i have a 92 GQ which had a 4" king spring lift with castor plates no wobbles i then put in a gu front diff without the castor plates no wobbles . then due to extra weight i replaced my 4" kings with heavy duty 5" efs springs to level the car up and ended up with heaps of turn in when cournering , so to combat this i put the castor plates back in and it courners heaps better but i have death wobbles from 55km/ph and it has me stuffed because when the truck was at the same height with the GQ front all was good
any help would be appriciated as yesterday before putting the plates in no wobbles now today i hate to say it but i was scared
Brad
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WHY?
death wobbles is a common problem associated with having the wrong caster angle.. I would suggest either replacing the castor plates with 5 inch ones or getting some 5 inch drop boxes.
01 td42 GU patrol ute, with extra bits and pieces.
[quote="Bluefreak"][quote="ofr57"]flex is over rated :finger:[/quote]
You drive an IFS too, huh...???
:D[/quote]
[quote="Bluefreak"][quote="ofr57"]flex is over rated :finger:[/quote]
You drive an IFS too, huh...???
:D[/quote]
what has happened is you've moved the suspension so very slightly into a position where what is worn out can now move in a way which causes the wobbles.
do you have standard radius arms? You need to look at improving castor angle significantly to get it to drive safely - THEN you need to address what is worn and causing your wobbles. Either drop arms or drop boxes are the solutions here. Dropboxes being your cheapest and best bet for driveability but anyway...
Once you've got the suspension geometry back into spec, I'd go about replacing your panhard rod bushings and ball joints in the steering gear. My first suggestion is you have found some worn spots within the balls which you previously weren't using with the lower suspension height. Same with the bushings, but they're mainly just a cheap replacement in comparison to other things and do tend to get flogged out quite quickly depending on use.
Once you've eliminated the obvious or determined its not the issue you should move onto adjusting bearing tolerances and kingpin shims on the axle housing. I say this because axle housing related issues (in my eyes) would happen regardless of your castor angle/suspension lift.
goodluck with it and don't die eh
do you have standard radius arms? You need to look at improving castor angle significantly to get it to drive safely - THEN you need to address what is worn and causing your wobbles. Either drop arms or drop boxes are the solutions here. Dropboxes being your cheapest and best bet for driveability but anyway...
Once you've got the suspension geometry back into spec, I'd go about replacing your panhard rod bushings and ball joints in the steering gear. My first suggestion is you have found some worn spots within the balls which you previously weren't using with the lower suspension height. Same with the bushings, but they're mainly just a cheap replacement in comparison to other things and do tend to get flogged out quite quickly depending on use.
Once you've eliminated the obvious or determined its not the issue you should move onto adjusting bearing tolerances and kingpin shims on the axle housing. I say this because axle housing related issues (in my eyes) would happen regardless of your castor angle/suspension lift.
goodluck with it and don't die eh
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