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Welding.
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Welding.
Anyone out there ever welded or had welded a hair line crack in a diff housing before??
Did it hold??
Did it hold??
most are cast steel.Struth wrote:I am not sure but I reckon a diff housing would be cast, so a particular type of welding rod might be required.
But you could always give it a little grind and hit it with a ferrocraft or the MIG.
Cheers
Special rods i believe, good preparation to remove any grease, and also using heat blankets to make it cool slowly.
think he is talking housing, not third member. most housings are mild steel, all third members are cast.
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CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
If its the housing just up it with the mig, people weld brackets and stuff to them all the time. My ladder bar and shock mounts haven't broken off yet and they have been on there for about 4-5 years. Not bad for a chippie
cheers Dan
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Don't lay a bead longer than an inch or so at a time as it may warp the housing.
Depending on the location of the crack it may also be a good idea to grind it out a bit to ensure you get sufficient penetration.
Depending on the location of the crack it may also be a good idea to grind it out a bit to ensure you get sufficient penetration.
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Yeh fellers its the housing. One of the seem welds on the left of where the diff gears ect are.
Was readin a few things saying a mig wont hold it as mig welds are more porus then stick welds.
Might go ok with a plate or something over it
If ya wanna give it a go Sloshy let me know. And what ya drink
Was readin a few things saying a mig wont hold it as mig welds are more porus then stick welds.
Might go ok with a plate or something over it
If ya wanna give it a go Sloshy let me know. And what ya drink
Thanks mate. Might have to grind it out a little then drill each end of the crack to stop it spreading. (No I dont know what Im talking about, nor do I know how to weld )v840 wrote:Don't lay a bead longer than an inch or so at a time as it may warp the housing.
Depending on the location of the crack it may also be a good idea to grind it out a bit to ensure you get sufficient penetration.
Im at Redland Bay. Bit far maybe?? But give it a good clean and weld it at a fairly low heat so the inside coating doesnt flake off. If your really keen its not a bad idea to change the oil after you weld it to get out any flaky bits.
Also the idea of drilling the crack ends is cos it stops the crack spreading because the load is not focused at the point of the crack. Probably not needed but if you want to be safe it cant hurt.
Also the idea of drilling the crack ends is cos it stops the crack spreading because the load is not focused at the point of the crack. Probably not needed but if you want to be safe it cant hurt.
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Nooo don't drill holes. Grind it right out, use metho etc to clean the grind, then run a nice hot bead, grind out again slightly and then weld over that....Fmx_Aus wrote:Thanks mate. Might have to grind it out a little then drill each end of the crack to stop it spreading. (No I dont know what Im talking about, nor do I know how to weld )v840 wrote:Don't lay a bead longer than an inch or so at a time as it may warp the housing.
Depending on the location of the crack it may also be a good idea to grind it out a bit to ensure you get sufficient penetration.
If you don't drill it, then you'll never fuse the end of the cracks together and it'll continue to grow.highwaychook wrote:Nooo don't drill holes. Grind it right out, use metho etc to clean the grind, then run a nice hot bead, grind out again slightly and then weld over that....Fmx_Aus wrote:Thanks mate. Might have to grind it out a little then drill each end of the crack to stop it spreading. (No I dont know what Im talking about, nor do I know how to weld )v840 wrote:Don't lay a bead longer than an inch or so at a time as it may warp the housing.
Depending on the location of the crack it may also be a good idea to grind it out a bit to ensure you get sufficient penetration.
It'll probabaly still last several years, but drill it past the end and it'll be good for a lot longer.
welding
exactly kiwibacon you must drill the ends of the crack before you weld and warm the area to about 150c and just let air cool it will be fine. Mig welding is not porous and will be fine, christ knows who told you that story, i own an engineering business and beleive me they are fine. Mig wire is rated at about 70,000 lbs per square inch and is equivalent to low hydrogen. godd luck cheers
i dont naturaly look this bad work done it to me
Re: welding
Probably someone who left the gas turned off.hollywood wrote:Mig welding is not porous and will be fine, christ knows who told you that story,
Re: welding
Been there, done that!KiwiBacon wrote:
Probably someone who left the gas turned off.
Re: welding
Me too.lump_a_charcoal wrote:Been there, done that!KiwiBacon wrote:
Probably someone who left the gas turned off.
Lightweight welding I call it. Honeycomb.
Re: welding
KiwiBacon wrote:Me too.lump_a_charcoal wrote:Been there, done that!KiwiBacon wrote:
Probably someone who left the gas turned off.
Me three.
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|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
mate make shore you get somone that knows what they are doing.. it is very easy to warp your housing whem welding on a truss. weld it slowly, small runs of weld, stop and let it cool..weld again and then let it cool.. so it does not heat up to much.Fmx_Aus wrote:Thanks a heap bud. That looks bloody great.
If there is anyone around my area Ripley/Ipswich that can weld let me know.
If not, I will duck down to the welder at Yamanto and see what they can do. Just worried as to what they will charge
Thanks again
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