Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

Rear Suspension Woe's

Tech Talk for Mitsubishi owners.

Moderator: -Scott-

Post Reply
Posts: 315
Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2004 6:53 am
Location: South Australia

Rear Suspension Woe's

Post by cookie monster »

Had the Tough Dog 2" lift 'comfort' spec coils fitted a couple of years back, along with their 41mm foam cell shocks.
Car rode nice and comfy with good flex at first, but since adding the rear drawer system and now the long range tank, it feel very spongy and soggy.
There seams to be reduced stability when changing direction quickly and increased vertical movement over say speed humps.
I pulled the springs out and replaced them with std GU Patrol rears (they both measure up about the same on wire dia, but Patrols are about 30mm longer), but all that has done is lift the rear a bit more and stopped the bottoming on the bump stops.
I checked the shocks at the same time and one was particularly easy to compress, with the other having a little bit more resistance but not much. Both shocks were very hard to extend.
The shocks are a push / pull type, so dont extend themselves once compressed, like a normal gas shock.

I think I may have 2 problems :
1. Springs are not rated highly enough for the extra weight that is now in the rear (rear axle weigh bridge weight is 1340 kg with 1/4 tank of juice. front axle 1030kg).

2. The shocks are knackered ??

The car is basicall 300kg heavier than std (2370 over 2 axles).

I may stick the original shocks back on and see how they ride, just for the comparison.

Any thoughts ?

cookie monster
99 GU Patrol Wagon 4.2td
Posts: 212
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 7:10 pm
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Post by HotAe92 »

Hi cookie,

I have just fitted a new set of 2" Lovell HD coils to the rear of mine. The only complaint I have so far is bottoming out over large bumps with a fully laden vehicle. I'm interested to hear what responses you get as I will probably have to correct this sooner or later.

Cheers,
Jayden
'04 NP DiD Pajero: 2" Lift, 33's, ARB Bar, XD9000 Winch, Rear ARB Locker, Snorkel, Dual Batts and Much More...
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2005 2:32 pm
Location: Gold Coast

Post by glenn_c »

Hi Cookie
I have GU springs (around 85mm of lift) and oztec shocks (lifetime warranty pulled the bottom out of one during a comp with rear sway bar removed and they replaced it not a problem) fitted to the back of mine, I also have the bump stop from inside the springs removed (had air bags once). My car weighs the same as yours and ride is not too bad for a raised 4wd. You could fit air bags to the rear springs to adjust the ride on the road and less air off road. I have EFS shocks in the front (ball joint flip and bars wound up to suit rear) and I am happy with them.
Regards Glenn
Pajero GLX 2.8td 255/85/16 BFG muds 265/75/16 BFG AT's, articulator, 2.5inch lift, ball joint flip, rear sway bar disconnect and lots of mods.
Posts: 234
Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:05 pm
Location: Melburn!

Post by Dexter »

glenn_c - Sorry for the off topic, but have you had any issues with your ball joint flip?
I am getting some pretty bad jarring over large bumps mainly to do with down travel. Can even get it over speed humps.
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2005 2:32 pm
Location: Gold Coast

Post by glenn_c »

I have been running with the ball joint flip for nearly two years.
I drilled them out to 10mm and use double nuts top one nylon.
Handling is great I have broken three left hand CV's during that time, one was my orginal (300,000klms) one was an after market (NEVER AGAIN SHATTERED AS SOON AS PLACED IN 4WD) and last one broke at the spine into the diff (not related to CV joint angle). Still have good done travel and heaps of up travel (see latest pics in pics of your rig p18)
Regards Glenn
Pajero GLX 2.8td 255/85/16 BFG muds 265/75/16 BFG AT's, articulator, 2.5inch lift, ball joint flip, rear sway bar disconnect and lots of mods.
Posts: 234
Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:05 pm
Location: Melburn!

Post by Dexter »

glenn_c wrote:I have been running with the ball joint flip for nearly two years.

Snip!
Thanks for that, I think you have sealed the deal for me, been reading up on it for awhile and everyone has mixed opinions, but for me its a non-daily driver and the lack of droop is causing me grief. Do you run a swaybar disconnect up front or any swaybar mods in the front?

Cookie monster - Have you had a look at you rear arms, mine are pretty flogged out and I believe that is causing my rolly polly behaviour. I also thing that the difference in travel between the front and the back cant be good for handling.
Posts: 1130
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 7:25 pm
Location: New Zealand

Post by NJV6 »

Dexter - just do the BJ flip! And get some shims for the top arm location. Make sure you check those bolts you udo to get those shims in regularily as they tend to come loose.

If it is just an offroad, leave ya swaybar off and drive slowly around the corners..... :D
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front & Rear ARB's, Safari Snorkel

2008-2009-2010-2011 Pavlova in the shed.
Posts: 234
Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:05 pm
Location: Melburn!

Post by Dexter »

NJV6 wrote:Dexter - just do the BJ flip! And get some shims for the top arm location. Make sure you check those bolts you udo to get those shims in regularily as they tend to come loose.

If it is just an offroad, leave ya swaybar off and drive slowly around the corners..... :D
Haha from what I have read removing the front swaybar shows you what roll really is.
Posts: 14209
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2004 11:36 am
Location: Adelaide

Post by -Scott- »

Dexter wrote: I also thing that the difference in travel between the front and the back cant be good for handling.
If your suspension is hitting its stops during cornering you have bigger problems to worry about than "handling." Unless you've massively modified your geometry, handling is about spring rates and shock absorber damping.

I have pretty good rear travel :) and bugger-all front :cry: When I had my Paj engineered the rear sway bar was sitting on the ground beside the race track (ready to be re-installed if there were handling problems.) The engineer was impressed with the handling - much better than he expected. That's with heavy duty OME springs in the rear, OME shocks all round and front droop stops trimmed by 10mm. (I also had alternative (thinner) droop stops ready to be installed if required - but they weren't needed.)

If mismatched front/rear travel was going to create handling problems, I would have had them.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest