So I have a bracket, a compressor and all that bit is sorted.
I need a few lines or something, and a few miscellaneous parts.
I have a radiator piece and a dryer (looks like a cylinder/can)
then I have hoses which go form there into a box i bought which goes in behind my dash, i have fitted that and plumbed it to my vents....
Tell me its not that simple. I have yet to work out how to switch it on + electrical details, so any help is grouse.
If anyone has a basic diagram, just so i can work it out in my head. that would be unreal!!
cheers
BJ
What all do i need from start to finish, and how does it work?
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Fitting aircon to a vehicle that didnt have factory aircon.
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Fitting aircon to a vehicle that didnt have factory aircon.
hands and mums dont count!!!
Have a look at the web site http://www.howstuffworks.com/
I am about to install an under the dash system in my HJ60. Using all original components in the engine bay, it is a lot simpler to install an under dash (aftermarket) system electrically, since if I went for a second hand original system, I'd need to replace half my wiring loom and the complete air conditioning/heater box.
From my understanding, the controller is simply turning the compressor off when the evaporator (inside the vehicle) reaches a set (low) temperature, and then back on when it reaches a high temp setting.
Hope this helps.
I am about to install an under the dash system in my HJ60. Using all original components in the engine bay, it is a lot simpler to install an under dash (aftermarket) system electrically, since if I went for a second hand original system, I'd need to replace half my wiring loom and the complete air conditioning/heater box.
From my understanding, the controller is simply turning the compressor off when the evaporator (inside the vehicle) reaches a set (low) temperature, and then back on when it reaches a high temp setting.
Hope this helps.
BJ, the little "can" bit will be the receiver dryer and you'll need a new one once you get the system all plumbed up and sealed (before regassing it). From my understanding it contains dessicant (spelling?) and traps any moisture in the pipes to prevent problems. You may want to look into what is necessary to make it perform better on the new gas R134A rather than using an alternative for the old R12 gas (depends on how old the system is?) I know the oil in the compressor needs to be changed, plus the expansion valve (under dash) is different for R134A and R12.
As far as the electrics go, I've just been doing a lot of work on my Feroza's aircon ('92 model) and it actually has an electronic control box that determines when the compressor cuts in and out. So depending on what vehicle you're working on there may be lots of wiring involved.
There should also be a solenoid or something to increase the idle speed when the aircon is switched on. If it's an EFI engine then the aircon "ON" signal is normally routed through the ECU as well........
If it's on a carby engine then it should be a lot simpler.
As far as the electrics go, I've just been doing a lot of work on my Feroza's aircon ('92 model) and it actually has an electronic control box that determines when the compressor cuts in and out. So depending on what vehicle you're working on there may be lots of wiring involved.
There should also be a solenoid or something to increase the idle speed when the aircon is switched on. If it's an EFI engine then the aircon "ON" signal is normally routed through the ECU as well........
If it's on a carby engine then it should be a lot simpler.
David
It is for a 1988 HJ75, 2H diesel, I got the "BOX" and it has t lines coming out the front and two pplugs on the back, so i have bolted him in and hooked it up. I am told you need to replace the heater, but i would doubt that, seeing this mounts right NEXT to the heater as a separate unit. Please don't say i need to replace the heater......... Got the plugs hooked up to a little black box which has a bigger plug coming out of it and has two controls, one for RPM, and one for high low? found where that plug goes into the loom, and they are two different plugs, so i will work on that when the time comes....
I got one extra vent too, it goes to the drivers crotch when driving along, so thats pretty important.
I got the hoses from the front of the mgical "BOX" to the grille, there i need to bolt the radiator thingy, and the can, and one line back to the compressor (getting another soon) then i will have a system, just need electrics out to the compressor i guess, and ones from inside.... to the switch, (which i have and plugged straight into my loom) and the face plate, and all that is done.
I got one extra vent too, it goes to the drivers crotch when driving along, so thats pretty important.
I got the hoses from the front of the mgical "BOX" to the grille, there i need to bolt the radiator thingy, and the can, and one line back to the compressor (getting another soon) then i will have a system, just need electrics out to the compressor i guess, and ones from inside.... to the switch, (which i have and plugged straight into my loom) and the face plate, and all that is done.
hands and mums dont count!!!
Expansion valve? Please be in the big grey box!!
1988 system, for examples sake. Will be setup on new gas, if i ever figure it out!
I do not mind if its pumping cold air whenever its on, i can turn the heater on when it gets too cold.
How much $$ for a new receiver dryer?
1988 system, for examples sake. Will be setup on new gas, if i ever figure it out!
I do not mind if its pumping cold air whenever its on, i can turn the heater on when it gets too cold.
How much $$ for a new receiver dryer?
hands and mums dont count!!!
Sounds like most of the wiring is taken care of???
I'm guessing your compressor will only have two wires coming out of it to activate the magnetic clutch (my Feroza's got four- long story.....)
The expansion valve should be in the box under your dash. Mine was farked in the Feroza, so when I got the replacement I got the R134A version. Your old one will still be OK with the new gas from the info I've heard- it just won't be quite as cold. The expansion valve allows the compressed aircon gas to expand, which causes the gas to get cold and that gives you the cold air via a little radiator thingy that the incoming air flows through.
My heater is separate to the aircon "box" under the dash, so don't panic!
Your's is most likely OK.
Receiver dryers vary depending on the type of vehicle. Lots of vehicles have different fittings and different receiver dryers!
Take your old one off and take it into an aircon place and they should be able to help out. If it's a common type it should be under $50. Keep the new one sealed until you're ready to get it gassed- maybe even let the place that's doing the gassing fit it (they'll need to put the oil into your compressor anyway).
I'm guessing your compressor will only have two wires coming out of it to activate the magnetic clutch (my Feroza's got four- long story.....)
The expansion valve should be in the box under your dash. Mine was farked in the Feroza, so when I got the replacement I got the R134A version. Your old one will still be OK with the new gas from the info I've heard- it just won't be quite as cold. The expansion valve allows the compressed aircon gas to expand, which causes the gas to get cold and that gives you the cold air via a little radiator thingy that the incoming air flows through.
My heater is separate to the aircon "box" under the dash, so don't panic!
Your's is most likely OK.
Receiver dryers vary depending on the type of vehicle. Lots of vehicles have different fittings and different receiver dryers!
Take your old one off and take it into an aircon place and they should be able to help out. If it's a common type it should be under $50. Keep the new one sealed until you're ready to get it gassed- maybe even let the place that's doing the gassing fit it (they'll need to put the oil into your compressor anyway).David
what Ruff suggests is a damn good idea.
Everything (hoses, pipes, condenser, compressor, etc) should be totally sealed until it needs to be used, and everything has to be totally clean and dry on assembly.
Moisture is the big killer in any conventional air con/refrigeration system, and that includes the moisture present in the air !
It reacts with the refrigerant to create acids, not good for the life of the system, reacts with the oil, particularly if it's Polyolester, to create even more acids, freezes the orifice in the expansion device, etc, etc.
It would be a good idea, regardless of oil type (mineral, PAG or POE) to have the oil changed prior to fitting.
You will also need a new drier/receiver, if the one you have has already been used.
Of course once everything has been installed, it needs to be leak tested, evacuated and charged with refrigerant by someone that knows what they are doing.
Not trying to scare you, just make you aware
Rick.
Everything (hoses, pipes, condenser, compressor, etc) should be totally sealed until it needs to be used, and everything has to be totally clean and dry on assembly.
Moisture is the big killer in any conventional air con/refrigeration system, and that includes the moisture present in the air !
It reacts with the refrigerant to create acids, not good for the life of the system, reacts with the oil, particularly if it's Polyolester, to create even more acids, freezes the orifice in the expansion device, etc, etc.
It would be a good idea, regardless of oil type (mineral, PAG or POE) to have the oil changed prior to fitting.
You will also need a new drier/receiver, if the one you have has already been used.
Of course once everything has been installed, it needs to be leak tested, evacuated and charged with refrigerant by someone that knows what they are doing.
Not trying to scare you, just make you aware
Rick.
well, if you do get moisture in the system, all you need to do on the minimum, is a triple evacuation,
where you
1 pull vacume on the system
2 charge with nitrolgen
and repeat till you have done the process at least 3 times,
upon the last, pull a vacume, and break vacume with required refrigerant.
Shawn
where you
1 pull vacume on the system
2 charge with nitrolgen
and repeat till you have done the process at least 3 times,
upon the last, pull a vacume, and break vacume with required refrigerant.
Shawn
As suggested earlier. It would be a good idea to drain the compressor and add the correct amount of oil to it. Some of the oil will have been lost during degassing and removal of components. The reciever drier will need replacing and replace all o-rings. Also it would be a good idea to flush out the system (except compressor and RD) if it has been open to atmos. for a while. Use proper A\C system flush and nitrogen. If it is a factory type kit all wiring should plug into the loom. Some late model Toyota systems use a thermistor rather than a thermostat. This will need to work or the system will freeze up. After connecting system components vac the system, this removes moisture and is a good leak detector. And regas with R-134a....
Hope some of this helps....
Hope some of this helps....
RUFF wrote:DAZZ wrote:Its a pity you guys are so far away!!!! I work on A\C systems every day. Just on Earthmoving equiptment, but its all the same!!!
yeah so do I and thats why i Sugggested it. But i work on trucks. Mostly New.
BJ, now theres an idea!!!
Just get Sam to fit a ICEPACK in the tray for you!
POS wrote:RUFF wrote:DAZZ wrote:Its a pity you guys are so far away!!!! I work on A\C systems every day. Just on Earthmoving equiptment, but its all the same!!!
yeah so do I and thats why i Sugggested it. But i work on trucks. Mostly New.
BJ, now theres an idea!!!
Just get Sam to fit a ICEPACK in the tray for you!
They are a good thing.... Had to service one the other week. Damm cold too!!!!
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