sd33turbo intercooler worth the work?

Post by **modifiedman** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 1:17 pm

is it worth intercooling a sd33t motor ? if so what size cooler & pipework ? anyone done it or with ideas & costs thanks

Post by **84mksd33t** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 3:29 pm

i have intercooled my sd33t swb.
front mount 550x180x60 with 2" piping and 3" into turbo - i used mild steel because the intake gets coated with a light coating of oil from the breather and this stops rust.
costs:
pipe work in mild steel $360 (inc labour and full fitment)
silicone joins and hose clamps $80
acid dipping and sand blasting of pipes to clean up burs etc $45
engine enamel paint $20
intercooler $125 from ebay
boost controller to compensate for boost drop $80 (turbo smart)
dyno tune for 10psi $125

pics

^ snorkel

inlet into turbo ^

piping around air con compressor ^

piping from drivers side of IC ^

piping front front on view showing turbo/inlet manifold ^

front mount ^

again ^

inlet front snorkel ^

inlet and breather hose redirection ^

this setup has dropped my egts by up to 100 degrees on long hard pulls. i am yet to exceed 450 degrees even with 15% more fuel being delivered.

hope this helps!!

Post by **nick bj40** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 5:10 pm

hey mate like your set up just a few questions

did u have a boost gauge before setup? and if yes does the boost come on sooner, later or the same???

does the i.c setup affect the responce of the engine?

thanks for the info

very apprecated

Post by **Sterlo** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 8:51 pm

very nice job there MK

Hope its worth it i just bought a GU RD28IT top mount cooler for the shute!!! Did you rebuild your motor or just paint it up??

Sterlo

Post by **jtraf** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 10:43 pm

nice work but........I don't think the pod will filter enough to keep motor alive in the long haul....it should have a decent filter setup under bonnet

Post by **84mksd33t** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 2:22 pm

looking into a truck filter setup under bonnet. pod filter is a temp solution and i wont be offroading in dusty conditions until the filter setup is done.

boost pressure is read after the intercooler...i have plugged the overboost valve and put a fitting in there for my boost gauge. i have increase the boost to compensate for pressure drop and then a little extra for some go

fuel to match of course

i also have a pyro gauge fitted, the probe is just after the dump.

i have reconditioned the head. might be coming off again so some porting might be in order, the bloody gasket didnt seal properly so now I have a leak between head and block at the rear.

Post by **modifiedman** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 7:01 pm

looks like a sweet job man thanks for the info and pictures to , will have a crack at it myself

Post by **84mksd33t** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 7:12 pm

good luck around the aircon compressor if you have one

was a bitch for the blokes who did mine to do...took an hour or more...and like 4 bends...its shaped to my aircon compressor lol
you will have to flip the intake bend around if you take the same pipe routes i did. also need to cut the wholes out next to radiator a little to make the piping fit and make sure you measure cooler up before ya buy it!!

make sure you run boost gauge after the cooler..pressure drops a bit due to the amount of piping. if u use mild steel, you MUST get it sandblasted, acid dipped and then spray it with engine enamel paint to stop rust and remove burs from the welds.

as i mentioned before, it will get coated lightly with oil on the inside due to breather and more than likley weak seals on ur turbo

failing that, u can always CRC each pipe as u assemble it for the last time!

keep this thread updated with pics of your progress! i am looking into a larger cooler for mine.

Post by **modifiedman** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 8:29 pm

thanks for the tips on the pipeing, i junked my aircon a while back so should make job easier , will order up a cooler next week & get some photos up when shes done i gotta do my head gasket to

did u get alot more power when you did your intercooler and had a dyno tune ? have you got a bigger exhaust ? i got a price for a 3 inch exhaust $ 1200 would want to be well worth it for that money !

Post by **84mksd33t** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 11:01 pm

i picked up 28% more power with dyno tune. running 10psi boost...i am @ full boost by around 2200rpm.

i run a 3" mandrel zorst from 2.5" dump to rear diff and then a few 3" press bends to get around the tank. cost me $330 full fitted, no mufflers.

the now have peak power from 2200rpm to 3600rpm.

i recently did my head gasket...didnt use any goo on the gasket and now its blowing oil out at the rear between block and head...even after retorqing all bolts :( gotta get it sussed soon!

is it a SWB you have? wouldnt pay more than $550 for a full mandrel on a SWB!

pics of dump, zorst, and 5" tip

Post by **Sterlo** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 8:38 pm

84mk

your oil leak from the rear.. Did you put the little nylon main oil gallery seal in the recess on the top of the block? Just a thought, i made that mistake. I used a diesel power australia head gasket, 3 layer stainless. The gallery seal was in with the injector washers and other little bits and of course being in a hurry missed it all together.

Thought it would be right 5 mins of running oil leaking out. Pull head off again clean all the oil up that was between the layers of the head gasket, fit nylon seal back together all sweet..

Just a thought mate, reading your post it sounded like you may not know where the oil is coming from

Serlo

Post by **84mksd33t** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 6:16 pm

hey sterlo, this may be the problem...do the head gaskets not come with them built in? or are all the nylon seals seperate? i seem to remember some little round seal type things laying around....do you have a pic of them and where they should go?

did you use a sealant of any type when replacing the head gasket etc?

how much was your head gasket? did you replace your head bolts? if so, how much?

Post by **Sterlo** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 8:49 pm

G;day MK
Sounds like its ur prob coz i left it out and mine did the same

The head gaskets for the SD i beleive dont have the seal in them, as there is a fair recess in the block. Maybe when you were cleaning the block surface with a scraper and went over it, it may not have even been noticable..

Sorry mate no pic of it. From memory mine was red and more of a square section O-ring 3-4mm thick 12-14mm in diameter. It sits at the rear of the block, more to the passenger side of the block, i think it next to the rear most left head bolt.

No no sealer on the gasket, bit of a no no on a layered steel gasket as all the water and oil holes (cept main oil gallery) had a rubber seal bonded to the head gasket. No didnt reaplace head bolts, but it is good measure to check for strech.

The "Diesel Power Aus" VRS set was about $200 i think. I had to get a new genuine head coz i couldnt get one that wasnt cracked.

How long has is been since you fitted the head gasket and what type is it?
Im a ruff bugger. I reused mine after puling head off again to fit oil O-ring, but then again it only ran for 10min... Hope this healps

Sterlo

Post by **modifiedman** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 6:28 pm

i got a 1985 ute ive been rebuilding for the last year & a half , now im at the stage of doing engine work & a few mods , my head gasket is leaking oil + water at the front not much, on the aircon compressor side so im thinking the head is probably cracked

anyone got a price on a new head ? good exhaust 84mk & alot cheaper to, ill do something similar keep up the good work

what brand turbo has yours got ? i think mine is a hitachi ? plus i got a schwitzer turbo of the original motor that melted 2 pistons ! did the sd33t come out with 2 different turbos ? thanks for your help

Post by **84mksd33t** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 6:50 pm

modifiedman - are you in perth? i can give you the good places to go to get the work done.
you have more than likely blown the head gasket...mine leaked in the same place and it had blown the whole gasket side out. had head checked out and pressure tested and not a crack in sight. if your sd33t has been run hot, you may have warmed the head...getting it machined will fix this up.

i believe i have the hitachi turbo. how much do you want for your schwitzer? schwitzer sounds like an aftermarket jobbie - turbotech in perth used schwitzers when doing conversions...u sure it wasnt an sd33 converted to an sd33t? compare the injector pumps

Post by **modifiedman** » Sat Sep 20, 2008 7:41 pm

hey man im in brisbane wish i was in perth, the work done on your truck is great & alot cheaper than brisbane , got another price for exhaust only 2 half inch though $450 ! might try & make 3inch myself .got a price to get head gasket done $1200 , will do it myself for that money i know how to. the original motor in my ute that the schwitzer turbo came of was the original turbo motor had the same pump and the rest of it so it must of had the turbo replaced at some stage , do you know if that is a better turbo ? if so will get it recoed & fit that .where abouts in perth are you? i was born in armidale & also lived in cannington moved when i was about 10 to melbourne .

Post by **Wish I had coils** » Sun Sep 21, 2008 7:43 pm

I got a price for a full 3"mandrel bent zorst for my lwb was $300 no mufflers, I thought that was a bit dear considering how simple the zorst is to make.
But i may take that back with a qoute of $1200, What are they useing gold plated exhaust

Post by **84mksd33t** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:01 pm

i think this should be put in the bible...

Post by **WICKED** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:07 pm

Power Gain =

Post by **84mksd33t** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:10 pm

ic allows lower EGTs which allows more fuel
i picked up 28% from 10psi + fuel

Post by **Rosey55** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 1:08 pm

where are you guys getting your EGT gauges from? what should i expect to pay? thanks

Post by **84mksd33t** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 1:22 pm

i was lucky and got brand new stewart warner pyro gauge and a 2nd hand sender unit for $100 from eBay. The VDO guages on evilbay arnt that bad, although I recommend getting a nut welded into the exhaust/dump and mounting the probe that way rather than using the hose clamps as a "quick fitment"

got it installed when i got my zorst done

I am looking to dump a heap more fuel into my SD33T as I am still getting 500ks a tank around town and EGT's wont go above 410 degrees when fully loaded on big pulls. before the tune/intercooler, my EGTs were around 550 when pulling up hills unloaded!! I have already picked up 28% more power so another 5-10% is do-able...just gotta find the time to book it in!

Post by **Dominator** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 2:41 pm

550C post turbo is getting pretty hot. I have a td42 running 10psi and a front monut and if i push it i can get it to about 560C or 570C but my pyro is mounted pre turbo in the exhaust manifold. you will loose around 150C thru the turbo.

Rosey55 wrote:where are you guys getting your EGT gauges from? what should i expect to pay? thanks

Talk to the hanko. whe did a group buy of digital ones from america and they wernt much over $100. He may still have 1 left. They are great and i have found a way for them to double as a auto turbo timer aswell.

Post by **84mksd33t** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 2:45 pm

Factory tune resulted in 550 max EGT's - Its done almost 300,000ks like this. From my experience, 500-550 post turbo is an acceptable EGT for the SD33T. What power is your TD42 putting out?

Post by **Dominator** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:02 pm

dunno. wanna get it dyno tuned when i get some coin.

Post by **84mksd33t** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:23 pm

So you have dumped extra fuel into it aswell as boost or just boost?

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sd33turbo intercooler worth the work?

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