Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Here http://www.trailerparts.net.au/ go to shop, hubs complete, hubs and they are down the bottom of them all (well close to the bottom) I got mine from here and it arrived nice and quick.
I used the same place i ordered one the other week they are in WA and I am in melbourne it cost me $94 for 2 of them they came with the flangeless hub a dust seal, 2 bearings and a cap well worth the money they are very well made
Be careful with the Trailerparts mob, i ordered through them and they sent me the hub, spindle and two catches via courier instead of normal post without even asking, which cost $120 for the courier alone. Of course i refused to pay, problem was i already paid for the parts via credit card, which they then used to charge the cost of courier to. They lucky i too lazy to do anythin about it.
PJ.zook wrote:Be careful with the Trailerparts mob, i ordered through them and they sent me the hub, spindle and two catches via courier instead of normal post without even asking, which cost $120 for the courier alone. Of course i refused to pay, problem was i already paid for the parts via credit card, which they then used to charge the cost of courier to. They lucky i too lazy to do anythin about it.
dude if you are that lazy, give me your credit card number
you dont mind if I bill you $120 every now and then??
I agree with Lukes, just buy any old hub and machine or cut and grind down the flange and weld straight to it. It is only a wheel carrier and I have made a few now this way with anything from 30 to 35 inch tryes hanging off them and a few have even been across the Simo and back not even a sign of it having a problem.
If you can be bothered cutting flange off, do it, but the flangeless one from the trailer joint is a nice and easy unit. Plus the fact that most if not all the flanged hubs are cast, whereas the flangeless one that the trailer joint sells isnt, or at least it didnt seem to be when i welded it, ie good thing.
I used a slam shut latch (same as a car door rated to minimum of 2500lb I think) A little more work to fit but I'm glad I did, it's been on there for about 1 1/2yrs now with no problems at all. Having it located under the arm means it's easy to get any mud out and keep it working smoothly.
Got it from concept latches in Vic (I made the handle)
I am going to make a carrier for my Zook soon but I want to keep it relatively lightweight.
Most people use a wheel hub which is quite heavy and way over the strength needed. Hub is designed to handle up to 1000kg whereas a spare wheel is only a fraction of that.
People use stub axles as they are easy but mainly because they dont rattle. If you use something like that farmgate hinge, it will most likely rattle and drive you bonkers.
want33s wrote:I am going to make a carrier for my Zook soon but I want to keep it relatively lightweight.
Most people use a wheel hub which is quite heavy and way over the strength needed. Hub is designed to handle up to 1000kg whereas a spare wheel is only a fraction of that.
Has anyone thought of using Farm gate hinges?
Jas.
As well as the possibility of rattling, you would want to make sure there is no chance the whole thing can just lift up and fall off!!!
I don't like hubs either though. I just bought a couple of grade 8 bolts, some tube and some nylon, and machined myself a couple of bushed pivots.
ISUZUROVER wrote:
As well as the possibility of rattling, you would want to make sure there is no chance the whole thing can just lift up and fall off!!!
I don't like hubs either though. I just bought a couple of grade 8 bolts, some tube and some nylon, and machined myself a couple of bushed pivots.
I would shim the gap with nylon/copper/brass and fit a spring on top with a washer and split pin to stop it lifting off by itself.
I don't think the pins would really be needed though as the catch that keeps it shut would also stop it from lifting.
Jas.
want33s wrote:I am going to make a carrier for my Zook soon but I want to keep it relatively lightweight.
Most people use a wheel hub which is quite heavy and way over the strength needed. Hub is designed to handle up to 1000kg whereas a spare wheel is only a fraction of that.
Has anyone thought of using Farm gate hinges?
Jas.
As well as the possibility of rattling, you would want to make sure there is no chance the whole thing can just lift up and fall off!!!
I don't like hubs either though. I just bought a couple of grade 8 bolts, some tube and some nylon, and machined myself a couple of bushed pivots.
Used 3 of these, one inverted to stop it from lifting
to make a pushbike carrier for my sisters combi a few years back, 2 of the 3 had weld failures on the hinge, NOT my welds, the top hinge broke away completely and the middle one had a fatigue crack in it - so if three mountain bikes can do that, imagine what the stress load of a spare wheel can do - I think the farm gate hinge will fail as they aren't designed to be shock loaded, just my opinion though.
I wish my lawn was EMO, then it would cut itself...
want33s wrote:I am going to make a carrier for my Zook soon but I want to keep it relatively lightweight.
Most people use a wheel hub which is quite heavy and way over the strength needed. Hub is designed to handle up to 1000kg whereas a spare wheel is only a fraction of that.
Has anyone thought of using Farm gate hinges?
Jas.
I have used tube over a bar and at the top is a bolt through a bracket holding it down, after 6 odd years its still fine and doesn't rattle.
For the latch I made a custom sliding over centre lock which hooks to a bar on the tailgate (it doesn't carry any weight), this means to open the tailgate I don't need to open the carrier first. see pics for a better explanation.
The bracket at the top is probably not needed
Door open (note sliding latch position on bar)
Door closed (note sliding latch position on bar)
Carrier open
I have just use light pipe for the frame.
