spring reversal mq

Post by **stokedapollo** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 2:01 pm

im looking at info on rear spring reversal on mq swb
but cant seem to find anything
any help be good
main thing i wana know is about the fuel tank where to put it etc

Post by **tna racing** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 2:38 pm

just do it allready

Post by **stokedapollo** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:19 pm

lol bite me tna
i would do it already if i knew where to put the fuel tank lol
everythin else is a peice of pi$$

Post by **tna racing** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:29 pm

Lets have a look at it then

Post by **badger** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:31 pm

have a look at zer0 s blue balls build, we moved his tank up into the back of the cab n boxed it in

Post by **stokedapollo** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 11:38 pm

how do i find that build up

Post by **tna racing** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 11:44 pm

Search lil nutz
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic744 ... highlight=

Post by **q_ship** » Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:14 pm

pity he had to sell it though

does he still have many parts left?

Post by **zer0** » Thu Aug 28, 2008 5:22 pm

yeah mate a few parts left 6 front diffs, 1 rear diff, 3 x 35 inch spares, sd33 with gearbox n transfer 2 front guards, 1 4 speed box w transfer, drive shafts, and a few other odd pieces laying about....

if you ever want ne thing make a offer

and stoked as for the reversal it is preety straight forward especially if you are cutting it into a ute...
as for the fuel tank i found that whilst it can still sit in the same spot it may get damaged by the top of the bell housing of your rear diff when flexed up so you have a few options of either moving it forward over the top where your diff used to be or as i did because of keeping my full shorty body make a false floor that is the height of your wheel tubs weld it closed n bolt the fuel tank into that

ne more questions ask away
Heath
--Zer0--

Post by **stokedapollo** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 12:42 am

if i move it forward will the drive shaft hit at all
i dont really want to put in the back as im want to keep rear seat etc
was also thinkin of making the opening for the gaurds look like factory instead of the reall big gap from front to back like you see alot
just a thought as im pretty good on the old welder lol
any major issues i need to know or pretty straight forward so to speak
i also supose i coulkd get custom tank made with a recess foir the diff housing

Post by **tna racing** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:01 am

as i said on msn, don't stress to much about arches, they can be done easy, like trailer guards

as for clearance. Mose well body lift it 1st. that way we can make brackets to lift the tank higher

Post by **zer0** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 5:03 am

no from what i rememeber the drive shaft wont hit it at all though keeping in mind you will not want to go any lower than wat the tank already sits at but with a body lift its easy enough to do u will just have to make up some mounts ... as for how i did the guards i will post some pics as my build lost alot of the pics out of it ...

to fill the gap in i sacraficed 2 front doors

where i moved the fuel filler to

to keep the wheel well looking legal ish i sacraficed another mq and cut the wheel wells out of it

and then

Heath
--Zer0--

Post by **stokedapollo** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 11:22 am

cool ty for that
did you have to relocate fuel filler
it seems a very easy thing to do the spring reversal
and as i said metal work is my forte lol
any other tips or tricks be good

Post by **zer0** » Fri Aug 29, 2008 6:48 pm

yeah i had to reloacate the fuel filler up higher cause when u cut back u end up where the filler is ... as for tips and tricks not too many i can think the only one i can think of atm is when u mount the diff back to the springs the plates that the u bolts go through swap them over and make it so the pin hole is towards the front instead of the rear like mq's are originally ...this should allow for almost perfect alignment for the shocks

Heath

Post by **stokedapollo** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 12:10 am

cool ty for the tip
how did ya go bout redoin the filler
??

Post by **zer0** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:18 am

i cut the fuel filler out of the body so u may need to plate the hole that is there there will be a gap when u cut backwards ...

the fuel filler itself i put a cut in the top and both sides so that i could bend the actually filler down on a greater angle then plated the inside.

then cut it into the body and using the original filler neck i you should be able to create something like this the only prob i had with this was that i put it in the originaly position only up higher u actually need to bring it towards the front of your truck otherwise the filler pipes will hit your tyre upon flex

Heath
--Zer0--

Post by **RMP&O** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 11:58 am

cool stuff Zero...to bad you had to sell the truck. It was looking pretty mean at the end there.

I like how you worked the old door to fix the wheel well.

My rear diff on my 83 MQ has been moved back alot and I have a fair share of rear body missing! Have not yet patched it up. But plan to extend wheel arches as you have done to give it that "stock" look even with extended wheelbase. Also going to have to move fuel filler as mine currently just fills at tank in rear bed. Was thinking just leave in bed but hate pulling tire carrier open and lifting the rear glass to fill the truck. Don't know how mine will all turn out in the end, still a ways from doing up the body.

Post by **zer0** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 12:08 pm

thanks RMP&O looked at yours and it is wickid these days wish i had of had the money and access to some other stuff other wise i wouldnt not have wreaked the project ... oneday ill build another one ... the other thought i had for mine was to not keep it so legal and end up dovetail/bob tail the rear i think that would look cool but never really got around to it.. but you would prolly have to do the front as well to make it look decent..

and i mainly used the old doors cause they were laying around but also i found it to hard to get the body line to stay the same so i thought this was the easiest option all i did was hammer in the original pannel on the truck then screw the door to the truck then weld it on ... then bog

as for fuel fillers i went through a hole lot of ideas that was the only 1 i thought worked best for my application ... other options were making a bracket that holdes the filler neck ....and mounting it the same height at the top of the tailgate either bolting or welding it to the inside of the car as close to the tailgate so u just have to lift the hose up and down in

Heath
--Zer0--

Post by **Patchy** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 2:01 pm

heath do you think you would have many dramas with hitting the fuel tank with soa? from the looks yours is sua.

Post by **zer0** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 11:13 am

with a SPOA i very much doubt u would hit your tank at all ehe and in the spoa your bumpstops would stop it before the tank ne way

Heath

Post by **stokedapollo** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 12:05 pm

now i just gotta find the time and $$$ to do it

Post by **zer0** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 4:44 pm

time is easy its $$ that not

Post by **stokedapollo** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 4:56 pm

thats it dosnt look like its a hard job to do so is all good
it makes it drive better on road dosnt it
less bounce??
oh and also your sayin i could leave tank where it is yeah
especially if im doin body lift??

Post by **zer0** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:37 pm

yeah if you do a body lift lift your tank up and reloacte ur bump stops you shouldnt have an issue as for driving on road it cuts out alot of that bucking forward backward movement that shorties get

Post by **stokedapollo** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 9:03 am

awesome looks like i will be doin it soon lol

Post by **stokedapollo** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 2:37 pm

hey zero how far back do you cut guards etc
and also i think i will have prob with tank was in bush today sittin on uneven ground and top of diff centre was pushed up higher than bottom of tank
so might relocate it forward where diff used to sit and move it up alittle too

Post by **zer0** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:53 pm

i could not tell u exactly how far back i cut to be honest ummm but i know that when u spin the leaf around the wheel base ends up being around 98-100" from center to center and yeah that probably would be wise to move it then

Heath
--Zer0--

Post by **stokedapollo** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 6:15 pm

hmmm ok so how would i go about making sure its right and far enough back

Post by **zer0** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 5:02 am

from memory i found aprox center of the front guard then measured back 100" ...
then marking the center point of the original rear measured back to the 100" mark...
after gettin that measurement i made more markes on the original rear following the curve backwards and down ..
and using the measurement between original center and new center i measure off those marks to get a near original arch for the rear then the fun bit cutting all that metal out of the way...

after that i would stop doin body pannel work till i got atleast the leaves swapped around and the diff moved backwards to i know that the arch was gonna be right ... i had it a lil easier i guess cause i didnt care how big my area was cause i was gonna be fitting big tyres

hope that helps a lil

Post by **stokedapollo** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 11:29 am

yes helps heaps thanks zer0
one other thing is today i was changing tyre and noticed the tank is bolted underneath frame work on chassis with 50 mm lift would it fit if i put it on top of the frame
and also if i move tank forward what do i do about my exhaust lol
i could get custom tank made to fit in and up somewhere if need but prefer not to lol
cheers

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spring reversal mq

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