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"Mudbitsa" 1998 Coily build thread
"Mudbitsa" 1998 Coily build thread
1998 SJ80 Samurai Soft top build.
As i bought it. Already made up from 3 Samurai's:
Started stripping it out:
30mm Raised King springs:
Ready to go to the panel beaters:
Donor vehicle for doors and front clip:
New engine, G16a from 1993 Helly Hanson 5 door Escudo:
As i bought it. Already made up from 3 Samurai's:
Started stripping it out:
30mm Raised King springs:
Ready to go to the panel beaters:
Donor vehicle for doors and front clip:
New engine, G16a from 1993 Helly Hanson 5 door Escudo:
power steering and air cone where factory options on coil sierras, in new zealand they are even luckier and get jimny's imported from japan with all the goodies and also ones badges samurai from idonesia and stuff like that with all the goodies.
if everyone in australia ordered there sierras instead of just picked up from the lot i'm sure alot more would have had Power steering air con and single point injection.
coilies in japan even came out with a version of the g13bb with a different inlet manifold set up i think
if everyone in australia ordered there sierras instead of just picked up from the lot i'm sure alot more would have had Power steering air con and single point injection.
coilies in japan even came out with a version of the g13bb with a different inlet manifold set up i think
Front struts
Hi mate looks like a good build so far. I have only just sold my coily, it had a pedders lift on it about the same hight. I would just like to point out a couple of things that will help. The suspension mounts on the diffs are very week and need to be reinforced especially if you change to poly bushes for your caster correction. Also the top mount on the struts need to be streangthened it is only about 1.5-2mm thick, your strut will punch through the top eventually so while the front section is off do yourself a favour and make it strong. Good luck with the build and please keep the pics coming. Regards, Nick.
I have strengthend the strut tower tops with some big washers welded on there.
I dont think the problem is with the diff mounts being weak but, rather in the lack of flex in the chassis end of the trailing arm. i am looking into ways to fix this with a pin rather than a bush. The lack of rotation up there causes the diff to twist off its mounts.
Here are a few more update photos:
Back from the painters
Body lift
Bare engine bay
Inside the body tub. the cleanest it will ever be
Had to make a pipe from the air flow meter to the Samurai air box
I dont think the problem is with the diff mounts being weak but, rather in the lack of flex in the chassis end of the trailing arm. i am looking into ways to fix this with a pin rather than a bush. The lack of rotation up there causes the diff to twist off its mounts.
Here are a few more update photos:
Back from the painters
Body lift
Bare engine bay
Inside the body tub. the cleanest it will ever be
Had to make a pipe from the air flow meter to the Samurai air box
I have been looking under every 4x4 i find and have come to the conclusion that (cough) Land Rover has the best set up.
They seem to be the only vehicle with arms with a pin on the chassis end front and rear and nice long arms. They also seem to have a good A arm arrangement in the rear. Before i had my Coily i had a Jimny which when out in the bush hardly ever lifted a wheel so, i though the Coily suspension would be the same but, it aint so. We put this Coily on our ramp the other day with 30mm Kings and Ultima shocks with sway bar on and new 30 mud tyres and it only got the same distance up as a stock standard SJ413 on road tyres. Disappointing!
They seem to be the only vehicle with arms with a pin on the chassis end front and rear and nice long arms. They also seem to have a good A arm arrangement in the rear. Before i had my Coily i had a Jimny which when out in the bush hardly ever lifted a wheel so, i though the Coily suspension would be the same but, it aint so. We put this Coily on our ramp the other day with 30mm Kings and Ultima shocks with sway bar on and new 30 mud tyres and it only got the same distance up as a stock standard SJ413 on road tyres. Disappointing!
Radius arms
It does sound like a good idea to use the pin type radius arms, but it would be a fair bit of work. Have you checked out the arms that snake racing make http://www.snakeracing.com.au/zookdroparms.html there not that cheap but they are allready set with the correct caster angles. IMHO it would be a lot less hassle to put these in. When do you think it will be on the road? Regards, Nick.
We have our own range of soild castor corrected arms in 50 or 100mm raised as in the photo below.
Looking for something that will flex a little more.
I hope to have it on the road by the end of this week. Just waiting for the cab to come back from the painters.
It better be finished as we are off to the South Island next week to Zukfest 08 http://www.suzuki-4wd.co.nz/zukfest.html
Its nearly ready just got the gear lever boots to sort out and fit the cab and seatbelts.
Looking for something that will flex a little more.
I hope to have it on the road by the end of this week. Just waiting for the cab to come back from the painters.
It better be finished as we are off to the South Island next week to Zukfest 08 http://www.suzuki-4wd.co.nz/zukfest.html
Its nearly ready just got the gear lever boots to sort out and fit the cab and seatbelts.
The problem with radius arm suspension is that as the car articulates, the arms a really trying to twist the axle. It's a radius arm design that's the problem and no fancy bushes will fix it. In fact, jonny joints anywhere on a radius arm might actually reduce articulation.
Steve.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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