if you redrilled you diff it shouldn't touch at all.
if you have std brake line they are about 3" to short and is what is wrong. they might not look tight but they will be. they are tight with just a 2" lift
put up a pic of the set up
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
just did ruf no gain in flex?
thats is exacely what im after. but wouldnt drilling it out and resleaving it weaken it? where can i get this donewant33s wrote:You could always have the taper in the arm reversed. IE:cut from the top and bushed so you can put the rod on top.
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
A) Do you know what highsteer that is? It doesn't look like snake Hi-Steer and looks like it only bolts to the kingpin bolts - *scary*
B) That contact is going to get worse with droop.
C) Those perches are kinda high but not a real problem. IMHO
E) The springs look fine, but I am sure they are quite flat even at free camber limiting droop. (although I'd be happier with a full length secondary - Id be concerned about bending at the shackle.
F) I'd reverse the way your bumpstops are placed. Having the rubber on the chassis and the axle clear will assist in leverage - the axle will pivot on the stop not the stop pivoting around the chassis. This will help your flex. At the moment, as you flex, the stops will also be hooking around the side of the chassis a bit (I can see the clean mark) and this will basically be locking the suspension up a bit.
G) Your shocks look kinda short. You could mount the shock behind and below the axle and get a 4" or more longer shock in there, easy.
H) That bottom shock mount in single shear is bootyfab.
I) you have a broken rubber seal on your brake caliper. Keep an eye on this - see the brake thread from the last few days.
J) Your shackle angle is cool (really)
Please don't think I'm being negative, I'm trying to be constructive. Others with more SPOA experience might have more to add or differ.
Steve.
B) That contact is going to get worse with droop.
C) Those perches are kinda high but not a real problem. IMHO
E) The springs look fine, but I am sure they are quite flat even at free camber limiting droop. (although I'd be happier with a full length secondary - Id be concerned about bending at the shackle.
F) I'd reverse the way your bumpstops are placed. Having the rubber on the chassis and the axle clear will assist in leverage - the axle will pivot on the stop not the stop pivoting around the chassis. This will help your flex. At the moment, as you flex, the stops will also be hooking around the side of the chassis a bit (I can see the clean mark) and this will basically be locking the suspension up a bit.
G) Your shocks look kinda short. You could mount the shock behind and below the axle and get a 4" or more longer shock in there, easy.
H) That bottom shock mount in single shear is bootyfab.
I) you have a broken rubber seal on your brake caliper. Keep an eye on this - see the brake thread from the last few days.
J) Your shackle angle is cool (really)
Please don't think I'm being negative, I'm trying to be constructive. Others with more SPOA experience might have more to add or differ.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
yes thats for your input. how much of a difference will moving the rubber bumpstop on top of the chassie?
brake are fine all the oil marks are prob form wd40 ect
shock mounts and springs im not to shure what your saying
im not shure what steering arm it is. but where can i get the taper reversed?>
haha the pop river was al i had
brake are fine all the oil marks are prob form wd40 ect
shock mounts and springs im not to shure what your saying
im not shure what steering arm it is. but where can i get the taper reversed?>
haha the pop river was al i had
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
I think there'll be a fair amount of added flex. Can't tell you how much and I do know your springs aren't helping, but that's part of the problem of SPOA - you need flat springs.
I'm sure the brakes are fine - now, but be careful once you've had the, in mud.
Shock mounts - by lowering the bottom shock mount you can fit a longer shock without having to raise the top mount. It's not normal to mount a shock on one tab only. Normally, the shock mount should have a tab on both sides of the shock going down to the axle. This makes the mount much stronger and is how most shocks are mounted.
Springs - There's only one leaf running the last couple of inches from the shackle towards the axle. It's better to have 2 leaves in this spot -known as a "full length secondary"- have a look at the the Bonz-eye springs again to see a spring with lots more strength. HD OME rears have a full length secondary. You could use that leaf and probably drop the short, stiff leaf at the bottom of your pack. ( just maybe) but it's going to be an experiment.
Yes, you can get the taper reversed, but how easy this is depends on the angle of the taper. Some tapers are very common, but toyota (and I think suzuki) use a custom taper that's hard to find. If someone has the tool it's easy, but a custom tool is about $400 to make. It's still a machine shop job - there's some $$ in it.
Go to a autobarn or something - split pins are so cheap there's no reason to use rivets on the road. I bought about 6 packets last time I wanted one.
Steve.
I'm sure the brakes are fine - now, but be careful once you've had the, in mud.
Shock mounts - by lowering the bottom shock mount you can fit a longer shock without having to raise the top mount. It's not normal to mount a shock on one tab only. Normally, the shock mount should have a tab on both sides of the shock going down to the axle. This makes the mount much stronger and is how most shocks are mounted.
Springs - There's only one leaf running the last couple of inches from the shackle towards the axle. It's better to have 2 leaves in this spot -known as a "full length secondary"- have a look at the the Bonz-eye springs again to see a spring with lots more strength. HD OME rears have a full length secondary. You could use that leaf and probably drop the short, stiff leaf at the bottom of your pack. ( just maybe) but it's going to be an experiment.
Yes, you can get the taper reversed, but how easy this is depends on the angle of the taper. Some tapers are very common, but toyota (and I think suzuki) use a custom taper that's hard to find. If someone has the tool it's easy, but a custom tool is about $400 to make. It's still a machine shop job - there's some $$ in it.
Go to a autobarn or something - split pins are so cheap there's no reason to use rivets on the road. I bought about 6 packets last time I wanted one.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
so to get the taper reversed needs to me a machine shop job? dont supose a brake,steering suspension shop would be able to do it?
are you able to tell me why my springs arnt helpin with flex?
the big stiff main at the bottom is holding all the weight of winch and bar.
so with the shock mounts, when i finaly get all suspension sorted, put the mount onto the back of the diff? like basicly a spring perch rotated 90* it a bolt in it in basic terms?
are you able to tell me why my springs arnt helpin with flex?
the big stiff main at the bottom is holding all the weight of winch and bar.
so with the shock mounts, when i finaly get all suspension sorted, put the mount onto the back of the diff? like basicly a spring perch rotated 90* it a bolt in it in basic terms?
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
Correct, It's a machine shop job. Basically a sleeve has to be pressed in to the existing taper then the taper machined the other way.brendan_h wrote:so to get the taper reversed needs to me a machine shop job? dont supose a brake,steering suspension shop would be able to do it?
are you able to tell me why my springs arnt helpin with flex?
the big stiff main at the bottom is holding all the weight of winch and bar.
so with the shock mounts, when i finaly get all suspension sorted, put the mount onto the back of the diff? like basicly a spring perch rotated 90* it a bolt in it in basic terms?
I vote it would be 1/2 the cost (at least) of a snake hi-steer arm and you'll still have an arm that's inadequately mounted.
Your springs aren't helping with flex because if as you said they are stock sierra rears, they are already very flat. to make the droop you need to arch them and they don't want to do it - and your axles etc aren't heavy enough to force them. You will get some of this flex by levering it from the bumpstop, but eventually, you will be fighting the springs.
Unfortunately though, if you start with an arched spring but want the spring to sit flat at ride height the spring won't have enough rate to hold the car up.
you'll just have to experiment with different leaf configurations to see what works.
If you have a winch/bar etc and therefore a heavy front end, keep that heavy leaf and run an OME HD main leaf and secondary, and maybe the third leaf and 4th leaf from your existing pack.
It's going to be trial and error though. This might give you more droop and enough rate to hold the ride height.
You can't use a full OME pack (as discussed on PM) as you'll have too much height.
Get he bumpstops and steering right to start with. Flex is overrated.
Buying cars already built by someone else is never easy....
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
as much as i would love the snake racing one. i ust cant offord 950bucks. i know you cant put a price on saftly ect
Last edited by brendan_h on Fri Aug 29, 2008 8:54 pm, edited 3 times in total.
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
I understand but there's a hub rebuild kit and new tie rod/drag link in that kit too. The knuckle is less than 1/2 of the total kit cost.
It's pretty cheap for what it is.
Steve.
It's pretty cheap for what it is.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
wouldnt adding an OME 2nd, 3rd leaf make it more stiffer. but it will add more droop because there a lifed spring and want to push down more?
so your saying add a ome 2nd and 3rd leaf and dont take any out? or are you saing run an ome 2nd and 3rd leaf and keep the main and big stiff spring
i want to get my steering righ first because thats whats limting flex.
yes i know its a rebuild kit but i only just repbiut the knuckles a few months ago. can you buy just the knuckle on its own?
so your saying add a ome 2nd and 3rd leaf and dont take any out? or are you saing run an ome 2nd and 3rd leaf and keep the main and big stiff spring
i want to get my steering righ first because thats whats limting flex.
yes i know its a rebuild kit but i only just repbiut the knuckles a few months ago. can you buy just the knuckle on its own?
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
Ok, I am skilled in Paint
I have drawn up a technical drawing of what maybe brendan wants??
Any suggestions appreciated, I am worried about having no enough meat in the steer arm to be able to make enough meat in the bush so its safe
Also would the thread in the swivel be long enough for an extra washer to keep things intact? It will hopefully be pressed in..
I have drawn up a technical drawing of what maybe brendan wants??
Any suggestions appreciated, I am worried about having no enough meat in the steer arm to be able to make enough meat in the bush so its safe
Also would the thread in the swivel be long enough for an extra washer to keep things intact? It will hopefully be pressed in..
I am Tim
My idea:
OME main leaf, OME HD full length secondary leaf, OME 3rd leaf, your flat 4th leaf.
That's it. The spring should sit flat when loaded.
If it's too high, try swapping the third leaf for you existing 3rd leaf.
I'm trying to give you more free arch with a lower rate but let the OME springs flatten out onto your existing big heavy flat overload (4th) leaf.
OME leaves have a pretty low rate. (they're soft) I've set up a SPUA car with a winch in the front and 3 OME leaves and the front was way too soft. It would be way way way too soft for a SPOA car.
Like I said though, It's an experiment.
Steve.
OME main leaf, OME HD full length secondary leaf, OME 3rd leaf, your flat 4th leaf.
That's it. The spring should sit flat when loaded.
If it's too high, try swapping the third leaf for you existing 3rd leaf.
I'm trying to give you more free arch with a lower rate but let the OME springs flatten out onto your existing big heavy flat overload (4th) leaf.
OME leaves have a pretty low rate. (they're soft) I've set up a SPUA car with a winch in the front and 3 OME leaves and the front was way too soft. It would be way way way too soft for a SPOA car.
Like I said though, It's an experiment.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Thats kinda what he needs but that's precision work. It needs to go to a machine shop skilled in this kind of work.BlueSuzy wrote:
steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
He asked me, i drew his/our replys interpretation....
I can do it.
Small job, Just need to see if i have the tools for the small taper..
I can do it.
Small job, Just need to see if i have the tools for the small taper..
Last edited by BlueSuzy on Fri Aug 29, 2008 9:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I am Tim
i can get a set of king springs cheap. would that be alright to use? or you still recon ome?Gwagensteve wrote:My idea:
OME main leaf, OME HD full length secondary leaf, OME 3rd leaf, your flat 4th leaf.
That's it. The spring should sit flat when loaded.
If it's too high, try swapping the third leaf for you existing 3rd leaf.
I'm trying to give you more free arch with a lower rate but let the OME springs flatten out onto your existing big heavy flat overload (4th) leaf.
OME leaves have a pretty low rate. (they're soft) I've set up a SPUA car with a winch in the front and 3 OME leaves and the front was way too soft. It would be way way way too soft for a SPOA car.
Like I said though, It's an experiment.
Steve.
so basicly what im doing is running 3 lifted springs and my overload?
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
King springs are too stiff AFAIK.
OME are the softest and most progessive. King have the most lift and stiffest.
Remember you need to get the springs to flatten out and sit on that flat overload.
You'll be an expert at swapping springs by the end of this process. I can swap my rears in about 45 minutes (that's including breaking the packs apart and swapping individual leaves)
Steve.
OME are the softest and most progessive. King have the most lift and stiffest.
Remember you need to get the springs to flatten out and sit on that flat overload.
You'll be an expert at swapping springs by the end of this process. I can swap my rears in about 45 minutes (that's including breaking the packs apart and swapping individual leaves)
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
so basicly what your trying to achive or me whatever is.
lifted spring will make more droop? but a full pack of lifted srings will acelly lift my car. so you want the enough lifted springs in it so they sit level ono the load leaf
onto the steering wil that pic be alright to do?
lifted spring will make more droop? but a full pack of lifted srings will acelly lift my car. so you want the enough lifted springs in it so they sit level ono the load leaf
onto the steering wil that pic be alright to do?
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
sorry to hijack (really, i seem to be doing this alot lately)
coming back to the steering-arm drill & tapered from the other side, could this be done on the stock tie rod, (spua) to get the drag link relocated to the back-side rather than the front, preventing the two links from fouling each other when the diff has been moved foward?
coming back to the steering-arm drill & tapered from the other side, could this be done on the stock tie rod, (spua) to get the drag link relocated to the back-side rather than the front, preventing the two links from fouling each other when the diff has been moved foward?
All the gear, No idea...
im goign to ring ARB today get a price on a set of OME springs. just he medium/light duty?
going to be swaping the bumps stops rubber to the top. as well ill let you know how it all goes
i can get my steering arm retaperd do you think i should give it a shot?
going to be swaping the bumps stops rubber to the top. as well ill let you know how it all goes
i can get my steering arm retaperd do you think i should give it a shot?
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
flip my bump stops. im not exacelly shure if fliping them gave me more flex then how it was befor but im alot happyer with the flex i have gained so far.
shocks and brake lines are limmting flex. once steering is sorted then ill get new shocks, brake lines.
Shackle angle with shock on
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/bre ... 008073.jpg
shock taken off
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/bre ... 008078.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/bre ... 008079.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/bre ... 008080.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/bre ... 008075.jpg
shocks and brake lines are limmting flex. once steering is sorted then ill get new shocks, brake lines.
Shackle angle with shock on
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/bre ... 008073.jpg
shock taken off
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/bre ... 008078.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/bre ... 008079.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/bre ... 008080.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/bre ... 008075.jpg
91 SWB Sierra. 16v 1.6efi, extractors, 6.1gears, SPOA, 32 BF muddys and 2inch bodylift
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests