which engine? has to be auto

Post by **ZOOK60** » Mon Jan 05, 2004 9:55 pm

ive got a 92 sierra and i want to go to an auto. I wanted to know if anyone knows about emisions laws . Aparently you have to put the same year model or later to comply for an engineers cirtificate. What are some opions for a different motor kepping in mind i want an auto? I was maybee thinking of putting the sierra pollusion gear on a earler motor maybe a blue bird or something?

PS please dont get on the 1.6 bagwagon unless i can use the standard sierra transfer

Post by **Beastmavster** » Mon Jan 05, 2004 11:34 pm

jake lawson wrote:ive got a 92 sierra and i want to go to an auto. I wanted to know if anyone knows about emisions laws . Aparently you have to put the same year model or later to comply for an engineers cirtificate. What are some opions for a different motor kepping in mind i want an auto? I was maybee thinking of putting the sierra pollusion gear on a earler motor maybe a blue bird or something?

PS please dont get on the 1.6 bagwagon unless i can use the standard sierra transfer

How about Nissan 3 litre V6?

Post by **oozuk** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 12:34 am

use an auto out of an jap import suzuki Jimni automatic 1.3L

Post by **Gonzo** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 12:48 am

3.8L commo motor with a turbo 700

Post by **bigsteve** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 6:58 am

SR20 with auto, its currently being done to a LWB in our club.

Steve

Post by **christover1** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 10:21 am

sr20 wid auto

Post by **oozuk** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 11:25 am

with the sr20 auto what needed to be done to make fit besides mounts ??
didi the transfer need to be moved ??? did it fit in the trans tunnell ??

Post by **bigsteve** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 11:49 am

oozuk wrote:with the sr20 auto what needed to be done to make fit besides mounts ??
didi the transfer need to be moved ??? did it fit in the trans tunnell ??

I think everything had to be moved back, bigger tunnel e.t.c. also.

Its in a LWB so he has got space to play with.

Post by **christover1** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 1:13 pm

oozuk wrote:with the sr20 auto what needed to be done to make fit besides mounts ??
didi the transfer need to be moved ??? did it fit in the trans tunnell ??

bigsteve is correct, lots of work, but sr20de engines are cheap n powerful and reliable...anything easy to fit, will cost more to buy, law of supply and demand, with murphy's law thrown in to

Post by **Damo** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 1:37 pm

christover1 wrote:
oozuk wrote:with the sr20 auto what needed to be done to make fit besides mounts ??
didi the transfer need to be moved ??? did it fit in the trans tunnell ??

bigsteve is correct, lots of work, but sr20de engines are cheap n powerful and reliable...anything easy to fit, will cost more to buy, law of supply and demand, with murphy's law thrown in to

Aint that the truth :lol:

good one Christover

Post by **Gutless** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 2:23 pm

If you are going to the trouble of fitting the sr20, why not just fit the commy V6 and auto. A new tunnel is required, and I believe the negine is slightly shrter than the inline4 sr20?? Could be wrong. I will be posting picks of this conversion over the next 3 months as I am doing it to my LWB now.

BTW, the commy V6 and auto are 1350 long. Replace the extension housing with a marks kit, and add a bundy offset transfer case and the combo will be about 1700 long.

Then just move the front and rear diffs appart another 12inches and Voila!

If only it were that easy :oops:

Post by **Damo** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 2:51 pm

Gutless wrote:If you are going to the trouble of fitting the sr20, why not just fit the commy V6 and auto. A new tunnel is required, and I believe the negine is slightly shrter than the inline4 sr20?? Could be wrong. I will be posting picks of this conversion over the next 3 months as I am doing it to my LWB now.

BTW, the commy V6 and auto are 1350 long. Replace the extension housing with a marks kit, and add a bundy offset transfer case and the combo will be about 1700 long.

Then just move the front and rear diffs appart another 12inches and Voila!

If only it were that easy

That makes for a bloody long zook, what wheelbase is this thing going to end up at?

I think you'll need bigger tyres :finger:

Post by **ZOOK60** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 5:25 pm

I was thinking bout the comm v6 but was worried bout the weight . Do i have to move the transfer beck? what do u use for engine mounts? does the sump clear the diff?

Post by **Beastmavster** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 5:45 pm

Damo wrote:
christover1 wrote:
oozuk wrote:with the sr20 auto what needed to be done to make fit besides mounts ??
didi the transfer need to be moved ??? did it fit in the trans tunnell ??

bigsteve is correct, lots of work, but sr20de engines are cheap n powerful and reliable...anything easy to fit, will cost more to buy, law of supply and demand, with murphy's law thrown in to

Aint that the truth good one Christover

I'd go CA18 first - cheaper, lighter and a bit more compact (although the manifold is bit nasty).

If you want really cheap Datto A14/A15 and auto,

Post by **ZOOK60** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 6:06 pm

i was uder the impression that you had to use an engine from 92 or onwards ? please prove me rong !!!!! and yes i will be on a very very tight budjet . i want to use an older cerby engine but dont know if i will get it enginiered?

Post by **christover1** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 8:56 pm

jake lawson wrote:i was uder the impression that you had to use an engine from 92 or onwards ? please prove me rong !!!!! and yes i will be on a very very tight budjet . i want to use an older cerby engine but dont know if i will get it enginiered?

I think if you run gas only, some of the polution requirements change, ie not needed, so maybe you can use older engine on gas only? worth a look into. christover

Post by **bigsteve** » Wed Jan 07, 2004 5:34 am

jake lawson wrote: i will be on a very very tight budjet . i want to use an older cerby engine but dont know if i will get it enginiered?

Then go for a vit carby 1.6 & Auto, at least it looks suzuki if the boys in blue pop the bonet.

Post by **Gutless** » Wed Jan 07, 2004 1:41 pm

Damo wrote:
Gutless wrote:If you are going to the trouble of fitting the sr20, why not just fit the commy V6 and auto. A new tunnel is required, and I believe the negine is slightly shrter than the inline4 sr20?? Could be wrong. I will be posting picks of this conversion over the next 3 months as I am doing it to my LWB now.

BTW, the commy V6 and auto are 1350 long. Replace the extension housing with a marks kit, and add a bundy offset transfer case and the combo will be about 1700 long.

Then just move the front and rear diffs appart another 12inches and Voila!

If only it were that easy

That makes for a bloody long zook, what wheelbase is this thing going to end up at?

I think you'll need bigger tyres

It will be about 110 inches. Its currently 100. It saves me the trouble of having to run a reverse sump too, cos the diff is infront of the engine :lol:

37's are the minimum....

Post by **Gutless** » Wed Jan 07, 2004 1:49 pm

jake lawson wrote:i was uder the impression that you had to use an engine from 92 or onwards ? please prove me rong !!!!! and yes i will be on a very very tight budjet . i want to use an older cerby engine but dont know if i will get it enginiered?

I don't think you realise just how much it can cost to do a conversion. If you are on a tight budget, just leave it alone. Even if you go for the cheap carby motor, you will have to manufacture crossmembers, engine mounts, maybe cut your tranny tunnel, then you have to address the cooling system, exhaust, drive shafts, transfer location (if changed)....

Long story short.,...... if you don't have ENOUGH money to do it, you will just run out of funds and be stuck with a half finished rig, with no hope of it ever being certified.

Every engine conmversion is different, so choose a engine gearbox setup that will suit you the best and start saving.

Post by **grimbo** » Wed Jan 07, 2004 2:46 pm

why do you want to go auto? Is you r engine stuffed, does it need to replaced? it is really going to be worth it to swap in a whole new engine, go to the trouble of getting it engineered and legal. There will be a lot of money and time invested in it.

If your are after a nicer driving style for offroad what about just getting some lower gears for the t/case. In the long ru cheaper and easier.

Post by **ZOOK60** » Wed Jan 07, 2004 6:01 pm

Ive done egine conversions before so i know how much of a pain it can be . Also we are going back to one car and she dosnt drive manuals .
i would go for a 1.6 auto if i new how to run the jack shaft. I am going to have to get an engineers any way for the sping over . Ive had an auto forby before and i loved it

Post by **Dozoor** » Wed Jan 07, 2004 7:24 pm

If you go auto ,might need a bigger DONK, so throw most of it away and
Whack a V8 in :twisted:

Post by **toysuzi** » Mon Mar 01, 2004 6:21 pm

u do need to stay 92 or later. if u want to keep it cheap fit an import jimny auto now than later bore ur block out 1mm 40tho use gti pistons 10.0 comp port ur head.fit over size valves mild cam extractors etc n u have a good 1.6litre suzi =1590cc

Post by **ZOOK60** » Mon Mar 01, 2004 6:26 pm

i rang suzi four wreckers and they told me that the jimmny auto wont work because it runs off the computer?

Post by **thaoldman** » Mon Mar 01, 2004 6:59 pm

Mistake No.1 was ringing suzi four

Post by **ZOOK60** » Mon Mar 01, 2004 7:29 pm

i was waiting for somone to say that. well then fill me in on how it can be done . whats a jimmny box worh anyway?

Post by **ZOOK60** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:54 pm

answers? anyone?

Post by **greg** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:58 pm

jake lawson wrote:i was waiting for somone to say that. well then fill me in on how it can be done . whats a jimmny box worh anyway?

I've heard that Jimny autos are quite week and not considered to be something wise to upgrade too.

Anyone else heard that?

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which engine? has to be auto

which engine? has to be auto

Re: which engine? has to be auto

auto suzi

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