my love of good food would agree with bucket seats

Ive tried Moph -It's not easy. I ended up fitting fixed back seats.

I even had a look recently to see that I hadn't missed something 10 years ago when I tried, and no, I still couldn't work out how to do it. The mechanism is pretty mich riveted/spotwelded together and it's not as easy as filing another notch or something.

I'm short and find the position a problem too.

PS try a steering wheel with more dish- any suzuki wheel will fit and the swift/baleno wheels have more dish on them that puts the wheel much closer to the driver for a better driving position even with the excessive layback on the seats.

I have a baleno wheel in mine (same as a 2.0, non airbagged vit) and I know of a couple of other options.

A cappucino wheel is perhaps the coolest stock sierra wheel but they wouldn't be easy to find.

Steve.

Steve.

[cj]

83 LWB 1.0 trayback ute
660cc K6A all alloy dohc motor, water to air intercooled stock computer and complete 660cc coil sierra loom including instruments
6.5 transfer
diffs as per the car above - 5.12's, airlockers, doubletoughs, rear full floater with discs.
no bobbing
no narrowing
alloy tray to chassis length.
7" wheelbase stretch with 10" over stock rear spring length, SPUA
RUF
N76 shocks
2" BL
Power steer
50L vitara fueltank
8000 highmount winch rear mounted winching either way
flat belly pan
rear mount battery

set up to run 31's legally on road, 34x9 swampers with GV rims and staun beadlocks offroad.

I think with a rear disconnect, twinsticks and a liitle tweak of the engine that it might suit me

[grimbo]

I reckon my Sierra was pretty much my dream buildup plus reliability

[Gwagensteve]

I think with a rear disconnect, twinsticks and a liitle tweak of the engine that it might suit me

It f:bad-words:g better...

[ofr57]

Any Members page for muz?

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/sutra1180 ... t=#1180094

[greg]

Was the reasonable budget bit missed? or less important?

Mods cost - around $3.5k (doing most of the work myself). No welding required and should be relatively easy to get engineered.

Does everyone else on this forum work for Piranha offroad now?

I'm looking forward to reading about your $3.5k-no-weld builds in 4wd Action... should probably only take a few weeks to build right?


p.s. You could get central locking into a sierra for less than $3.5k

[Gwagensteve]

I reckon my Sierra was pretty much my dream buildup

Is that why you were always over it?

[Moph]

Was the reasonable budget bit missed? or less important?

Mods cost - around $3.5k (doing most of the work myself). No welding required and should be relatively easy to get engineered.

Does everyone else on this forum work for Piranha offroad now?

I'm looking forward to reading about your $3.5k-no-weld builds in 4wd Action... should probably only take a few weeks to build right?


p.s. You could get central locking into a sierra for less than $3.5k

I'm missing your point sorry Greg.

31x10.5's on 15x7's ..................................... allow $200 for rims, $1000 for tyres (sub total $1200)
2" BL + 2" OME springs to clear 31's ............ $200 BL, $150/corner for OME springs + shocks $50/corner (sub total $1000)
4.9 transfer gears ........................................ around $700 landed
Lockrights front & rear ................................. $450 landed from memory, $150 for local diff place to set up diffs if I pull them out for them

TOTAL - $3500

No welding required for any of that. Reason being I wouldn't trust my welds and don't own a welder. But I'll have a Zook that's far more capable than stock for not a whole lot of coin.

Even if you do RUF and flog second hand springs from elsewhere, you're still up for at least $2500 for new rims + tyres, lockers F&R and transfer gears.

[grimbo]

I think Greg is making the point that the other dream build suggested would easily break the $3.5k budget unless it was done with the miraculous budgetry skills of Pirannha and their buildup.

And he just loves central locking

[Moph]

Ah right Cheers for explaining. I've got a migraine and ain't thinking too clearly.

I love central locking too - put in central locking on an old Sigma years ago, had a magnetically latching security system and all Couldn't afford to buy a remote system for it. I had a small rare earth magnet on my keyring and a couple of magnetic reed switches hidden beneath the driver's window seal. Just wave the keys past one and it locked/armed, or the other one for unlock/disarm.

Was groovy until I got a wire caught in the heater switch one day and shorted a 12V feed to the body - whole thing went up in smoke!